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Thread: Spalted "Bonewood" ?
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24th January 2014, 08:57 PM #1
Spalted "Bonewood" ?
A Nice pair for a customer ,nothing fancy , a slim Stylus and a designer fountain pen (getting hard to find these, I had to modify a rollerball kit) Cheers ~ John
G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
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24th January 2014 08:57 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th January 2014, 09:22 PM #2
they came up a treat as well mate, your on fire
the spalting adds the character the original wood was lacking
keep 'em coming
MIKNo Result Without Effort
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25th January 2014, 09:38 AM #3
Good to see you posting quite a few . It's a worry when Small Timber Milling has more posts than Pen Turning
Looks like Bonewood, but could be spalted Red Ash sapwood, hard to tell without looking closely.Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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25th January 2014, 10:48 AM #4
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25th January 2014, 11:28 AM #5
There appears to be a "lull" in activity in the Pen Turning forum of late, maybe people have moved on from pen turning, or perhaps some of our regular contributors have moved to Facebook?[/QUOTE]
Or maybe its just to freaking hot in the shed.
BTW nice couple of pens John, I always find timber with a bit of spalting attractive.Regards Rumnut.
SimplyWoodwork
Qld. Australia.
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25th January 2014, 07:10 PM #6
Hey John,
Another great pair, great work lining up the "grain" or spalting lines,for some reason I can never seem to get the grain on my lidded pens to line up,
that's one of the reasons I prefer to use burls
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28th January 2014, 08:05 PM #7
John, if you had put that wood on high end kits that had the silver or gun metal or black titanium fittings- they would have made a stunning high end presentation!!! as it is they look very stylish. Amos
Good, better, best, never let it rest;
Til your good is better, and your
better, best.
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28th January 2014, 08:14 PM #8G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
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28th January 2014, 08:46 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Beedeejay, align the fittings in the *closed* positions before assembly.
Connect the cap and nib section, note both the cap component and nib section component alignments against the finished blank/tubes then do the cap and postable finial noting the alignment on pen body for the finial.
Many caps have triple threads. Don't let this fool you if they don't seem to align properly.
It's tempting to assemble the cap first and test the align against end of the unassembled pen body but make sure you can seperate them just by twisting the component (as this won't be a pen body to twist at this stage DAMHIK) .
It also helps to cut close to length and trim as little as possible in some cases or think about grain patterns at the cut itself and shift a little one way or tuther before cutting.
Clear as mud ?
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28th January 2014, 08:51 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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I've used a few special blanks on simpler pens at the client's request. I try to steer them to harder wearing platings but in the end they want what they want.
I like the right hand one John. Both look great.
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28th January 2014, 09:13 PM #11
Yes I am not inclined to make slims (made too many when I started on pens) one thing with the stylus tips is to me it makes the balance seem a bit wrong, so after I glue up and its set, I take about 5mm off the cap end ,this still allows the slim kit to assemble as normal ,but shortens the cap end enough that I feel it looks a little better cheers ~ John
Incidently, that particular kit uses stepped tubes ,so the body has three drills used,and the cap has 2 drills used. Allows the slimmer profile ,but can still take an ink converter as normal , I even made a special for SWMBO years ago with a filigree cap, quite a challenge for a Newbie at the timeG'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
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28th January 2014, 11:22 PM #12Old Fart (my step daughters named me)
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28th January 2014, 11:36 PM #13
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29th January 2014, 12:15 AM #14
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