Thread: Coating for PEns

Same as hehe, although I do tend to go for the CA finishes on more expensive kits and blanks,sometimes to bring out the beauty in the timbers, but mostly for durability I don't think there is one answer that covers all the possabilities,so like you I vary accordingly , cheers ~ John

Do a search on the forum for Les' posts and have a look at his method of MINWAX Polyurethane finish.

There is also Nitrocellulose dip (half nitrocellulose and half thinners), although you need a mask with that and also need to wear chemical proof gloves if you want to avoid a headache. I got my stock from Southeast Queensland Woodwork supplies. If you want to try is first paint the outside of a glass jar (with lid) in a couple of coats of black paint to cut out any light. Then mix the nitro and thinners in the jar. Dip straight into it with the blanks mounted on their bushes and suspended on a metal rod. Try about 6 coats (a new coat every couple of hours or each day whatever you prefer). When you have finished each coat seal the jar and the nitro mixture will last for months without discolouring. Light will turn it yellow.

Both finishes will give a high gloss finish but each are slightly different. I love the nitro finish but it takes a long while to complete compared to CA. Nitro is also very flexible.

Almost forgot. Have a look at the threads on here for the BLO (boiled linseed oil)method. Just do a search and you will find them.

I started my first pen w/CA and have only done CA since. Many, many,,,,,,many failures but I got it now. I do this because of durability. I want to know the finish on a pen in a customers hand will outlast the finish on the components.