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Thread: Ca Finish
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31st December 2015, 10:31 AM #1
Ca Finish
Hello everyone
have some shed time ATM, made the altermate woodworkers oppps (thumb in tablesaw) so they dont think it is a good idea if i am undergound till it heals
got a question / idea that i would like some help with if possiable
the wet season has arrived here in Isa hence the humidty is up
as a rule i use CA to finish my pens but thur the wet season i have a hell of a time getting the finish to come out right
was wondering if i put my blanks in the oven at a low heat for a time before applying the Ca would this make life easier
i have thought of trying a differant finish ie shellawaxglow (to get away from the plastic look of CA) but from what iv read it might not stand up to everyday use like CA, please correct me if i am wrong
thanks in advance for any feedback
cheers Tony
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31st December 2015, 01:15 PM #2
What method are you using?
Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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31st December 2015, 01:51 PM #3
I have gone away from using CA as a finish for my pens and have been using wipe on poly. I usually apply thin coats over several days.
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31st December 2015, 02:18 PM #4
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31st December 2015, 02:21 PM #5
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31st December 2015, 04:05 PM #6
Maddog, I am in Cairns, high humidity, but using CA finish ok, mainly three coats of thin CA for cheaper pens, then lightly rub down with 0000 steel wool by hand, and Plastx polish. Amos
Good, better, best, never let it rest;
Til your good is better, and your
better, best.
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31st December 2015, 04:07 PM #7
Maddog, I am in Cairns, high humidity, but using CA finish ok, mainly three coats of thin CA for cheaper pens, then lightly rub down with 0000 steel wool by hand, and Plastx polish. Amos
One thing I have taken from Soundman, I have resorted to applying the CA by hand, length wise without the lathe spinning, ie just hand turning. AmosGood, better, best, never let it rest;
Til your good is better, and your
better, best.
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31st December 2015, 06:08 PM #8
My question related to how you where applying.
These days I use a cotton bud and apply with the lathe stoped and hand turn..and I only use thin CA and I do not use accelerator.
One thing that must be understood ... a good CA finish is not fast.
the various friction polishes are way faster.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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31st December 2015, 06:34 PM #9
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31st December 2015, 06:37 PM #10
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31st December 2015, 08:19 PM #11
I don't consider "coats", I don't look for build and yeh I do rub thru on all but the last few applications. as you would with any other high order timbe finish.
I have seen and heard some of the methods people use to apply CA ..... and the methods seem to defy the basic rules of finishing.
I think I start much earlier than others with the CA .... on some timber my first application is before my final cut and before my first sanding. I'm looking to stabilise the timber, fill the cracks and voids and get a good bond to the timber.
Often my first application is straight out of the dropper.
I don't claim to be a CA expert, but I get the result that I want after changing my method to what I currently do.
I gave up on the plastic bag/rubber glove method very early.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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31st December 2015, 10:20 PM #12
Tony, I only rub very lightly, and each time I look and sometimes I may apply a coat of thick CA, depends on the wood also, I haven't been using accelerator, so sometimes I just let the lathe spin till it dries(cures). Sometimes I have let the blank sit after the coats , for 24 hrs then lightly rub down. Sometimes the CA goes on so smooth that it hardly needs a rub down?! there are many variables.If you have a fairly good CA finish, you could try a coat of Shellawax Glow, looks great, and if it wears away the CA underneath tends to make up for it!? Amos
Good, better, best, never let it rest;
Til your good is better, and your
better, best.
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31st December 2015, 10:48 PM #13
thanks for the feedback gents
it gives me somthing to work with
will let you know how i get on
cheers Tony
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1st January 2016, 01:11 AM #14
I would not put shelawax over CA ..... its just not meant to work that way.
If I want a high gloss finish I will wet sant to 1200 then use compound ..... that will give a pretty much mirror finish ...... if you rub thru it will be very obvious and you have to go back to 400 ish to get a reliable key.
If I wanta satin finish I will rub thru to 1200, go wit some EEE ultrashin and some auto polish.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
-
2nd January 2016, 08:43 PM #15
I sand to only 600 at ~900 speed, I have found any finer can cause delaminating, and on Delron cone bushes. Any oily type woods should be wiped down with metho/spirits before applying the CA, although I tend to do this anyway, to remove dust etc. I then apply 2-3 coats of thin at 400, before 5-10 coats of medium or thick at 900, removing any ribs with XXXX wool every 3 coats. I apply the CA with a double layer of paper towel, over some closed cell foam to protect my fingers. I use a fair bit of CA, ie not just a few drops like some others, but it is a fine line between too much and too little. I rub the CA with the soaked paper towel until it is almost set, too early and you get ribs, too late and the paper towels sticks (it is a real timing thing). I do not use accelerator for thin, but use it for the med/thick after 3 coats before sanding back with XXXX wool.
When I am happy with the coatings and the overall dia is ~0.5mm over size I score the coating at the ends with a very sharp tool (similar to a tiny skew) before removing the blank to do final end squaring and sealing the ends with thin CA. Then I wet sand blank with micromesh before polishing with plastic polish (apply and buff off). My resultant coating is 0.5-1.0mm thick that is ideal for multi medium pens that I do, to help bond/strengthen them, whilst providing a deep gloss finish.
I have not found high humidity causes major issues, but it can cause thin CA to go milky if applied to thick or if any ponding occurs. It does however reduce working times, so you need to apply it more quickly.
Do NOT us shellowax or similar over the CA, the heat required can cause issues with CA. There is no single right way of applying CA, everyone has to develop a method that is right for them, and I have seen many many ways to do it (not all successful though LOL).
I do still intend calling in whilst passing your way some time this year on my way, or way back, from Darwin and happy to give demo. But that is what I said last year LOL
CheersNeil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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