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Thread: Gotta love that skew
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17th July 2008, 02:49 PM #16
My biggest peave with the skew is it doesn't seem to always have anything to do with skill or experiance, it's just a ticking time bomb. Yes in your normal wood you should be able to go long periods without any trouble, but I hunt up the sickest most twisted pieces of timber I can find, then cross cut them, or put them at funny angles and by the time I'm finished, using a skew is really a crapshoot more than anything. All it takes is one uncharted hard spot, or twist of the grain, or just plain ornery wood, and bam, your beautiful bit of treasure blows up in your face.
It's just a high risk tool.Wood. Such a wonderful substance.
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17th July 2008, 03:45 PM #17
I also only use the skew for pen turning. Only the skew in most cases from roughing down to the finish. I use a half inch Henry Taylor. I have no illusion in my mind that I am using it extremely cautiously because it still scares the bejeesus out of me, probably incorrectly, and with one method only; shaving right to left.
I have tried to use it on bowls and other jobs which require curves and have failed dismally. I have had the guys at my turning club coach me through it but it seems I have a mental block. They use it all sorts of ways but I continue to take great spirals out of nice pieces of timber.
But I love it on my pens.
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17th July 2008, 05:21 PM #18043TURNING
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When using a skew I always try to use the 1/3 above the short point especially for flat work.
One method I found useful is to use a square blank placing the diagonals horizontally, raise the tool post slightly above this height,
ensure the skew blade is at least 30degrees to the cutting angle
after the timber has been roughed round....place the cutting face and the skew over the job and rest it on the tool rest with the timber rotating..
slowly move the skew back till the bevel is being rubbed (you should not be cutting and the point / cutting edge will be above the job)
A little more and fine powder will form (if this is near an edge you will hear a loud BANG shortly, - the dust should be about 1/3 of the way up the cutting face)
now holding the 30degrees start sliding the skew along the face of the timber and watch the timber fly
If you need a deeper cut draw the skew back slightly and increase the angle a bit
you can cut using the short point but you really need a good balance on the "rubbing the bevel" part.
Well That how I do it.... (MOST DAYS - until it goes BANG!!!)
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17th July 2008, 07:56 PM #19
G'day Matt,
Sure does hurt and your post is I use the skew for all my pens now and I'm building up the gumption for larger projects .
I'm constantly encouraged by the posts of beautiful, considered craftwork displayed by members of this forum. I'm equally comforted by your disaster post (and NewLondons pen mandrel). Please see my contribution to the bloopers below. This particular blunder taught me to be diligent about trimming blanks . Perhaps we could start a bloopers and blunders thread ???????David
Eat right, exercise, die anyway
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19th July 2008, 12:07 PM #20
I use a 3/4 gouge for lots of my pens, turned at an angle it cuts very clean with very little sanding required. I do use a skew, but have rounded off the back side so there is nothing to catch and when using it I have to pay close attention so no distractions. Whenever I get distracted using the skew is when the wood gets flung off the tube around the room.
I continue to practice with the skew on 2x4 or 2x2 pine pieces and I think it will be a longggggg time before I can claim to really be good at it.
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