Thread: newbie needs help with plastic blank

the handtool that should work for reversing the bit is a pair of vice grips

Might be worth while slowing the drill speed down to reduce the heat and use water to cool the inside of the blank and the drill bit. Yes it is important to just drill a small depth each time and regularly clean the swarth from the drill. Very important to go very steady with pressure on the drill bit when nearing the bottom of the blank. Might pay to cut the blank a bit longer to allow for any small breakaways at the bottom. Steady as she goes.

I normally drill at about 700 RPM and only go about 10mm at a time before clearing the swarf. Make sure you are using a good quality drill and it is sharp as a dull bit will generate heat quickly and not produce nicely cut shavings.
Sounds like you were going okay but maybe just left it a little too long before clearing the swarf on that last go. The deeper you go in the more heat that is generated, so when getting toward the end of the hole you may need to clear more often.
Do you have a metal work vise? If so you could hold the blank in the serrated teeth of the jaws (across the vise so you grip on as large an area as possible) and as PWH suggests use a pair of vice grips to lock onto the drill. I would suggest just gripping the blank lightly at first and try turning the drill. If the blank spins in the vise, nip it up a little at a time. You should try turning the drill a little in the direction it would normally be drilling too just to try to break the grip the acrylic has on the drill and then attempt small twists back and forward.
You could also try standing it with the drill up and pour some water in the hole and let it soak say overnight and this may allow the water to penetrate down around the drill which will make it slippery. Once you break the grip between the drill and acrylic it will wind out easily.
But sometimes you have to say "I will learn from that" and destroy the blank to get your drill back. I hate giving in to a blank or kit that didn't do what was expected too.

I actually got help from the penturners forum. Seems I did a lot of things wrong.
1. I had the lathe set to full speed. BAD idea.
2. I must have found the worst youtube video out there. I was holding the tailstock with my hand, and it's wobbly unless it's tightened down.
So that was wrong too. That's probably the main reason the thing got so hot in the first place.
3. SHORT plunges, pull out, clean and cool the bit. I didn't do that either.



In the end I finally managed to get the bit out and save the blank too. I chilled the whole thing, then poured very hot, nearly boiling water over the blank and just kept wiggling the bit. Finally I got some movement, and after all that cooled and I tried again, the bit made a full rotation and I was able to get the thing out. Believe it or not the hole wasn't widened as some thought it might be.
Since I was almost to the end, I put it in the chuck the other way and finished drilling. Came out fine. Got the tube glued in, ends trimmed, ready to go.

there must be 4 or more pages in that forum about all this. The whole wiggly tailstock had them all scolding me. WRONG way to do it. Today I drilled another blank and this time did it right. I set the point of the bit against the blank, TIGHTENED the tailstock and used the knob to press the bit in. Only a half inch at a time, backed it out, cleaned, cooled it with a wet paper towel, repeat. Came out perfect. Just like I knew what I was doing. lol.

That's a good outcome.