Thread: Reblocking - Which Levelling Device To Use?

Is this what you saw been used or similar?

Metal Head,
there's nothing wrong with using a water level, they're cheap and accurate. The device the second lot was probably a laser with a receiver unit. They can be hired. A laser may not be the best tool for this job because the beam would be blocked by some of the stumps closer to the head unit. There may be some other electronic devices out there but I've haven't heard of them.

You can make up a water level with a reservoir at one end and a tap on the working end which can be operated by one person. Doesn't depend on line of site and as long as you make sure there's no trapped air bubbles or anything pinching the hose will be as accurate as the laser.

Mick

I'm more curious as to why you had to get reblockers back after 2 years

I had my house restumped around 4 years ago by a fellow from Dandinong and IMO done a real SH*T job

Like you I expected him to use a laser and/or some hi-tech device but he used a water level and a Sh*t load of truck bottle jacks

I'm with Mick, go the water level - use a fixed bucket of water as the datum, with the other end free (for levelling).

I used a laser level (a cheap one mind you) when I did the stumps for the deck and it was a mess. I ended up using the water level to do the final levelling. Water levels are very accurate and much more flexible.

I now use the water level whenever I need to level anything that is significantly longer than my spirit level.

I'm a big fan of the humble water level, but if you make the tube too long and or too small, it takes FOREVER to level itself.

I've used mine for lots of applications, from land levels to setting up my foundations on the extension and with great results.

Yep water levels are great but trust me, If you have few hundred dollars to spare then Rotary Laser Level are are lot more fun

Yeah, but the rotary laser level might not be that great if you have a forest of house stumps to work on as the ones closer to the unit will block the beam in places. It will work fine if you can find somewhere to hang it that will allow the beam to get to all/most of the stumps.

Mick

Hi Lads,

Thanks to all of you who replied - much appreciated. In regards to the laser level - that wasn't what was used. The measuring instrument (receiver) I am sure it was free of any wiring (that's why I thought it was electronic). Given that was moved around within the house thus it would be a laser!!. I made myself a water level after the first gang had left so I could check the levelness of the house should further cracking take place. I will get it out again sometime in the next week and see that the tolerances are within the regulations guidelines.

Cheers
MH

Hi MH,
Just for info, the chimney is always used as the reference point because it is the most stable part of the house, being built up from brick and having a more solid and wider based foundation (compared to the stumps); is hence is the part of the house which would have moved least over the years. You'll find that the area of the house near the chimney would be the highest, while the floors further away & especially the perimeters of the house (which have to bear most of the load of the roofs) will have settled / dropped the most.

Originally Posted by Metal Head

Hi Lads,

Thanks to all of you who replied - much appreciated. In regards to the laser level - that wasn't what was used. The measuring instrument (receiver) I am sure it was free of any wiring (that's why I thought it was electronic). Given that was moved around within the house thus it would be a laser!!.

Cheers
MH

I've seen gps systems used a bit more now days, they are super expensive but dont require line of sight to work. They refence satelite technology same as your average gps in car, but give you heights as well.

Originally Posted by Ashwood

Hi MH,
Just for info, the chimney is always used as the reference point because it is the most stable part of the house, being built up from brick and having a more solid and wider based foundation (compared to the stumps); is hence is the part of the house which would have moved least over the years. You'll find that the area of the house near the chimney would be the highest, while the floors further away & especially the perimeters of the house (which have to bear most of the load of the roofs) will have settled / dropped the most.

That wouldn't work at our place cause the bearers were anchored to the chimmney......and a total lack of dampcourse resulted in the ends of the bearers heading south due to dry rot. They managed to sink further than the old timber stumps did!!

I have just done my house (about 42 stumps and on a slope) using the water level and it works a gem. Put a drop of dishwashing liqid in to minimise the miniscus (the capilary attraction that makes the water "hold" on to the side of the hose) and to reduce time waiting for the water to stop bouncing around just very briefly put your thumb over the end of the hose when you think it's about level. This saves you weighting ages for it to equalise.

Originally Posted by bricks

I've seen gps systems used a bit more now days, they are super expensive but dont require line of sight to work. They refence satelite technology same as your average gps in car, but give you heights as well.

But the survey guys at uni last week told us gps systems can only get to within 100mm which is not even close for levelling a house. Or have they improved the system?

If your making a water level make sure that you add some food colouring to the water as it makes it easer to see/read