Thread: Ca Finish

What method are you using?

I have gone away from using CA as a finish for my pens and have been using wipe on poly. I usually apply thin coats over several days.

Originally Posted by soundman

What method are you using?

soundman
method, lathe speed at 300rpm
sand to 600/800
3coats of thin to seal then 5-6 coats thick
then micro if things havent gone pair shaped by then

Originally Posted by Christos

I have gone away from using CA as a finish for my pens and have been using wipe on poly. I usually apply thin coats over several days.

Christos
have tried dipping method etc takes way too long for my liking
hence why i use Ca time frame better suits me
i only have problems during the wetseason

Maddog, I am in Cairns, high humidity, but using CA finish ok, mainly three coats of thin CA for cheaper pens, then lightly rub down with 0000 steel wool by hand, and Plastx polish. Amos

Maddog, I am in Cairns, high humidity, but using CA finish ok, mainly three coats of thin CA for cheaper pens, then lightly rub down with 0000 steel wool by hand, and Plastx polish. Amos
One thing I have taken from Soundman, I have resorted to applying the CA by hand, length wise without the lathe spinning, ie just hand turning. Amos

My question related to how you where applying.

These days I use a cotton bud and apply with the lathe stoped and hand turn..and I only use thin CA and I do not use accelerator.

One thing that must be understood ... a good CA finish is not fast.

the various friction polishes are way faster.

cheers

Originally Posted by PenTurner

Maddog, I am in Cairns, high humidity, but using CA finish ok, mainly three coats of thin CA for cheaper pens, then lightly rub down with 0000 steel wool by hand, and Plastx polish. Amos
One thing I have taken from Soundman, I have resorted to applying the CA by hand, length wise without the lathe spinning, ie just hand turning. Amos

Amos
thanks will give it a try just turning by hand
only 3 coats ? you dont rub thru at all

thanks Tony

Originally Posted by soundman

My question related to how you where applying.

These days I use a cotton bud and apply with the lathe stoped and hand turn..and I only use thin CA and I do not use accelerator.

One thing that must be understood ... a good CA finish is not fast.


the various friction polishes are way faster.

cheers

Soundman
i use finger of nitrile glove to apply ca
works in normal season
am going to try your way by hand turning while applying
cheers Tony

I don't consider "coats", I don't look for build and yeh I do rub thru on all but the last few applications. as you would with any other high order timbe finish.

I have seen and heard some of the methods people use to apply CA ..... and the methods seem to defy the basic rules of finishing.

I think I start much earlier than others with the CA .... on some timber my first application is before my final cut and before my first sanding. I'm looking to stabilise the timber, fill the cracks and voids and get a good bond to the timber.

Often my first application is straight out of the dropper.

I don't claim to be a CA expert, but I get the result that I want after changing my method to what I currently do.

I gave up on the plastic bag/rubber glove method very early.

cheers

Tony, I only rub very lightly, and each time I look and sometimes I may apply a coat of thick CA, depends on the wood also, I haven't been using accelerator, so sometimes I just let the lathe spin till it dries(cures). Sometimes I have let the blank sit after the coats , for 24 hrs then lightly rub down. Sometimes the CA goes on so smooth that it hardly needs a rub down?! there are many variables.If you have a fairly good CA finish, you could try a coat of Shellawax Glow, looks great, and if it wears away the CA underneath tends to make up for it!? Amos

thanks for the feedback gents
it gives me somthing to work with
will let you know how i get on
cheers Tony

I would not put shelawax over CA ..... its just not meant to work that way.

If I want a high gloss finish I will wet sant to 1200 then use compound ..... that will give a pretty much mirror finish ...... if you rub thru it will be very obvious and you have to go back to 400 ish to get a reliable key.

If I wanta satin finish I will rub thru to 1200, go wit some EEE ultrashin and some auto polish.

cheers

Originally Posted by maddog 62

method, lathe speed at 300rpm
sand to 600/800
3coats of thin to seal then 5-6 coats thick
then micro if things havent gone pair shaped by then

I sand to only 600 at ~900 speed, I have found any finer can cause delaminating, and on Delron cone bushes. Any oily type woods should be wiped down with metho/spirits before applying the CA, although I tend to do this anyway, to remove dust etc. I then apply 2-3 coats of thin at 400, before 5-10 coats of medium or thick at 900, removing any ribs with XXXX wool every 3 coats. I apply the CA with a double layer of paper towel, over some closed cell foam to protect my fingers. I use a fair bit of CA, ie not just a few drops like some others, but it is a fine line between too much and too little. I rub the CA with the soaked paper towel until it is almost set, too early and you get ribs, too late and the paper towels sticks (it is a real timing thing). I do not use accelerator for thin, but use it for the med/thick after 3 coats before sanding back with XXXX wool.

When I am happy with the coatings and the overall dia is ~0.5mm over size I score the coating at the ends with a very sharp tool (similar to a tiny skew) before removing the blank to do final end squaring and sealing the ends with thin CA. Then I wet sand blank with micromesh before polishing with plastic polish (apply and buff off). My resultant coating is 0.5-1.0mm thick that is ideal for multi medium pens that I do, to help bond/strengthen them, whilst providing a deep gloss finish.

I have not found high humidity causes major issues, but it can cause thin CA to go milky if applied to thick or if any ponding occurs. It does however reduce working times, so you need to apply it more quickly.

Do NOT us shellowax or similar over the CA, the heat required can cause issues with CA. There is no single right way of applying CA, everyone has to develop a method that is right for them, and I have seen many many ways to do it (not all successful though LOL).

I do still intend calling in whilst passing your way some time this year on my way, or way back, from Darwin and happy to give demo. But that is what I said last year LOL

Cheers