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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Georgia, USA
    Posts
    21

    Default Newbee difficulty with fitting tubes

    I've turned less than thirty pens, some alright, some a little less than alright. All in all without too much difficulty. However I have run into this problem several times. After drilling blanks some tubes go in fine and others wedge tight before full insertion. What am I doing wrong?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    gold coast
    Posts
    3,956

    Default

    I find this problem sometimes with the burls, or slightly less dry wood. I think the wood expands with the heat of drilling, and then shrinks slightly after it cools and dries a bit, sometimes have to ream out with the drill before glueing in the tubes.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Aberglassly,NSW
    Age
    80
    Posts
    4,983

    Default

    Welcome to the mad house.

    Before attempting to glue in the tubes make sure they are a nice slip fit. GP has the cause, another way is to use sand paper around a pin punch or drill and dress the hole till the fir is correct.

    If the fir is to tight and you use thin CA it will set before you get the tube fully in. Use med CA or epoxy and you should be OK

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Trinity Beach, Qld.
    Age
    76
    Posts
    5,313

    Default

    If you get to "know" which wood causes the problem, you could always use a fraction bigger then use 5 minute epoxy to glue it in, with some woods, especially if you Xcut the blank, it is wise to rub the tube with sandpaper to roughen it so that the glue will adhere to it, and to run some epoxy through the blank first making sure that all the wood has a coating, then insert the blank with a twisting motion. This will minimize "blowouts" especially on cross cuts. Some use potato in the end of the tube to stop glue going into it while inserting the tube. Amos
    Good, better, best, never let it rest;
    Til your good is better, and your
    better, best.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Gelorup, West Aust.
    Age
    61
    Posts
    730

    Default

    Some use potato in the end of the tube to stop glue going into it while inserting the tube. Amos
    I use my chain saw file to rid the inside of tubes of stray glue, saves on potatoes!!!. mmm ..only a good trick if you have one I suppose

    JD
    Last edited by Touchwood; 20th December 2008 at 12:55 AM. Reason: typo
    "No point getting older if you don't get smarter"

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    East of Melbourne.Vic. Australia
    Posts
    904

    Default

    Don't try to glue them up right after drilling. The hest of the drilling process will slightly dampen the inside of the blank, and caause almost instant grip with superglue.
    Jack the Lad.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    A.C.T
    Age
    89
    Posts
    2,769

    Default All sound advice.

    I use potatoe in the end and shish sticks to apply the glue in the blank and on the brass, messy proceedure but never a glue failure (use it like someone else is paying for it) then a clean one to zot the potatoe slice out.

    Often drill a hundred at a time and glue same number in batches. My finding is the predrilled Goldfields Burl and such always need checking. A handy tool is a 7mm drill in a wooden handle and check each one before. Murphys Law says that one very rare and special blank every now and again can suffer especially using CA glue. The other slip fit check can enable you to check the length and if with Simlines one is shorter use that one for the top. Sometimes timber will dissapear quickly while you face off someone told me.

    Have success Peter.

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