Thread: Seasoning GREEN BURL Pen Blanks

Originally Posted by salty72

So I guess the question for today is... "what do Ppl use to dry pen blanks...?"

Personally I use Time. This is the most reliable and effective way, with less damage, and less ruined projects.

Personally I stay away from the chemical methods, and like the time method just because I can't see how the wood is going to be as stable when you force it to the dry stage as when you just let it naturally assume it's natural equilibrium. Even if you get it dry enough to turn and finish, who's to say that last 10% isn't going to cause it to slowly crack/warp/shrink/swell/etc, 3-6-8 months down the line?

I know a lot of people do use other methods though, and it seems to work for some of them. Woodcraft sells something called penacril or penacrlic or something like that, that supposedly works very well.

For me, when I make a pen, I want it to last, I want it to be perfect. Especially if I'm going to sell it. The thought of it cracking or moving some months later is horrifying to me. To me the extra time, cost, and trouble of waiting for it to dry or sourcing already dry is worth the hassle and peace of mind.

I don't think you're going to find an alternate method that works reliably and well, sadly, I wish but...

Just me 2c.

everything I have cut in the past has always been out of DRY burl, and I normally use the "time" method, but find about 30% of them can only be sold as boomerangs, as it turns out the Queenslanders love em as they are shaped like bananas (local Ozzy Joke) I have even cut blanks 25mmX25mm (1"x1") stacked for 3months and re cut straight, but it seams a big waste. and as this burl is very special I wanted to get as much as possible out of it..

It has also been suggested the freezer might work - My consern would be as the moisture froze and expanded, it would crack and damage the timber??

I am having success drying my blanks in the roof space of my house however that was in the other seasons, guess in Newcastle the real drying season is longer than here with the snow breezes right now.
Peter

I have been playing with the microwave approach. Tried a camphor turning blank the other day in 5 min bursts taking out to cool down between blasts. Weighed it first and after each successive session in the microwave. First weight was 1450g, after 5 or 6 goes that weight was down to 1250g. It was still making significant drops but didn't want to push it just yet. I also had a play with a couple of walnut pen blanks and learned that the time needs to be a lot less than 5 min. Would look at 2-3 min bursts. From what I have read once the weight gets to a stable constant then it should be right to turn. Have also read that it can affect the colours in the timber.

If the burl is that nice though I probably wouldn't want to ruin it experimenting. Try some cheap eucalypt burl and go from there.

Corbs
(The Camphor blank was one of the half backs I got from you a while ago)

I gave up trying to circumvent father time. As much as I dislike being patient, I dislike having cracked pens even more. I don't cut up green wood into blanks either.


Rick

Hello there folks from the goodole USA. I'm new here so be easy with me. From what I've read end from experince Burl will crack if you look at it wrong. I have just started to turn but I do have some burl. A few monthsback I cut down a Cherry Burl that you can't get a 5foot tape around. I scared that I will lose a large bit of it.Even though with burl time wiil tell I sure don't want to rush it. Thanks for letting me join in.

Robert Arrowood

Originally Posted by Robert Arrowood

A few monthsback I cut down a Cherry Burl that you can't get a 5foot tape around.
Robert Arrowood

PARTY AT THE NEW GUY'S HOUSE!!!


Don't forget to bring your own saws .. I mean .. drinks..

That's a pretty handsmoe skite for a first time poster!

G'day and welcome to the ratbags' abode RA.

Last lot of green Red Mallee Burl I had, I used DNA and soaked it for a week then let the DNA dry to the air. Put them in a brown paper bag and seal the top, place on a shelf for a couple of weeks with air flow around them and they were good to go after that. Oh DNA = Metho

Let them sit for a while, forget about them for about six months

Bdars solution does work, but dont use anything too strong like thinners/acetone without first trying it on an offcut piece. I use it sometimes to alter the surface texture on thin-turned wet bowls, though the resulting creaking & groaning the wood makes can be worrying. IMO burl blanks will most likely always open up and/or bend horribly if dried too quickly or at too hotter temp ie microwaved, because of the uneven stresses released in the dormant buds. For microwave drying a temp of about 80 oC is ideal but can be hard to control or keep constant. Drying cycle times will depend on thickness and density of the piece, but if it starts hissing you know the moisture is starting to boil, its time to pull it out. The brown paper bag trick works well here, but youll need 2 of em. Place blank in one bag, fold over loosely & cook. When you pull it out, swap it into second bag but leave the top open. Wait till it has cooled down before returning it to 1st bag and repeat the process until as Corbs said, it "stopped losing weight".( just like the missus after marriage)

Originally Posted by rowie

. Wait till it has cooled down before returning it to 1st bag and repeat the process until as Corbs said, it "stopped losing weight".( just like the missus after marriage)

Spoken like a man who owns a very comfortable couch ..