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Thread: Pen Mills
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22nd September 2006, 10:30 AM #1
Pen Mills
How do you go about sharpening your pen mill (barrel trimmer)? Do you use a file, a diamond file, a grinder or something else? Do you hone across the face or on the verticle/angled sides? Or do you something else to square your blanks?
There are several threads about this on the IAP forum, but would like to here what people do here.
Bob
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22nd September 2006, 01:46 PM #2
G'day Bob
I just ran a file very carefully across the face and it worked just fine it didnt take much at all to put an edge back on the mill.
Brett
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22nd September 2006, 02:51 PM #3
Diamond lap, just a stroke or two on the face of the flute.
In the early days (before I honed my sharpening skills ) I found that lapping the bevelled edge can either round it over slightly or sometimes change one bevel angle more than t'other. This results in the cutting edges being slightly different heights, so one side cuts more aggressively than t'other. This can cause an obvious "step" in the milled face of the pen... not exactly a desirable thing.
Lapping the face of the flute can cause the same problems, but the change in height is much less pronounced.
Now that I've learnt the skills to sharpen reliably at a constant angle, I guess I should switch to sharpening the bevel... it'd lengthen the overall service life of the mill. But old habits are hard to change.
- Andy Mc
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22nd September 2006, 02:56 PM #4
Skew
I haven't needed to sharpen mine. Have you been running that drill in reverse again?Terry B
Armidale
The most ineffective workers will be systematically moved to the place where they can do the least damage - management.
--The Dilbert Principle
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22nd September 2006, 06:31 PM #5
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22nd September 2006, 06:42 PM #6
Make 5 pens out of Jarrah, Boree, Bohemia or similar timbers.
Then come back and tell me your mill (or drill bit, or tools) doesn't need sharpening.
- Andy Mc
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22nd September 2006, 07:03 PM #7
Totally agree Skew, these bloody hardwoods are murder
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22nd September 2006, 09:08 PM #8
hardwoods may be murder but they do make nice pens, but to save the cutting edge you could put it in the drill in reverse. that saves the cutting blade..lol
Toni
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22nd September 2006, 11:22 PM #9
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22nd September 2006, 11:29 PM #10
ROFL
Skew, this reverse drill thing is gonna haunt you to the end mate, ya know that dont ya!..... Rich
They say the Irish are wierd? Scotch Finger Biscuits.
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22nd September 2006, 11:46 PM #11
sorry skew no I was not having a go at you I was actually having a go at myself.. Except I meant putting the mill in back to front in the drill that helps it to stay sharp too...but if the cap fits I suppose you will have to wear it
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23rd September 2006, 12:23 AM #12
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23rd September 2006, 11:23 AM #13
I sharpen mine on the grinder:eek:
seriously
I take the "mill bit" off the shank and put it on the end of s screw driver or back on the very end of the shank & touch it up on the grinder.
It's no more dificult than sharpening a drill.
You just have to make sure you consistenly sharpening each flute the same angle and the same ammount.
Check the cutting edges aganst the back of a steel rule or similar "flat thing".
needless to say you will need to use a freshly dressed flat wheel.
I agree if you are working the harder timbers or some of the synthetics you will be sharpening regularly.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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23rd September 2006, 10:35 PM #14
My pen mill was taken to my saw doctor it cut better than when it was new
Andrew
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