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Thread: Closed End Curly Koa
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2nd March 2019, 11:44 AM #16
You have obviously been very sensible with your pen making and put in a lot of effort.
I find that the single blank pens sell better too and the good thing is they are easier to make. Because of the extra effort to make the double pens I put a little bit more on the price and that is what seems to turn people off.
Is your mandrel just the type with the flat milled on it and the small roller to lock the blank onto it?
A WIP of a closed end pen would be great.Dallas
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2nd March 2019, 02:04 PM #17
Yes Dallas, that is the style mandrel that I made. I was looking through my drawers in the shed just before, and found a second mandrel, it is to suit 7mm tubes, Slimlines etc.
This is the 7mm tube mandrel. It is simply made from a piece of 1/4" stainless rod, and has a store-bought bushing on there which pushes up against the collet and sets the depth for the tube to slide on.
This one can be made without a metal lathe.
DSC_9211.jpg
This is the one I made for these Baron type closed ends.I used 1/2" stainless rod, turned down the part that clamps into the collet to 12mm, and the thinner section was turned down to 9mm for a nice slip fit of the brass tube.
I am using wire shaft off a pop-rivet for the roller, whatever you use, make sure you have plenty of replacements as they get lost all the time. I have lost a few up the dust extractor.
DSC_9205.jpg
Here it is in the collet chuck.
DSC_9212.jpg
You need to file the flat down just far enough so your roller will let the brass tube slide on, when the roller is in the centre of the flat section, twist the tube and the roller jams the tube so it is locked in place to be able to turn your blank. Twist it back the other way to get the roller back in the middle of the flat so you can remove the blank off the mandrel. I have marked the position with a white paint pen, this also helps to put the blank back to the same position on the mandrel if it comes loose (it does happen) If you slide the blank back on in a different position, you will notice the blank is slightly out of round, this is because the roller distorts the brass tube and blank slightly when it locks in place.
DSC_9213.jpg
Tube slid right on. The mandrel is 1mm shorter than the brass tube.
The hole you can see in the end of the mandrel, is just a cone drilled by a centredrill so it can be supported by the live-centre on the metal lathe while the diameters are being turned down.
DSC_9215.jpgBrad.
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2nd March 2019, 02:20 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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2nd March 2019, 02:54 PM #19
Do you keep the tailstock up against the blank until nearly finished or do you turn it all the way without?
Do you use stainless just for the extra strength it offers or for other reasons?
Good tip on the rivet shaft.
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2nd March 2019, 07:39 PM #20
I use stainless for just about everything I make because it doesn’t rust, I like my stuff to stay shiny.
I don’t use tailstock support on these, just take it steady with sharp tools. If you go at it too hard you will make the blank spin on the mandrel.Brad.
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