Thread: CA and PPG Headache problem

I haven't used copper fittings so I can't comment of a finish to stop the colour leeching, but I use EEE and Shellawax Glow on most of my pens now as it's nice and quick and leaves a natural timber feel to the pen (not that there is anything wrong with CA). The very first pen I turned was finished with EEE and Glow and I have not had any staining or adverse wear problem...and that was almost 3 years ago now. Natural oils from your hand will add some lustre to the finish, I use my pen every day and it looks even better (more character) than when it was new.

Paul

Hey Plantagenon. EEE is NOT a finish, it is a cutting /sanding compound, also called Rotten Stone. You sand to around 800 then EEE the blank, then several Coates of Shellawax, using a small amount of pressure on the applicator rag or pad to create heat friction, then a couple of Coates of Traditional Wax, and you will have a semi gloss silky smooth natural long lasting finish. Check out U Beaut finishes web site !.

Without CA or WOP the finish will wear off, Amos

I did my first pen with organoil hard burnishing oil
It soaks in and then is burnished - still looks good - but not shiny like ca
Have you tried Rustins plastic coating. Description Here

CA should be applied in a well ventilated area. I usually wear a mask too and a fan to drive the fumes away from me.

Have you considered a water based finish like Cabot's Crystal Clear or Clear Floor? There have virtually no fumes, they dry quickly and are reasonably hard.

Most of the floors in our house are finished with Clear Floor. The oldest are two bedrooms done fourteen years ago. They still look pretty good after three children so the finish should survive on a pen.

Originally Posted by Pariss

then a couple of Coates of Traditional Wax, and you will have a semi gloss silky smooth natural long lasting finish.

just an FYI .. when you say traditional wax, I assume you mean a bar of hard wax?

I know people who will use a paste wax and do 'several coats' .. not realizing that
paste wax contains it's own solvent. That solvent removes each previous coat of wax,
so when you put on "3 coats" you're really removing and replacing the first coat every
time. Not that I've ever done this myself ... no, not me!

Originally Posted by NewLondon88

just an FYI .. when you say traditional wax, I assume you mean a bar of hard wax?

I know people who will use a paste wax and do 'several coats' .. not realizing that
paste wax contains it's own solvent. That solvent removes each previous coat of wax,
so when you put on "3 coats" you're really removing and replacing the first coat every
time. Not that I've ever done this myself ... no, not me!

Here ya go TRADITIONAL WAX

Remember some timbers can still look good without a finish. I regularly leave ebony and African blackwood bare because the oil content within gives them their own sheen.

Light coloured timbers normally suffer if unfinished, although my daily writer is olivewood and the finish is long since worn away. It still looks good. Again, oily timber though.

For finishing without the headache, I still suggest lacquer or polyurethane but wear a good mask when doing it (not a disposable as they're generally insufficient IMHO). It'll cost a bit but in the long run it should cut the fumes down and help with you finishing with chemicals. I wear a 3m filter built to handle chemical fumes and it always works.

I can't handle CA for finishing so will never use it. I have used the hard pen wax sticks from Carbatec and flannellette held against the turned pen blanks to burnish them. I've had no problem with the finish coming off.... I use the shavings to buff the pens first as well.

Marg.

Originally Posted by Pariss

Here ya go TRADITIONAL WAX

Thanks, Pariss!
Reading the MSDS, half of the product is the solvents. So I'd say putting on a second
coat would take off the first coat.
But .. if applying three times is working for someone...