Thread: Increasing output how?

Batching in preparation for certain, and i know a number of guys that will turn more than one pen (single such as sierra) tube at a time if its efficient to do so. Also a practiced hand at what they do, everything gets quicker the more you do it.

I'm probably the slowest here though, if it takes me a day or two to make a pen i'm not worried, i've done enough now i think that i could push out a quantiity if required to.

The big tip though is practice practice practice.

Neal.

Tiger, many reasons for wanting to increase output, one is for commercialism, ie wanting to sell a lot -cheaply. Sometimes it is just wanting to get done quickly the more mundane things. Commercially you could rig up a router to take off the corners and do most of the "turning", but it does take the fun out of just turning for the pleasure. Amos

I always prepare my blanks several days before actually turning them. I have a permanent drill press jig set up as well as a pen blank cut off sled for my bandsaw. I always trim the ends of the blanks on a linisher with a miter gauge to keep the square blank, square-on to the disc, till the brass tube touches the 80 grit paper. I actually turned 6 Bullet pens this arvo, took just on 2 hours, whilst listening to Elvis & the BIG 'O' on the shed Jamo system. Must admit, it is hard to control the gouge while your #### is swinging backward and forward to the music

I don't concern myself with high output, just concentrate on the best fit and finish I can produce.
I started a JR Victor and a Sedona this afternoon and so far have only turned the blanks to size and put 20 coats of CA on the JR blanks. Seems to take forever for the CA to dry at the moment in this cold weather.
I was doing some other bits and pieces in between.

to me its a hobby and so no hurry...... Why spoil a time of rest with crass commerce.
Pete

I'm like Parris in that I cut & glue up my blanks a day or two before turning them (usually 6 or so at a time) & then I'll take my time and finish them.

Guess I asked the question as I have limited time and now that I use CA finish my pen turning productivity has significantly decreased.

Pariss, that's quite a set-up you have there. I have a blank cutting sled too and use a similar jig to you to square up the blank, my blanks sit on a rod so that I get a guaranteed 90 degree face. I've been thinking of getting one of those self-centring drilling jigs, it'll depend on how many pens I get done in the next few weeks.

I have at times prepared 30 blanks at one time. That is cut to length,drilled, glued in one day. Trimmed and about 15-20 turned next day. Third day is finish turning, trim ends, put together. As I do not use CA very often it is easier. Hutt wax is my preferd finish for most of my pens.

If I plan on turning pens of a weekend (no matter if it's 2 or 20), I drill and glue my blanks on Friday night and then have either Saturday or Sunday to turn them. If I'm doing a batch of single tube pens like bullet pens or sierra's I'll mount 2 on the mandrel and turn them both at the same time. Doesn't really take that much longer to turn that way. Most of my finishes are a couple of coats with Shellawax Glow which takes very little time to apply and buff.

Keep in mind that the "Finish time" of a pen may vary enormously ,some of the pens may require significant amounts of time to get them to the finish stage ,particularly some cast blanks with a lot of time invested in them , so to finish a certain amount of pens on any given day ,may have meant some time in preparation before the final finishing is achieved Certain efficiencies come naturally in time with getting faster results without loss of quality as has been said , it's not a race and needs to be a satisfying experience ,each stage of preparation is important to the next ,doing batches can be quicker and more efficient without losing quality Cheers ~ John

Been thinking of the things that slow me down and here's a perennial one for me. I put my blanks on the mandrel, tighten up the knurled wheel and apply the tool to the wheel and find that the blank spins because the wheel isn't on tight enough. That then means I have to turn the lathe off and lose time re-tightening the wheel, usually things go ok from there but sometimes the wheel needs further re-tightening. I am mindful about overtightening but have never really got the balance right, would overtightening have detrimental effects? I know you don't overtighten the tailstock because that will flex the mandrel but the wheel holding the blanks?

Tiger ! the simple answer to that one is to get a mandrel saver centre, This will allow you to adjust your pressures as needed,When you start most blanks need to be extra tight to allow for the resistance of your tools to cutting , eg square or bigger diameter blanks will present more drag on your tools than the finishing cuts, rough down to size then readjust pressures to suit the lesser resistance of the finishing cuts, this can all,be done without stopping the lathe as the shaft is supported in the centre bushing ,and pressure applied by your tailstock handle , easy peasy hehe,and so much quicker than the brass screw arrangement ,you also reduce the number of spacer bushes needed for different length tubes cheers ~ John

Thanks John, I've bought a mandrel saver, haven't used it yet, can you do 2 blanks on it at the same time?

Tiger! you certainly can do two blanks at the same time , all the mandrel saver does in effect is take the place of the brass Nut, I have an adjustable mandrel as well, which is a collet type so you can vary the length of the mandrel as well , I tend to have the threaded end in the collet to leave the full dia of plain mandrel to go into the mandrel saver ,when I am polishing my 308 bullet shells I put three at a time on the mandrel you need at least an inch of mandrel inside the mandrel saver for good support ,but we are not looking at enormous stresses and strains in pen turning ,just accuracy and repeatability to an extent , if you already have one you should put it to work , you may never go back to the brass Nut again hehe. You start your cutting ,if it spins simply tighten the tailstock wheel till you can turn the way you want , it pays to slacken the pressure a bit when nearer to size to relieve the pressure and make sure sure its all seated in the bushes as truly as possible , I turn a lot between centres and in that case you only are gripping a tiny amount on the tubes ,rarely spins and if it does a slight tighten will lock it up nicely (between centres is more accurate in most cases for concentricity ,but means one tube at a time ) Cheers ~ John