Thread: tool chatter

Tools sharp?

Sharpening angle correct?

Tool rest at correct height?

Tool rest close enough to work?

I often knock the corners off blanks before actually turning. I do this on a disc sander.
Another way is to use a 4"angle grinder as a roughing gouge!!

I don't know if this will help but I had very minimal chatter made kind of like a buzzing or humming noise until doing this

http://youtu.be/hMDFrGkAIyk

I had some blanks where all that would work is scraping?

Sharp is important .

Are you riding the bevel?

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Roughing gouges are for roughing not for fine turning. Yes you can use them but the angle is abrupt so they will go blunt quickly and on acrylics can be a real problem.

My weapon of choice is a 3/4" spindle gouge but sharpened at 30 degrees so it has a similar cutting angle to skews. I also hold it at an angle to the work, not square on, in a cutting action similar to a skew. Others tools are skews, bowl gouges and other spindle gouges. The ONLY scraper I use is a negative raked scraper for final trimming/shaping, or round TC bits on super hard and abrasive materials.

Many thanks everyone, l have some checking to do first up (thanks for the video Adrian).

Then reducing the sharp corners, (angle grinder) thats when they explode.

Then trying a 3/4" S/Gouge sharpened to 30 degree's.

Dave TTC, can you explain "riding the bevel" (HaHa, Missus name is Bev - we won't go there) haven't heard that expression?

I'll get back with some feedback in the next week.

Thanks again
Stevo

Steve,

I'll stay away from your missus (otherwise all sorts of trouble could ensue).

Riding the Bev el is when you maintain contact with the heel of the chisel as well as using the sharp edge to cut. That ground surface is called the bevel.

By using the heel as your pivot point you can control how deep your cut is.

Where abouts are you. I'm sure someone here would be happy to drop around and give you some pointers


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

TBC will get rid of your tool chatter.
Proper razor sharp tools will also help.

Les

G'day,

+1 for what Dai Sensei describes, I find a spindle gouge ground at about 30 degrees best and presented to the work at an angle gives me the best cut. I also use a carbide cutter (pen pro) BUT you must have it cutting on the centreline!

Regards,
Cam

Chatter can be caused by many things as noted above, one thing not mentioned and to consider is that when you are turning a square blank on a mandrel there is flex of the mandrel as your trying to cut away the corners, there is also slippage being caused as the blocks are being held in place by friction only.

Some considerations,

Turn the blank round first before drilling for the mandrel, prevents flexing and slippage
Use sharp tools, probably resharpen gouges / spindles after maybe every three pens depending on how hard the wood is,
Angle your tool be it spindle or gouge or skew so that way the leading edge is further away than the trailing edge, this way you are trimming it away in a more gentle fashion
Once its round, go to town on it, sharp tools clean cuts

Steve

Members, thanks for all your helpful replies.

Ok, after doing some soul searching, l have been sacked as rabbi - my tools were NOT sharp enough, especially for "poly resin" blanks, timber and acrylic were ok for my blunt tools.

I did check the mandrel it was "dicky" so l got another (much better).

Ground the 3/4" spindle gouge down to 30 deg's.

"DaveTTC", l'll go to the local turners guild and get them to show me Bevel riding (no luck with the local bev-el)

"Les in Red Deer" what is TBC? I'm no good on abbr, yet l use them sometimes

l brought some carbide cutters but have to get a shaft to screw them into.

l took the edges off the blanks by using my old ryobi belt sander upside down, as a linisher, that did help a lot.

Brought a little Aldi grinder with a pink stone wheel, to sharpen the tools then l use a diamond plate or gouge wet stone, as recommended by Leonard Lee in his book.

Last but not least, l used the leading/trailing edge, just take my time, l reckon sometimes in the past l've just gone in a tad hard (that sounds bad, doesn't it)

Did a pen (poly resin) this afternoon and had a small blow out when the pen was round but l reckon my angle was too parallel/flat to the tool rest, lack of concentration.

Now all l need to do is figure out how to sharpen the six bladed cutter used for squaring the blank, once the tube has been glued, no real luck, tried a small file - not consistent with the sharpness

Again thank you one and all for taking the time to educate a new pen wrecker/novice.

Cheers
Stevo

Stevo,

I would recommend woodcut tru grind sharpening jig or one made by VicMarc.

Not sure what your doing this weekend and where you are but I'm in Jerilderie, NSW and having a forum get together sat - mon. Welcome to come, there will be at least three lathes set up and other tools available and a range of tutors and mentors. No charge to come.


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

Thanks Dave for the heads up on the "Tru Grind system", l'll put a link in this post for anyone else, there is a smal video as well, looks a easy system to use and set-up.

http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/ite...rpening-system

I'm way down the bottom of Vic and l'm working this weekend, but thanks for the offer,

Stevo

im only three hours north of Melbourne


Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

im only three hours north of Melbourne

Have you fitted that jet engine to your car Dave

Have fun mate, the big fella is on his way, but I can't make it