Thread: Lacquer finish

I only did about 5 pens this way, so I am no expert, but I found about 5 dips got a good build-up of finish.
I was waiting an hour between dips, and then let it cure for around 24 hrs before any sanding or buffing.
I think I read where some didnt think this type of finish needed to be sanded and buffed, I found in practice that I got a much better final finish by sanding and buffing.

G'day Tony. Don't know if this will help but here is a link to a previous tutorial on dipping method. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f207/m...utorial-76543/

Thanks
Ironwood/Pariss For the reply
Will see how I go
Cheers Tony

I lacquer all my wood pens.
A little info first.
Check the lacquer you are using and see what the reccommended ratio of thinner to lacquer is, most are 1 part thinner to 1 part lacquer.
Depending on the wood, I have gone as thin as 2 parts thinner to 1 part lacquer.
Cocobola, paduk, ebony, almost all dense hard woods will "pop" in as little as 5 coats, porous woods will take a lot longer, so I use the 2 to 1 mix on the hard stuff, the 1 to 1 on the porous stuff.
Acrylic lacquer is liquid acrylic plastic...the thinner or reducer is the solvent, by combining the two, you create a thin liquid plastic that flows because of the solvent, then the solvent flashs off or evaporates away leaving the thin plastic coat that dries.
The thinner the lacquer, the faster it dries, but the more coats are needed.
Lacquer literally means "to layer"...the beauty of this finish is each coat cuts back into the previous coat, in that the solvent will melt the previous coat some, so you end up building a solid layer as thick as you choose by multiple dipping.

I use a 1/4" eye bolt with threads all the way to the eye, run a 1/4" nut way up it, put the bushings and blank on it just like on the mandrel, run another 1/4" nut on and hand snug the nuts against the bushing, then dip.



Every two dips I reverse the blank and bushing to distribute the finish equally on each end.
The bushings are there so the excess lacquer has somewhere to run off and puddle up on, instead of the blank.
I keep my lacquer/thinner mix in the jar painted black because in its liquid state it is UV reactive, it will yellow, but once dry it remains clear.
Your first several dips will not look like much, but once it builds up and fills in the low spots, at some point the finish will "pop" perfectly smooth, I add one more dip after that point, and let dry at least 24 hours before handeling.

The above photo should show the excess finish puddles around the bottom of the bushing.

You can build up a fairly good finish quickly, and one of the pluses is that if the pen ever gets scratched, you can lightly sand it, re-dip and fix it quickly. I cut this piece off of one of the bushings to measure the final thickness.

Note the lacquer is as shiny and smooth as the plated parts of the pen.
If you feel the need, once the finish has dried 24 hours, you can polish with Hutts Ultra Plastic polish, but most of the time the finish is glass smooth right off.
To test if the finish is reallt dry, use a fingernail and press into the finish on the bushings, if it marks easy, let it dry longer, if it is hard, the use a hobby knife, score along the joint line between the blank and bushings and remove.
Last tip, lacquer dries best between 78 and 82 degrees F, and again, the thinner it is, the faster it dries, but the more coats are needed.
Do not try to dip pure lacquer that has not been thinned, it will dry, eventualy, in a few days if not a week.
I have used Deft, the Watco shown, and Duracryl automotive lacquer, and Belens Rock Hard table lacquer, all with excellent results.
Think of this...acrylic lacquer is the "Clear coat" auto makers apply over the custom paint jobs, it is very durable, and easy to fix if scratched.
Hope this helps...

Edblysard
thanks heaps for the reply
going on your instruction iv opp's straight up i didnt thin the lacquer for a start just dipped it straight into the tin
and i did wonder about automotive lacquer, i just used what i had in the cupboard a 70% gloss for timber
plenty of lessons learnt
thanks again
cheers Tony

Well, lets see how that works out...it may be a pre-thinned version for furniture and dry a little quicker...photos when done?

Tony

I have copied Ed in all respects including his hanging and drying technique. I works a treat but you have to leave the bushes in. If you do as I tried and just leave a nut at the bottom to save bushes then it will form a buildup on the bottom of the blank.

The lacquer over here is called Nitrocellulose Lacquer as you probably know. The car stuff over here won't work as it is different to the US and you need the Nitro to melt the coats together for the bond. I am just using 1:1 mix.

Its slower than CA but the finish gives depth

Greg

No acrylic lacquer in OZ?
Thats not any fun!
Nitrocellulose is used here for repairing older funiture and such, it was and still is popular with the finer funiture maker crowd, and as Greg pointed out, lacquer, either type, can give a great impression of depth to any work.
Is acrylic just not available outside auto finisher circles, or just not sold there at all?
I know the nitro can have a pretty good/strong "aroma" about it, the acrylic also smells, but it is a sweet smell, can be a bit overpowering in confined spaces, so make sure which ever you use to have adaquate ventillation, and no open flames.
Acrylic lacquer and its thinner are very flammable, so excerise caution.
Have fun, looking forward to some photos.

Ed

I tried to get the acrylic you use in Australia but couldn't find it anywhere. There is auto lacquer here but I am not sure if it is the same stuff. I ended up going for the Nitro which is sold by SEQ Woodwork in Brisbane. You are right about the smell, it will take your head off your shoulders if you try and sniff it and it does need good ventilation. However, I haven't had a problem with it although I store it away from sparks. It lasts for years given the amount you need to use.

Acrylic Clear 1L, Septone Products Australia
.
Same stuff as PPG Duracryl Automotive lacquer.
Acrylic Thinner 1L, Septone Products Australia
The thinner or reducer for above.

Automotive "clear coats" are acrylic lacquer...nothing more than acrylic plastic in a solvent, just enough solvent to keep it liquid in the can, and you thin it more to use...once the solvent evaporates, all that is left is clear acrylic plastic, hard as nails, durable and fixable easily.
Trade names dont mean much, there is only one way to make acrylic, and the manufactuers are limited, odds are this stuffin made and sold worldwide under different trade names.
Dont know the cost differental between the nitro and acrylic, here the acrylic is a little less expensive, but as you said, it will take years to use up a liter or quart.

I got a litre of acrylic lacquer ( automotive type ) from Super Cheap Auto.
Cant remember the brand, will have a look later and get back here.

Greg,

Dulon acrylic lacquer sold by PPG in Australia is very similar to the US PPG Duracryl lacquer.

The major difference between the modern automotive acrylic and nitro cellulose lacquers is the acrylics use cellulose acetate butyrate instead of nitro cellulose.

Michael

The brand I got is "Protec"
It seemed to work OK.
Just didnt keep at it because I didnt have the time to do a dip every hour for most of the day.

Hi Tony
I am new to turning but I have learnt from another turner who does pens how to lacquer finish. I brush the finish on the wait 10min then buff 5sec then repeat first step two more times. I was having trouble a previously posted. I had a couple of people message me with some helpful hints which has inproved my finish ten fold. The best one was to inprove the brush I was using to a sable or camel hair brush. This worked a treat. Another was to buff in short bursts not letting the finish get hot. The lacquer I use is a wattyl stylwood 95% gloss Link for lacquer http://www.google.com.au/url?q=http:...ZzMea2C7wWVIDw.
I can say this finish doesnt loss its gloss. I was shown example of a slimline done some time ago that was tarnished and lost its colour but the finish on the timber was still glossy as ever. I think the pen was over 10 years old.
This pic shows the finish (except for the Middle Burl Thats CA) As seen previously.
I know this isnt dipping but I thought you might like to try it. Im trying CA finishes at the moment. There is always something new to try.
Goodluck with it anyway.

Cheers Skewturn