Thread: Pen mill question

What I use for all blanks after glueing is the long taper reamer from Radio Shack type stores (cheap as chips). My hand reamer only for Slimlines,Streamlines all you could buy nearly 40 yrs ago I use it for every Slim. The inside outside gun store reamer for all other larger brasses.DSCF0033.JPGDSCF0036.JPGDSCF0020-001.JPGDSCF0014-001.JPG No you cannot buy the stepdrill reamer any more. I get longevity by gluing the stepdrill into a handle and using it by hand. The long taper is perfect to clean the blank initially after gluing, I use poly glues that swell up and I trim in an hour or two after gluing as well the outside excess.

Peter.

Grizzly Supplied Prismatic Jaw-001.jpgDSCF0025.JPGDSCF0022.JPGDSCF0001.JPGDSCF0028.JPG



How I drill blanks I use a pair of prismatic jaws in the vice in the drill press .the device I use to slide the blanks to square the ends using two sets of punches ,Metric and imperial. This squares the blanks before turning.

Peter.

Fumbler,
I make a custom adjustable multi-layer bushing which adapts to varying pen tube sizes.
Which is a fancy way of saying that I wrap stuff around the pen mill shaft until it fits neatly in the tube.
Attached are pics of paper towel in action:IMG_20190330_101405.jpgIMG_20190330_101430.jpg

For getting rid of the burrs, a de-burring tool.

For trimming blanks after glue up I use a Rick Herrell off set sanding jig that you can clamp the different size punches for the tubes to slide on. After supplying CA house his trimming mill to clean any excess off that has rolled over onto the ends. I bought the mill with the adaptor, stand and sleeves to fit all tubesFB_IMG_1555017017310.jpegFB_IMG_1555016927797.jpeg

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Haven't used a pen mill in 15 years. Keeping them sharp enough as not to tear the grain is the biggest issue. I use use the big disc sander to get them near enough for turning, then after turning, use a Jacobs chuck to hold a suitably sized transfer punch to guid the tube onto a small sanding disc mounted in the headstock. This is similar to Peter's technique just not as aggressive as the big disc sanded (goes too fast).

Another Rick Herrell jig,sanding disc and Transfer punch set user here. I then use a single blade counter sink to ream the brass to allow easier construction of the pen.

I trim the blank back to the brass tube with the slide compound mitre saw, then I turn between centres with bushes to get down to about 1mm oversize, then I true the ends up using a homemade sanding mill, that I turn by hand.
then I seal the ends with CA, then finish turning between centres with no bushes.

I found long ago that those toothy pen mills damage the end of the blank once they get a bit blunt.

Edit- I use one of those tapered reamers to true the hole in the brass tube after every stage.

I'm a sander and transfer punch advocate. I've posted this before but it fits with the conversation. With the mitre gauge and the table adjusted along with a little twirling while sanding the ends are perfectly squared.

Pete