Thread: gutter woes

The box gutter has either not been installed correctly or as you say is too small, or both.

Are the down pipes you mentioned actually servicing the box gutter or are they for the eaves gutters?
Is there an overflow pipe on the box gutter - a small length of pipe poking out the end of the box gutter or maybe on the bottom of the gutter.
It's a bit hard to tell how much will need replacing without actually seeing it, don't suppose you could post some pictures. It sounds like water is getting into the roof space and wall cavity, this is not good as wall frames etc may be damaged.
You will almost definitly have to replace the gutter at least

As far as getting someone to fix it I could do it if I was in adelaide as I have a licence in both trades, this is not the norm and you are going to find it difficult to to find someone to do a good job in both aspects of the job.
Many tradespeople stay away from box gutters as they can be a nightmare.But try ringing a few differant blokes maybe a roofer a carpenter and a builder and when they come out really quiz them about how they are going to rectify the problem.
A couple of things to remember

1. an internal box gutter should have at least two downpipes or one downpipe and one overflow.

2. The top edge of the box gutter should extend up between the roof batten and the roof sheeting at least 150 mm.

3. If you find the person who installed the original box gutter beat him to death with a blunt instument

as julian said, we need some pictures to give any worthwhile advice meg.
sounds like you're not intending to try and fix it yourself, try your local paper for handyman/no job too small type guys to come and have a look at it.

Meg,

Was the water damage mentioned anywhere on the Building inspection report? Sounds like it should have been a pretty obvious problem for an inspector to pick up on :mad:

I thought the building inspector should have picked it up too. Nor did he notice the salt damp!!!

When I accepted his report I signed a disclaimer stating I wouldn't hold him accountable etc etc

Am pretty off really -- I probably wouldn't have gone ahead with the purchase if I had known how much work was going to be needed on the cottage. Shan't recommend him to anyone else.

Thanks for your info, guys. I had a builder come out to inspect the water damage. He told me that box gutters work better when they have a box like structure attached to the downpipe -- he called it something but I have forgotten and recommended someone to do the job for me.

He also told me that to replace the rotten beams would mean pulling the roof off - big job. He didn't think the damage bad enough to bring the roof down, but told me to be mindful of it with a view to replacing the beam in the future. Would this be able to be done when I get around to replacing the roof, which won't be too far off in the future I fear?

Is there a licensing body in S,A for inspectors? If so check with them regarding the validity of the waiver you signed. Even without a licensing body it seems to me (totally untrained in law ) that the waiver wouldn't be worth anything anyway. It would be like me getting you to sign a waiver to the effect that if any of my work is defective then you won't have any right to have it rectified. In Qld inspectors must have proffesional idemnity insurance for cases such as yours. You could also try your states consumer affairs/fair trading department. Good luck,

Mick

Mick's on the money.

No one can eliminate their responsiblities by making the client sign a disclaimer to the effect that they are not responsible / liable for their own work.

Fixing the gutters should not be a major deal.

Some pictures would help.

Pulpo

Meg the others have covered most of it, but its confusing whether you have a box gutter or an eaves gutter. The box-like structure you speak of is more than likely a rainhead.

The inspector should be answerable to the Adelaide Office of Fair Trading and Business Affairs -- Licencing on 8204 9644.

If you have someone to fix it make sure you get a quote first.

I'm south of Adelaide and if you get into trouble give me a yell for a second opinion.

thanks, guys for all your help and advice. It is comforting to know there are lots of you out there that know what you are doing and happy to offer advise.

My one good news about my cottage is what I thought was salt damp isn't after all

I am getting some quotes on the work needed re the water seepage. I am already feeling better.

there is a company in south aus called "gutta liner" or "gutta guard" or something lika that . look it up on yahoo. it is some sort of plastic liner tha ya put in ya gutter to fix leaks. (think it comes from the barrossa) i was going to use it on a box gutter that was badly corroded but coundnt gat the boss to agree to it. used tar paint instead.(messy stuff)

I am taking your advice and chasing up the building inspector who overlooked the problems that have come to light. Not quite sure how to go about this, but I feel I do need some sort of redress especially as any reparation work is going to be expensive. I have contacted the Master Builders' Association in my state and am waiting to hear back from them. I have also engaged (more expense) a bloke from the Archicentre to have a look through and give me an idea of what needs to be done to address the water seepage and how much it will cost. I have a brand new larger gutter and downpipes so the water from roof is now clearing away adequately, but there is still a problem with water entering the wall cavities from below. I also notice that my French door don't sit on the cement slab, but are butted up against it. Consequently the main frame is rotting from underneath. I am at wits end!
Do builders have any sort of indemnity insurance for this sort of thing? Will I have to go down the legal pathway throwing a whole lot of money at lawyers? After a sticky divorce doing just that, I am loathe to go through the exercise again and would rather spend the money fixing up the cottage. Don't think I will ever buy another house again. Once bitten twice shy!

Meg - Assuming he trades as a company, then the Trade Practices Act will imply terms into your contract, including a warranty that the services will be provided with due care and skill (see http://scaleplus.law.gov.au/html/pas...0/PA003360.htm). These implied terms cannot be exlcuded (see http://scaleplus.law.gov.au/html/pas...0/PA003260.htm). So, the waiver might be effective in excluding him from liability in negligence (depending on how it is drafted), but it won't be effective in excluding him from liability under the TPA.

If he doesn't trade as a company, then there may be State legislation (using called the Fair Trading Act) which has a similar effect.

Your issue is going to be proving that he failed to provide the services with "due care and skill".

I have some wood rot in the ends of my exposed beams. I have to replace the roof but have been told that even though there is rot, the remaining timber is solid and the integrity of the roof is not compromised. I have been advised not to replace the beams but rather bog up the damaged bits. Is there a company/tradesperson out there (I live in Adelaide) who can assess the damage from a repair point of view and do the bogging for me? Or indeed tell me that it is probably better to get them out and replace while the roof is off. Thanks guys.

Unless corrected by other learned forum members, Ive always thought that wood rot will continue to rot even if 'bogged up' and should be replaced.This would certainly be easier with the roof covering off.