Thread: Which Finish is best

Originally Posted by madcraft

Hi Guys

Is this the Rustins we are talking about , been curious about it campare to Glow or shellawax / sh&thot wax finish

rustins

That's not what I meant, though I have been interested to give it a try. I still have a largish amount of shellawax left and I don't feel like wasting it

I was talking about the plastic coating, available in different kits here and here. If you do get it from Addictive, make sure you get the cheat sheet from Brett - very worthshile!

Cheers,
Dave

i'll weigh in on this because i've used many finishes.

I started out with shellawax. Found it dulled quickly but i still use it for a natural style of finish.

Then onto wipe on poly. Still use it sometimes as it leaves a nice looking finish, but i'm finding durability a little less than i'd like. I have very acidic skin, to the point that everything metal i touch has rust marks on. This is what i base durability on. Most likely my wop pens would be fine for others, but i can't use it without the pen dulling off in a short time.

Next step was spray on nitrocellulose lacquer. Looked good, tough finish. Not easy to apply. It was spray from a can and i know it'd be easier with a proper spray setup, but i haven't the money to invest in that just yet.

So now i'm onto dipping lacquer. Love it. Easy to apply, seems tough so far, and looks great. Best thing about it is that each dip will fix up any flaws from the previous dips. Also, the tin i got is enough for about a million pens so it's cheap.

I have had no success with ca, and i'm loathe to persist with it because the fumes aren't fun to deal with at all. Dipping lacquer isn't much better, but it's so easy that i have minimal exposure to it anyway.

Originally Posted by eisbaer

So now i'm onto dipping lacquer. Love it. Easy to apply, seems tough so far, and looks great. Best thing about it is that each dip will fix up any flaws from the previous dips. Also, the tin i got is enough for about a million pens so it's cheap.

Is there a special Lacquer ?

I was reading about the Rustins 2 pack and using a burnishing cream to get the 5" thick mirror look , I wonder if EEE would work after all its basically a cut and polish

I used a spray on Auto Lacquer yesterday looked brilliant but due to the ambient temp as it dried it bubbled slightly so scratched it and did a WOP. I will try again in better weather conditions.

Originally Posted by wheelinround

I used a spray on Auto Lacquer yesterday looked brilliant but due to the ambient temp as it dried it bubbled slightly so scratched it and did a WOP. I will try again in better weather conditions.

Was that as you put it on, or after it died? That can happen if you do it too thick as well.Very light multiple coats works best.

Russell.

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Was that as you put it on, or after it died? That can happen if you do it too thick as well.Very light multiple coats works best.

Russell.

Light coats about 3 it was just the humidity etc Russell the garage gets so damn hot from 10am on by noon its unbearable. The light may have also contributed.

Like today should be out thee sanding a coffee table ain't going to happen to late to even start.

I may as well chuck in my 2 bobs worth
I use the Rustins but I have a 500mm length of threaded bar and as the
blanks are finished (600# n/c sealer, 000 steel wool) I put them on the bar with small tapered spacers between holds 8-10 blanks. a quick wipe with pure alcohol then 4 quick brush coats
of rustins (only mix 5ml) alowe to dry 24 hours then lightly cut with 1200 wet I do this on the bar and on the lathe ie all 8-10 at once only cutting to remove any small spots or blemishes, a wipe with alcohol and a further 4 coats let stand 48 hours the remove from bar and polish on the mandrell (using the tapered spacers to locate the blank on the mandrel) with acrilic pads ,rustins burnishing cream and finish with plasiix
I have two pens here at work that have been rolling around the desk and work benches now for 18 months and the finish is as good as the day they were made



If I am in a hurry the CA/BLO works well


regards
Bowl Basher

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Like today should be out thee sanding a coffee table ain't going to happen to late to even start.

I hear ya on that one. Just driving home from town, and the car said it was 36 degrees, bleh. I think all my finishes are currently setting in their pots.

Russell.

Yep did a bit of work in the shed yesterday - the sweat was dripping off the forehead and dropping on the work so gave up, did manage to rough out a couple of blanks though

Another finish I've used is Organoil - hard burnishing oil. It's tung oil based.
I used it on my first pen - and still looks like the day I made it. Being an oil it penetrates the timber.

As you all know, I use WOP as my finish of choice and swear by it if it is done correctly.

Ian I am just up the road at Aberglasslyn if you need a one on one with the WOP.

Originally Posted by Simomatra

As you all know, I use WOP as my finish of choice and swear by it if it is done correctly.

Ian I am just up the road at Aberglasslyn if you need a one on one with the WOP.

Having tried Sam's method one one not yet completed its looking great

Thanks Sam what a difference its made.

Ray

Cheers Ray glad its working. I found camel hair brushes at spotlight last week for about $3 each took all they had. Pony is ok as well

Originally Posted by Simomatra

Cheers Ray glad its working. I found camel hair brushes at spotlight last week for about $3 each took all they had. Pony is ok as well

So that was you in Scone in the horse paddock Sam