Thread: Celtic knot delineation

Thanks guys all your help is appreciated. I have found that no matter how much glue I use when putting the knot together, it still comes apart when I turn it. I use white glue for the laminations and CA after I've made the Celtic Knot cuts. I also sprinkle thin CA throughout the joints when I'm turning it.

have you tried Gorilla Glue its what i use for my inserts and clamp it well

Originally Posted by Tiger

Thanks guys all your help is appreciated. I have found that no matter how much glue I use when putting the knot together, it still comes apart when I turn it. I use white glue for the laminations and CA after I've made the Celtic Knot cuts. I also sprinkle thin CA throughout the joints when I'm turning it.

Originally Posted by Tiger

Thanks guys all your help is appreciated. I have found that no matter how much glue I use when putting the knot together, it still comes apart when I turn it. I use white glue for the laminations and CA after I've made the Celtic Knot cuts. I also sprinkle thin CA throughout the joints when I'm turning it.

Well now let us break down what you are doing. Celtic knots are not that hard. You will have to supply us with a little more info. What material are you using for the inlay?? You said you use white glue. I would get rid of that for starters. Even if you are using card stock try using CA. It will not only adhere the material but will stabilize it too. Hope you are not using white glue for any plastics or wood. You have to explain a little here.

Next you have to explain what CA glue you are using and if you are using any curing spray stuff?? How long do you let the blank dry before you start turning??

I will give you some of my to do's. I use epoxy mainly. This is for the knot and the gluing in of the tube. I will use yellow carpenters glue for inlays if thay are pure wood as in the examples I had shown here. I definetly make sure my tools are sharp and I only use a skew to do turning with segments of this kind unless it has metals and then I use a carbide tool to take the bulk down. I always sand the edges down if working with a square blank which you do when making Celtic knots. This puts less stress on the joints when turning. I always drill on the lathe to get true holes and always keep the bit cool and the hole clear. Heat breaks down any type of glue used. These are some of the things I try to follow. If you give us more insight as to what you are doing then maybe we can help you get past the breaking points. Good luck. Segmenting is fun and challenging.

Glad you liked my pen…in this one, the black edge is black dyed veneer…with acrylics I use black .010 black styrene sheeting, available at most model hobby shops, the train and RC airplane modelers use it a lot.
Basic glue is thick CA.
Here is one with the black styrene as the edging.
You can order it online at Evergreen Scale Models, they have lots of thickness and shapes.

　

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f207/ambonia-celtic-knot-jig-cut-87801
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f207/gold-green-92079
A couple of links that might help you out.
Have fun.

Originally Posted by Tiger

Been doing a bit of experimenting and manilla folder cardboard works fine however if the thickness of the insert for the celtic knot is slightly out then the knot does not line up well. Question is how do you guys get your inserts? I've tried thin ripping jig on the Triton workcentre and that produces an inconsistent thickness, tried handplaning but can't really grip the timber to plane it, thicknesser shreds the insert.

Great work Ed and JT. Have seen those links and very useful. I use PVA glue for the laminations, that part stays intact. I use medium CA to glue up after making the cuts, I have used accelerator mostly but not always, doesn't seem to make much difference in the end. The part that breaks down for me is I'll be turning and a small triangular segment within the Celtic knot will come loose. May try the thick CA and see how that goes. I drill on a drill press and fairly slow speed.

Its good to see Ed post to this here. I learned alot from Ed on a different forum and have used his basic jig and system.

as to your method Tiger, The glue joints are what is breaking down. It could be from glue starvation when clamping. You have to use at least med CA. Thin gets absorbed easily. It is not easy to drill on a drill press something like this because you need to be dead center. I still find drilling on a lathe is the better choice. I would also suggest using epoxy to glue the tube in. This also helps take up any air pockets from over sized drilled holes. Thick CA will not do this. This also helps to adhere all parts to the tube. Make sure all glues are cured, not only dry before turning. Keeping the drill bit cool is a must along with being sharp. Do not use a brad point drill bit. I use denatured alcohol to keep my drill bits cool when drilling and clear the hole frequently. When turning you need a light touch and very sharp tools. I use a skew and have to sharpen a couple times before done. Put too much work into the blank to not at least hone the skew a few times. Need to knock off the corners also bfore turning. Takes some of the stress out of the turning.

Do not give up. They are fun to make and the possabilities are endless.