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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    11

    Default Sealing Ceiling Dust & Installing Insulation

    Hi,

    I've been reading the Home Renovation Forum for some time now and really appreciate all the useful advice and opinions. As I'm now embarking upon a major renovation of an old Queenslander, its time for my first post.

    I'd appreciate some advice on how to seal our ceiling

    The existing ceiling is made from tongue and groove boards and over 100 years of movement in the house has opened up significant gaps which allow the ceiling dust to fall into the main house. I've cleaned up all the ceiling dust (after finding out too late about the risks of lead in it on another thread) and now want to stop the dut from falling in future. No more gaps is no good, as it just cracks with time in a Queenslander and we want to keep the T&G look as it is classical for the period.

    I've thought about just laying fibreglass batts, but I think with time the fibre will fall through, along with dust around the edges.

    I wonder what people think about laying some sarking over the ceiling and rafters (shiny side down) essentially as a dust lining and insulation layer and then laying batts over the top of that. This doesn't comply with the suggestion to leave an air-gap on the shiny side. Essentially what I'm thinking is to have an arrangement similar to the batts with foil lining on one side, but use continuous sheeting to add the dust proofing.

    We have a pitched roof with flat ceiling, so space isn't an issue. There is currently no insulation to speak of. The roof needs replacing at some stage in the future, so we'll probably get anticon or similar put down directly under the tin then.

    Does this sound feasible, or are there any better ideas out there?

    Also, should I do this prior to installation of any down lights and cut out the required spaces once they are ready to be installed, or wait until the down lights are installed and then do the insulation and lining?

    Many thanks...
    No Pain no Gain! :U

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    722

    Default

    After reading the fisrt couple of lines I was going to suggest sarking ... but you've already come up with the idea! Sounds the easiest option to me. Get a staple gun to hold it in place and then add isnulation over the top, it will make a huge differnce I'm sure.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks OBBob!

    I think shiny side down is best according to http://www.greenhouse.gov.au/yourhom...ical/fs16b.htm do you agree?

    What do you think about installing before or after the down lights are in?

    Cheers, and happy new year.
    No Pain no Gain! :U

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks very mcuh OBBob.

    What do you think about the order of work... is it generally best to get it done, and then cut out areas as needed for lighting etc or wait until afterwards and then fit around?

    cheers.
    No Pain no Gain! :U

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    722

    Default

    Hi L

    I haven't ever done what you are proposing, however insulation bats play hell with drill bits but sarking is fine! So, if I were to do such job I'd probably lay the sarking and try to staple it in place. Then use a hole saw to fit the down lights, then fit the batts later ... remembering to leave the required clearance around the fittings.

    I'm not actually sure if it is ok to have the sarking that close to the fittings, you should check. If it requires a larger clearance I still think I'd do it the same way and then just get up top and cut a larger square around each hole. I'm sure this would be easier than trying to fit it around the lights later.

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