Thread: CA setting too fast

Yes.

Les

I tend to use polyurethane glue for timber pens and epoxy or hybrid or resin pens. I found the ca set a bit quickly (as you have found) and when turning to a finap size, I've had the ca fail on me a couple of times. Nothing more frustrating. ... so these days I tend to drill/glue up a few blanks, then leave them overnight to set.

Just a thought

Gab

The best thing you could do is keep the CA for finishing, and move to 2-part epoxy for gluing your tubes in.
You will have less issues that way.

Thanks for the responses. I think I will try some 5 minute epoxy on my next project and maybe drill and glue a few at the same time.

I stopped using CA for the same reason. Trying to get even coverage between the blank and the tube with CA is too hard even if the blank is cool. On some highly figured blanks it can also allow big chips to pop out when the blank is almost finished ruining the whole effort. Don't ask how I know this
Enjoy your penmaking.
Cheers, Ian

Originally Posted by captainkirk

Thanks for the responses. I think I will try some 5 minute epoxy on my next project and maybe drill and glue a few at the same time.

I'd steer clear of 5 minute epoxy. Use the 30 minute or 1 hour stuff. If it is at all warm, the epoxy will go off faster so you will get less than 5 minutes to get it all sorted. I use the 30 minute stuff. If you use the longer setting epoxy, you will definitely have enough time to get the tubes in and glue spread properly. You will even have enough time to do a few at the same time. I have tried the 5 minute stuff and find, particularly in the summer, that I can only get 1 pen tube in before the epoxy starts going off. Don't know about you but I tend to prepare a number of blanks at once so the faster epoxy means mixing new epoxy for each tube. Also, regardless of the glue you use, leave them overnight to fully cure before you trim and turn.

Sika Poly (Bunnings have it) is good for two reasons: (1) it expands as it dries so it fills in any holes on the inside of the blank; and (2) when dry it remains elastic so is shock absorbing to a degree.

It does take around 12 hours to dry properly before you begin to turn the blanks and you need to clamp over the ends of the blanks when you insert the glued tube as it will push the tube out when expanding. I wrap the blanks in cling wrap and put a clamp over the ends.

Originally Posted by captainkirk

Thanks for the responses. I think I will try some 5 minute epoxy on my next project and maybe drill and glue a few at the same time.

When I first started I also used the 5 minute epoxy. You have to move pretty fast when gluing a number of blanks.

Originally Posted by TongueTied

I'd steer clear of 5 minute epoxy. Use the 30 minute or 1 hour stuff. If it is at all warm, the epoxy will go off faster so you will get less than 5 minutes to get it all sorted. I use the 30 minute stuff. If you use the longer setting epoxy, you will definitely have enough time to get the tubes in and glue spread properly. You will even have enough time to do a few at the same time.......Also, regardless of the glue you use, leave them overnight to fully cure before you trim and turn.

I agree with what has been mention above as I now use the longer setting epoxy for the blanks.

I use bondcrete. Dries slow, remains flexible, reduces chip breakout.

First I use a cotton bud to soak the inside of the blank, then rub the brass 'till I get a good cover.

The only problem is cleaning the inside of the brass after it is inserted in the blank.

Over the past 10 years I have always used Med CA and never had a problem.

Les

Originally Posted by plantagenon

Sika Poly (Bunnings have it) is good for two reasons: (1) it expands as it dries so it fills in any holes on the inside of the blank; and (2) when dry it remains elastic so is shock absorbing to a degree.

It does take around 12 hours to dry properly before you begin to turn the blanks and you need to clamp over the ends of the blanks when you insert the glued tube as it will push the tube out when expanding. I wrap the blanks in cling wrap and put a clamp over the ends.

I use Gorilla Glue. Dampen the inside of the blank with water, put a few drops of glue on your brass tube, spread it a bit, then twist the tube in. It will NOT come out.

To keep the glue out of the tube... cut a 1/4" slice of potato and jab the tube in, and you will have a plug to keep the tube's inside clean. Don't forget to sand your tubes, to roughen them up. Glue will stick better.

I use CA glue, still have 2 part epoxy unopened, 6 months old.