Thread: Which floor oil is clearest?

You will be wanting something like this. Clear Floor.

Nope. Just said it couldn't be a varnish. Has to be an oil or wax

Bits of the rest of the house have been done with linseed oil/turps , which I think is too dark. Reminds me of old schoolroom floors.

Looking for something a bit clearer than that.

tung oil is lighter than linseed but not much.

i did a quick search on google and came across this... dunno if its of any help... they have an oil product and they dont mention any colouring...

http://www.energyandwatersolutions.com.au/oil/oils.htm

Originally Posted by kleinzeit

Just got done with sanding back a jarrah floor. The next job is to oil or wax it. It's a long story, but the house isn't mine, and the owner won't have me varnish/polyurethane/estapol them, so I'll have to oil or wax them.

My question is this: Which products can I then use to get the clearest finish? I Don't want the dark brown you get with linseed oil, I want to be able to see the grain through it.

Thanks.

If your client wants only oil then Howard products sell pure tung oil with orange oil for floors. Don't use linseed, it is not hardwaring and don't use pure tung oil neat because it takes days to dry between coats. Don't use wax either on bare timber flooring; it's a complete waste of money and effort and there is no protection on the surface as it will scratch very easily and wax does not like moisture.

Feast Watson have a very good product for flooring called Floorseal and China wood oil. The floorseal is a tougher finish as it contains some poly and does not darken the timber

Check out
http://www.howardproducts.com.au/pro...e_tung_oil.htm

http://www.feastwatson.com.au/FloorFloorseal.asp

http://www.feastwatson.com.au/FloorChinaWoodOil.asp

Cheers, Evan

I'm sanding my floor next week and I have the same questions to ask. Dusty, great site and lovely careful work, but poly is on the way out mate. The one option I don't know much about is a finish that requires polishing. Does anyone (Evan?) know about products, problems, trafficability etc re a finish like this.

Livos Ardvos looks good, Tung oil is very in at the mo. FeastWatson have MSDS's (Material Safety Data Sheets) online, v impressive.

Also I have defects (small bits chipped out, badly mitred areas around corner fireplace, old discoloured nail holes) and up to 2mm gaps in old flooring, mostly cypress, alongside very nice new flooring, all cypress. Can I fill with a filler/sawdust method: partially use filler before sanding then smear with PVA regularly while sanding?? I've done this to good effect with furniture but would it work on flooring.

Good luck Klein , Nick

Originally Posted by bnpenty

I'm sanding my floor next week and I have the same questions to ask. Dusty, great site and lovely careful work, but poly is on the way out mate. The one option I don't know much about is a finish that requires polishing. Does anyone (Evan?) know about products, problems, trafficability etc re a finish like this.

Livos Ardvos looks good, Tung oil is very in at the mo. FeastWatson have MSDS's (Material Safety Data Sheets) online, v impressive.

Also I have defects (small bits chipped out, badly mitred areas around corner fireplace, old discoloured nail holes) and up to 2mm gaps in old flooring, mostly cypress, alongside very nice new flooring, all cypress. Can I fill with a filler/sawdust method: partially use filler before sanding then smear with PVA regularly while sanding?? I've done this to good effect with furniture but would it work on flooring.

Good luck Klein , Nick

I strongly advise you not to use PVA glue to close up the small gaps between boards because they need to move otherwise there is every possibility that they will crack. You can use a flexible filler specifically for gap filling between boards or use long lengths of cork specific for these applications.

Poly is a harder finish than oil. If you are doing the job yourself and don't like the poly then have a look at the products listed in the websites I've posted previously. The big plus with oil finishes is that light scuff marks can be repaired very easily by lightly sanding the affected area and re-oiling. I don't know about every floor finishing product on the market and only comment on what I have used.

Hope this helps, Evan

Originally Posted by bnpenty

... but poly is on the way out mate.

Why is poly on the way out. What is replacing it?

Went for the Feast Watson China Wood Oil in the end. It's way darker than the samples lead you to believe but it looks pretty good so far. Let you know after third coat.

Are you using a lambswool roller Klein? Why pick China WO over, say,Tung Oil? I'm sanding this w/e and making my choice of finish I guess next week. Good luck with the varnishing, how does it look so far?

We used Treatex, hard-drying wax finish - chose a satin finish. Had the work done last year, over 6 months ago. I just love the finish. It's very easy to maintain. Had a few scratches when the kitchen was installed (after the floors got polished) and all we did was apply some oil to the scratches and voila! the marks disappeared/blended into the floor that no-one notices. The floor has a beautiful sheen and is so silky to walk on. Like I said, I just LOVE IT!!

Chose China wood oil over tung as I heard tung took a long time to cure, and I couldn't be buggered working it into the wood as much as tung requires. Used a lambswool sock round one of those wood block on a stick applicators and just wiped it on.
Very easy application. Quick to dry.

Also, Dulux factory is about 2 minutes away.


The china wood oil is a pretty matt finish and is quite dark, but has a nice effect. Theres still a bit of oil on the surface when I rub it with a cloth, so I guess I'll have to buff it a bit or wait a little longer but I'm satisfied.

Don't choose this option if you want light coloured boards.