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Thread: Celtic knot delineation
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11th March 2014, 11:46 AM #1
Celtic knot delineation
I like the black border on the attached celtic knot pen, it helps to delineate the form. Is there an easy way to do this, think I read that you could get that effect by applying a gas torch to some veneer but would that "blacken" the whole veneer or just the outside? Suppose you could use a dye as well but same thing would that work throughout the veneer or just the edge?knot006.jpg
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11th March 2014, 01:14 PM #2Skwair2rownd
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Black plastic sheeting of some description.
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11th March 2014, 04:09 PM #3Senior Member
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Delineation
Black plastic available from some engineers merchants under the label of plastic shim, also, apparently, sold as pik-guard from music shops.
Suggest you also look at using thin brass sheet or aluminium for the same job!
Regards,
Cam
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11th March 2014, 08:32 PM #4
you can use card stock available at the newsagents, either 135 or 250gsm, its just thick colored paper, 2 -3 times thicker than standard paper
thats what i would guess was used in the knot that is shown, just make sure you match everything to the cut or match your cut to the thickness of your insert
MIKNo Result Without Effort
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11th March 2014, 08:46 PM #5
Yeah I agree with Mik. Corbs gave me a celtic knot blank to turn a while back and he said he used black cardboard applied with ca. Then one its turned it was coated with ca again. Looks great
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11th March 2014, 09:08 PM #6No Result Without Effort
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11th March 2014, 10:37 PM #7
As has been said already, cardboard is available in plenty of colours and can be layered. Might have to try a glue up with PVA, I have been using thin CA which has been working well for me but can get messy and work times aren't very long.
It's only a mistake if you don't learn from it.
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12th March 2014, 08:38 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Hey ...... this sounds interesting ................ So theoretically I could make a sandwich of say 6 different contrasting cardboard colours and get the most humungously complicated looking multi coloured celtic knot ?
I guess in practice that wouldnt really work as the large thickness of cardboard would be a fairly weak part of the pen and although looking spectacular they would be prone to breaking there ?
Or can you strengthen and stabilise with glue ?
Anybody done this to get a gaudy extravagant over the top rainbow knot ? Might look really wonderful or just cheap and trashy ............. Will put it on the list of things to try.
Bill
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12th March 2014, 10:47 AM #9
Thanks all for your contributions, got some manilla folders which come in different colours, will give them a go. Plastic would be better but a little more difficult to source.
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12th March 2014, 03:09 PM #10
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12th March 2014, 05:00 PM #11
Bill, no reason why you couldn't do that at all. So long as you get good coverage with the glue and take your time to let the glue cure before doing your next cut. I tape my knot blanks up when drilling to stop them blowing out through the knot. Once drilled and the tube is glued in the blank will be supported by the tube. I do a few cuts then stabilise with some CA then repeat until the blank is finished.
I usually do double thickness of each card to make the colour a bit more solid but you could still do each layer a different colour. I'm interested in how it would look when finishedIt's only a mistake if you don't learn from it.
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25th March 2014, 05:22 PM #12
It's all in the insert
Been doing a bit of experimenting and manilla folder cardboard works fine however if the thickness of the insert for the celtic knot is slightly out then the knot does not line up well. Question is how do you guys get your inserts? I've tried thin ripping jig on the Triton workcentre and that produces an inconsistent thickness, tried handplaning but can't really grip the timber to plane it, thicknesser shreds the insert.
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25th March 2014, 05:47 PM #13
i rip thin slices then i use a thickness sander that i made using my belt sander, as shown below
to cut my slots for the knot i use my miter saw and a jig that i made for the angles, if you wish to see that setup i can take some pickies
i use the depth stop on the saw when cutting the slots to stop cutting all the way through, that way if the sliver doesn't fit in the slot then its the wrong size
i hope this helps
MIKNo Result Without Effort
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26th March 2014, 01:33 AM #14
I do all my cutting on a tablesaw. After slicing the pieces I hit it with a piece of 22o grit sandpaper wraped around a sanding block. A couple passes and it is done. Nothing to it.
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31st March 2014, 03:13 AM #15Intermediate Member
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In Lay Alternatives
I've used craft/construction paper which is available in a rainbow of colors. What's nice is being able to glue up multiple layers to fit the cut in your blank. Good old white glue works just fine. Cut long strips glue them up and clamp in the bench vice for a day or so.
Recycle...for plastic strips I've used coffee tins...now made of plastic..My brand is a red can with a black lid. The Missus drinks de-caf which is a nice green. Look around and you'll see lots of stuff you can use...My local Woodcraft sells plastic laminate but I can't see paying $5-$6 for a piece that's 3"x5"..
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