Thread: ShellaWax Question

I have an idea... I could set up shop to be a direct seller for your product here in the US! I'll sell it all for you.. You have a great product that many would use here....

jim

If I understand correctly, you guys are saying that shellawax glow is longer lasting then shellawax.If that is right,can you explain the difference between the two.

terry

Terry, Neil would need to answer that, My understanding is that they are both the same in their properties except that Shellawax Glow has a darker look because of whatever they put in it(probably vegemite!!!) That's supposed to be a joke if you are from the US. Amos

As it says here, it's the same as shellawax except that it is darker than regular, more of a honey to tan colour

Hi guys,I use Mylands friction polish,as it's easy for me to get here.
I finally got some EEE Shine in a tub from Lee Valley.I find it fantastic.
My question is,Do you think there's much of a difference between Mylands and Sheelawax polich?
I probably should order a bottle of Shellawax from LV to find out myself.
Yes,I think I will.
In the meantime,any opinions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys,Steve

I have an idea... I could set up shop to be a direct seller for your product here in the US! I'll sell it all for you..

Would be nice, but PSI have sole importation rights for USA on our turning products and with the amount they turn over I doubt anyone else could come near the same figure they do. Just shipped 1.5 cubic meters a few weeks ago, have an other to ship mid Jan for almost 3 cubic mt and a further one for March already ordered of around 2 m3. That's a whole lot of polish.

If I understand correctly, you guys are saying that shellawax low is longer lasting then shellawax.

Nup. Both are pretty much the same. Glow has a slightly brighter shine and will bring out figuring in the grain a bit more than the regular Shellawax.

Both are quite durable if applied properly applied to a timber that does not produce its own natural oils, like NSW Rosewood, Huon Pine, Camphor Laurel, etc. Although they still work extremely well on these timbers but they may dull off.

On pens it is best to apply 2 to 3 coats for the most durable finish and leave it for 3 weeks before putting it into constant use. Can be handled right away but after the 3 weeks has a much higher resistance to marking from alcohol, water and heat as well as people, acid sweat. etc.

Re Mylands and other friction polishes.

To my knowledge most friction polishes other than Speed & Ease and Mr Jamisons (both almost defunct here due to Shellawax) have been cloned (with a modicum of success) from our Shellawaxes. To my knowledge Shellawax is still by far the fastest, best and easiest to use of all the friction polishes.

I have never been interested in trying another friction polish but have seen a couple work and was totally underwhelmed by them. On the other hand I know for a fact, that more than one company, reverse engineered Shellawax within months of it hitting the shelves in the US and came out with what I have been told are their own inferior clones.

Like I said I have never used another friction polish so I really can't comment on the way they work. I can only go by what I have been told over and over again by satisfied users of our products.

Not everyone likes our stuff, but who cares. We each have our own preferences, likes and dislikes. In all the time I have been making our stuff I've only ever heard a couple of genuine criticisms of it and in each case so far it turned out not to be our products that were the problem but the user or the timber.

Sorry to be blowing my own horn here but y'all asked, so it serves you right.

Cheers - Neil

The Shellwax topic just keeps getting more informative, but with the new information comes new questions.

Is there any advantage in putting a coat of microcrystalline wax such as Renaissance Wax over the top of a fully cured Shellwax finish, or is the Shellwax already as durable as the microcrystalline?