Thread: Spalted "Bonewood" ?

they came up a treat as well mate, your on fire

the spalting adds the character the original wood was lacking

keep 'em coming

MIK

Good to see you posting quite a few . It's a worry when Small Timber Milling has more posts than Pen Turning

Looks like Bonewood, but could be spalted Red Ash sapwood, hard to tell without looking closely.

Nice pair John, interesting patterns with the spalting.

Originally Posted by dai sensei

Good to see you posting quite a few . It's a worry when Small Timber Milling has more posts than Pen Turning

Looks like Bonewood, but could be spalted Red Ash sapwood, hard to tell without looking closely.

There appears to be a "lull" in activity in the Pen Turning forum of late, maybe people have moved on from pen turning, or perhaps some of our regular contributors have moved to Facebook?

There appears to be a "lull" in activity in the Pen Turning forum of late, maybe people have moved on from pen turning, or perhaps some of our regular contributors have moved to Facebook?[/QUOTE]

Or maybe its just to freaking hot in the shed.

BTW nice couple of pens John, I always find timber with a bit of spalting attractive.

Hey John,
Another great pair, great work lining up the "grain" or spalting lines,

for some reason I can never seem to get the grain on my lidded pens to line up,
that's one of the reasons I prefer to use burls

John, if you had put that wood on high end kits that had the silver or gun metal or black titanium fittings- they would have made a stunning high end presentation!!! as it is they look very stylish. Amos

Originally Posted by PenTurner

John, if you had put that wood on high end kits that had the silver or gun metal or black titanium fittings- they would have made a stunning high end presentation!!! as it is they look very stylish. Amos

Amos ! the customer saw one of my "Better Fountain pens " in spalted Persimon , but wanted a simpler style ,a bit of a waste of a quality pair of blanks ,but it was all I had on hand ,ah well sunday he will be very impressed with his new pens hehe.
Cheers ~ John

Originally Posted by Beedeejay

Hey John,
Another great pair, great work lining up the "grain" or spalting lines,

for some reason I can never seem to get the grain on my lidded pens to line up,
that's one of the reasons I prefer to use burls

Beedeejay, align the fittings in the *closed* positions before assembly.

Connect the cap and nib section, note both the cap component and nib section component alignments against the finished blank/tubes then do the cap and postable finial noting the alignment on pen body for the finial.

Many caps have triple threads. Don't let this fool you if they don't seem to align properly.

It's tempting to assemble the cap first and test the align against end of the unassembled pen body but make sure you can seperate them just by twisting the component (as this won't be a pen body to twist at this stage DAMHIK) .

It also helps to cut close to length and trim as little as possible in some cases or think about grain patterns at the cut itself and shift a little one way or tuther before cutting.
Clear as mud ?

I've used a few special blanks on simpler pens at the client's request. I try to steer them to harder wearing platings but in the end they want what they want.

I like the right hand one John. Both look great.

Originally Posted by dabbler

I've used a few special blanks on simpler pens at the client's request. I try to steer them to harder wearing platings but in the end they want what they want.

I like the right hand one John. Both look great.

Yes I am not inclined to make slims (made too many when I started on pens) one thing with the stylus tips is to me it makes the balance seem a bit wrong, so after I glue up and its set, I take about 5mm off the cap end ,this still allows the slim kit to assemble as normal ,but shortens the cap end enough that I feel it looks a little better cheers ~ John
Incidently, that particular kit uses stepped tubes ,so the body has three drills used,and the cap has 2 drills used. Allows the slimmer profile ,but can still take an ink converter as normal , I even made a special for SWMBO years ago with a filigree cap, quite a challenge for a Newbie at the time

Originally Posted by Big Shed

Nice pair John, interesting patterns with the spalting.



There appears to be a "lull" in activity in the Pen Turning forum of late, maybe people have moved on from pen turning, or perhaps some of our regular contributors have moved to Facebook?

Or in my case have house up for sale. Had buyer so I started packing the shed. (40 boxes and still not half done). You got it sale fell through. Still considering unpacking and start again.
Cookie

Originally Posted by cookie48

Or in my case have house up for sale. Had buyer so I started packing the shed. (40 boxes and still not half done). You got it sale fell through. Still considering unpacking and start again.
Cookie

Did you consider just packing your stuff, and leave the shed behind I shudder at the thought of trying to gather my stuff to move it ,never gonna happen LOL. Cheers ~ John

Originally Posted by dabbler

Beedeejay, align the fittings in the *closed* positions before assembly.

Connect the cap and nib section, note both the cap component and nib section component alignments against the finished blank/tubes then do the cap and postable finial noting the alignment on pen body for the finial.

Many caps have triple threads. Don't let this fool you if they don't seem to align properly.

It's tempting to assemble the cap first and test the align against end of the unassembled pen body but make sure you can seperate them just by twisting the component (as this won't be a pen body to twist at this stage DAMHIK) .

It also helps to cut close to length and trim as little as possible in some cases or think about grain patterns at the cut itself and shift a little one way or tuther before cutting.
Clear as mud ?

thanks Doug,
i think I get it