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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    USA
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    474

    Default Finishing touches, ends, polishing CA, etc.

    Couple of questions here. How do you guys finish your ends?

    Most ends I would assume are finished flush. But how about the middle ring on the Cigar pens where it buts up against the round spacer? See how sharp it is?

    Do you bevel the end of the wood there to flow into it or do you leave it sharp?

    How about CA finishes? I've been using Tung oil and applying 5-10 coats and just building up a shin that way, I like the way it looks, kind of a flat shin, doesn't show scratches like some finishes do, like say CA. I've been playing with CA though and I like how easy it is to build up a shine and also how quick it dries. With Tung oil it might take me a day or two building up coats, not so with CA. What I did was apply, steel wool it to rough it a bit, apply another coat, sand it with 600 (the finest I have right now) polish polish polish. Polished it a bit too thin so I put on another couple coats and sanded it flat and smooth again, then polished it up again.

    It came out allright, there are still some fine scratches on it though, not many, but enough to bug me. Do I just need to go finer on the sandpaper?

    Is this how you traditionally apply CA?

    Cheers!

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
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    63
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    13,359

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt88s View Post
    Do you bevel the end of the wood there to flow into it or do you leave it sharp?
    I'd definitely profile the wood to flow into it. Sharp, unsupported edges chip too easily and just don't look right.

    It came out allright, there are still some fine scratches on it though, not many, but enough to bug me. Do I just need to go finer on the sandpaper?

    Is this how you traditionally apply CA?
    I like Tung Oil too. As for the CA, is tounds like you need to go down a few more grits. Most people here use micromesh for the finer grits, I think, although one or two of us also use cutting compounds.

    Personally I try to avoid CA as I'm not overly fond of high gloss finishes and, of more import to me, I've started to develop an allergy to CA... probably from overexposure. There are times when it is "the" finish of choice though.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Baltimore,Md
    Posts
    16

    Default

    For me thats a 2 part question. It all depends on what im finishing. I make all my own polyester resin blanks, so for the most part I use that. Although I have done many wood pens so ill explain both. I also tend to stay away from CA as a finish. I just think its to messy and i get the same shine from other methods. For my poly I use a skew as a final on the lathe. Sanding I use regular wet dry sandpaper. Just regular old stuff from 3M mainly. I sand up to 800 dry, then 1000, 1500, 2000 wet. Then I use Mothers chrome polish (the liquid type). Finally I finish with Meguirs carnubba wax, then Meguirs mirror glaze. I have never seen scratches, so this is what works for me. Some people feel the need to sand higher, but for me the polish does the sanding for me.

    For wood I sand up to 800 dry then apply sanding sealer. Finally I apply bees wax, allow it to set for a minute or two then buff it with a soft dry towel.

    hope this helps someone.

    Keith
    Keith
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    ***Close Your Eyes And Visualize***

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    what you do at the end of the blank depens on what trim is used with the kit , what shape you are doing and what diameter you turn the end too.

    some of the rings have groves others are flat & square.

    i will sometimes turn them sharp, others I will part down to the edge of the bush with the skew, sometimes I will put in a small V grove.

    If i am working on soft or unstable material I will coat the ends of the blank with CA to stabalise.

    withy CA you most certainly have to go to at least 1200 gritt and then some abrasive polish of some kind.
    What sort of polish varies.... eveyone has their favorite.
    Some use EEE... I use automotive buffing compound.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Hills District, Sydney
    Age
    51
    Posts
    602

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matt88s View Post
    Most ends I would assume are finished flush. But how about the middle ring on the Cigar pens where it buts up against the round spacer? See how sharp it is?

    Do you bevel the end of the wood there to flow into it or do you leave it sharp?
    Hi Matt

    The Pen turning book I have suggests to lightly bevel/chamfer the ends with some fine sandpaper after you take the barrels off the mandrel. With the sandpaper on something flat, twist the end of the barrel on the paper keeping a constant angle.


    cheers
    BD

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    melbourne SEAFORD
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    60
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    723

    Default

    MATT what's the wood? flush with the bands if incorporated in the pen , but if as in slim lines the band is seperate slightly rad the edge after sealing the end of the blank.
    insanity is a state of mind if you don't mind it does not matter.

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