this is the video I was refering to Artisans of Australia: Timbercraft - YouTube
the film was made by Screen Australia back in 1983

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regards from Sydney

ian

Thanks so much for that Ian , just wish it had gone for a few hours.
I learnt so much looking at it. Loved the big froe, putting a big long handle on the large one I have after seeing this.

That's such a good film. I enjoyed watching that again. Thanks Ian.
Just in case anyone is unaware, Mic-d asked the question about axes nearly 4 years ago. He may have found his answer by now.
I think I will go and watch that film again. I'd like to know if we can view any of the others in the series.

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Built: a Bench, a Desk, an Archery Display, Planning a DVD Storage Unit,
If we are being chased by zombies, I WILL trip you.

Tony what do you want to go and spoil a perfectly good thread for? who cares if its 4 years old I was going to tell Mick to talk to my Dad, he cut logs and sleepers for many years by hand back in the 50's he still has his broad axes, left, right and straight, they used to make all there own handles to suit. To scrape and smooth the handles they used to break a bottle and use the glass as a scraper. Lots of good stories about bullockies, snakes, goannas etc

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www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au

A good edge takes a little sweat!!

Claw

talk to your dad about working timber by hand, what each of the different axes were used for -- then write it down and post it here

I for one would like to hear more from an old time axeman / timber getter

__________________
regards from Sydney

ian

Not ignoring this, just have little to add Ian, your post makes sense, but with these small one-handed axes, I only see the need for both if you can't move the work or yourself, mostly one would suffice, this is what I have found.

Oh, for heaven's sake.
If it was your job, your sole source of income, don't you think that you would own the necessary tools of your trade???????????
To own and use left and right side axes for deleterious needs these days might border on silly.
I pick and scavenge logs. I split those logs. I split off the timbers, the boards, that I need.
4" x 6" x 24" not a problem. 3/8" x 6" x 24" A little bit of a fuss to get the cant just righ!!!!

Please come and visit. June/July, we can putz around for any wood you might desire.

By the way Ian, I wanted to say thanks for the Timbercraft video, very enjoyable watch.

Cheers
Michael

Hi mic-d
this sounds as though you might be refering to a carvers axe, rather than a two-handed side-axe

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regards from Sydney

ian

I was always referring to a hatchet-sized side axe, I think I did in my first post many years go. Somebody else mentioned broad axes and such. I don't know whether it is called a carvers axe or not, I have never heard that term. But what I'm talking about, I have come to know as a Kentish pattern side axe, and one serves me admirably.

Cheers
Michael

I recently bought this axe off ebay:

http://s1222.photobucket.com/albums/...3-03211530.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd481/Weaverofduart/2012-03-03211530.jpg

http://s1222.photobucket.com/albums/...3-03211604.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd481/Weaverofduart/2012-03-03211604.jpg

http://s1222.photobucket.com/albums/...3-03211534.jpg target=_blank><img src=http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd481/Weaverofduart/2012-03-03211534.jpg

It was described to me as ready to use with a tiny amount of damage to one end. Well it is not in really bad condition but its certainly not ready to use.

Questions:

Can anyone identify the pattern? Based on how thin the bit is I'd say its a finishing axe but from when and where?

The cutting edge is mostly straight, at the front and rear of the cutting edge it curves up by about 2mm out of dead straight line. Would the original grind have ben dead straight but its worn more at the front and rear our would it have been more convex in shape having worn more in the middle?

The back is not flat but is concave, like a japanese chisel. This mean that although the back is pitted it should still be posible to get a good edge. Espeacially if it is possible to hammer the edge like you would with a jp chisel and then grind it flat before redoing the single bevel. Has ant one heard of doing this with a european style axe before?

this might help somewhat Gränsfors Bruks AB - Carpenter's Axe

or this Axes

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regards from Sydney

ian

Hi Ian,

This axe head is a lot bigger than that carving axe. The cutting edge is nearly 12" long (290mm) compar ed to 3.5 inches.

Found one that I reckon is a match.

Tool Exchange - Axes Hatchets

Scroll down to 2496.

If it is a match then it would seem to suggest that I should take of a lot of steel to make the cutting edge convex again.

maybe
could be there's not enough steel left to do that curving

the current edge looks like it's been deliberately straightened, I wonder why

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regards from Sydney

ian