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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Default Corrugata Sterling Silver Sedona

    Well,

    Here's a pen. Gave me lots of grief, almost worked. Changed my mind on the kit at the last moment, was going to be a Black Titanium Baron originally.

    Sterling Silver Berea Sedona, Rib Fruited Mallee Burl, sanded, MM'd, Shellawax, 2 coats of CA, Brasso'd. Don't think 2 coats of CA is sufficient over Shellawax. I have to get some Carnauba or something as an alternate protective finish for Shellawax.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

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  3. #2
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    Oct 2006
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    Trinity Beach, Qld.
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    Default

    Like that kit and wood, nice work, effort rewarded, Amos
    Good, better, best, never let it rest;
    Til your good is better, and your
    better, best.

  4. #3
    ss_11000 is offline You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo View Post
    Well,

    Don't think 2 coats of CA is sufficient over Shellawax. I have to get some Carnauba or something as an alternate protective finish for Shellawax.

    Russell.
    nice pen

    why do you need a protective finsih for shellawax... if you really see a need for a second finish, i dont think carnauba wax would work as a protective layer as it would ware off quicker than the shellawax will. IMO, if you want to use something over shellawax, dont use shellawax at all.
    S T I R L O

  5. #4
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    Sep 2008
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    Default

    I'm trying to find a compromise between the durability of CA, and the finish of Shellawax. I hate doing 10, 20 coats of Ca and ending up with a hard plastic feel, but I want to retain the shine and feel of Shellawax. In the end I didn't really get either with this pen . Still working on it.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  6. #5
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    Default

    Turned out well (sorry about the pun )
    matches the kit well
    I've been using 5 applications of shellawax. I also change lathe direction for each alternate application.
    I'm a bit in your corner, I think, I prefer the feel of the timber to the glassiness of the ca finish
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    belgrave
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    Default

    Not that I make pens but.........nice pen.

    On my stuff I have been using satin WOP then buffing with EEE. Could be a suggestion for your finish. Comes up satin and woodlike rather than that "encased in plastic" feel.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  8. #7
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    Sep 2008
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    I also change lathe direction for each alternate application.
    I think picking up the lathe and turning it around all the time is a bit extreme isn't it?

    Quote Originally Posted by tea lady
    On my stuff I have been using satin WOP then buffing with EEE. Could be a suggestion for your finish. Comes up satin and woodlike rather than that "encased in plastic" feel.
    I'm going to try some minwax as soon as I can get my hands on some, but in the long run, having just 2 - 3 days at home each week is going to make it hard to use a long curing finish.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  9. #8
    Join Date
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    Thumbs up

    Beautiful pen Boomer!

    When I first saw it I thought the pic may have been a bit "off". The discussion on finishing is helping to clarify some points for me.

    I wonder how long it will take CA to harden to the state where it is so brittle it will chip at the drop of a hat or craze? If this happens why use CA over Shellawax?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Orchard Hills NSW
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    Default Any Pictures?

    Quote Originally Posted by tea lady View Post
    Not that I make pens but.........nice pen.

    On my stuff I have been using satin WOP then buffing with EEE. Could be a suggestion for your finish. Comes up satin and woodlike rather than that "encased in plastic" feel.
    Any pictures of an item with this finish? I have not tried CA as I prefer the wood to look and feel like wood - but still on occasions want a finish that is a bit more durable than the friction polished waxes.
    Regards

    Brendan

    Magpie: adj, of or like a magpie; characterized by the habit of hoarding ascribed to magpies.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by artme View Post
    I wonder how long it will take CA to harden to the state where it is so brittle it will chip at the drop of a hat or craze? If this happens why use CA over Shellawax?
    Well, I made myself a Shellawax only finish, to test people's complaints about it dulling down. I followed Neil's usage instructions as best I could, then applied 4 coats of just Shellawax. A month after using it almost daily, it still looks great when there's no highlight on the pen, but if you look along the highlight line, you can see the highlight diffuses where my fingers rest on the pen to write daily.

    I haven't tried to "rejuvenate" that part yet, I want to give it some more work first, but I am looking to see if I can put a protective coat over the Shellawax to retain the highlights, which is what I've been trying to get at here.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  12. #11
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    Aug 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Default

    Nice work Russell. The Sedona is one of my favourites and thats nice timber.

    I recently finished a batch of Sedona pens and tried dipping with lacquer. Pleased with the results although it slows the finishing process down, but nothing could be easier. I'll have to take some pics and put them up.

  13. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Buzz View Post
    I recently finished a batch of Sedona pens and tried dipping with lacquer. Pleased with the results although it slows the finishing process down, but nothing could be easier. I'll have to take some pics and put them up.
    Thanks for the comment.

    When I get time to make a throw-away pen, I've got an idea for a new type of lacquer finish that I'm going to try, just too busy trying to make decent ones in the short weekends I have at the moment to spare the time.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo View Post
    I'm going to try some minwax as soon as I can get my hands on some, but in the long run, having just 2 - 3 days at home each week is going to make it hard to use a long curing finish.

    Russell.
    What about EEEing over the CA? It would make it more of a satin luster finish.
    anne-maria.
    T
    ea Lady

    (White with none)
    Follow my little workshop/gallery on facebook. things of clay and wood.

  15. #14
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    Sep 2008
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tea lady View Post
    What about EEEing over the CA? It would make it more of a satin luster finish.
    Haven't tried it. Could be worth a shot sometime. Will keep it in mind.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  16. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo View Post
    I think picking up the lathe and turning it around all the time is a bit extreme isn't it?
    ...
    Russell.


    I've got to get my exercise where and when I can
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

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