Thread: Footings to set?

Originally Posted by Spelunx

How long does it take for concrete footings to set?

.

The next day, the concrete is set enough to work on, after about 10 days it reaches 90% of its max strength.


Al

Make sure you brace the poles well if your expecting to get final bracing from your footing depth... If the poles loosen in the conc you get less bracing... We use rapid for most decks but also use styrups and not poles straight into conc...(standard conc when posts used) Low balconies get 24hrs min and larger balconies we leave 3 days but we always brace the structure to the max whilst building it.... I'd leave yours 5 days prob to be safe

If time is against you do like we do and pre prepare as much as possible while your waiting so when its ready you can fly straight into it

www.dialadeck.com.au


cheers ute mad

Originally Posted by UteMad

Make sure you brace the poles well if your expecting to get final bracing from your footing depth... If the poles loosen in the conc you get less bracing... We use rapid for most decks but also use styrups and not poles straight into conc...(standard conc when posts used) Low balconies get 24hrs min and larger balconies we leave 3 days but we always brace the structure to the max whilst building it.... I'd leave yours 5 days prob to be safe

If time is against you do like we do and pre prepare as much as possible while your waiting so when its ready you can fly straight into it

www.dialadeck.com.au


cheers ute mad

Thanks for the help, Ute Mad

Just a couple of questions for you:

When you say: "Brace the structure to the max" What exactly does this mean? More than a bit of 40 by 40 on each side? What is the best way to brace the poles?

Also, what sort of stuff do you pre-prepare? Are you talking about cutting bearers and joists?

Cheers

Jayson.

Bracing: Timber (or other) strut from top of each pole to bottom of neighbouring pole. All four neighbours if possible, minimum of two neighbours.

Joe

Hi Spelunx
Sorry for being vague you get used to talking to blokes on site who are used to my ways....

To brace the poles i'd use 4x2 or 4x3 run on the diagonal from the bottom of the pole near your concrete up to the top of the pole .... On one side do both ways (crisscross)and the others one way might be enough.... what you aiming to achieve is that your poles are almost as stable as when the deck is finished this way you won't disturb the footings and once you plumb your poles you'll be confident they stay that way.....
As for pre prep you cut.... sort ....measure ....seal ...anything that can be done now so that you don't get slowed down once you start construction.... Also take the time now to figure out as many problems you think you might have so they are solved before you get to them...
Hopefully your not like me and do it whilst your sleeping cause i reckon i build every deck atleast 3 times 2 whilst asleep and once on the job

I expect to see photo's of the finished result soon!!!!

cheers Ute Mad

www.dialadeck.com.au

Ps just notice my site is advertised on the top of this forum

Originally Posted by UteMad

Hi Spelunx
Sorry for being vague you get used to talking to blokes on site who are used to my ways....

To brace the poles i'd use 4x2 or 4x3 run on the diagonal from the bottom of the pole near your concrete up to the top of the pole .... On one side do both ways (crisscross)and the others one way might be enough.... what you aiming to achieve is that your poles are almost as stable as when the deck is finished this way you won't disturb the footings and once you plumb your poles you'll be confident they stay that way.....
As for pre prep you cut.... sort ....measure ....seal ...anything that can be done now so that you don't get slowed down once you start construction.... Also take the time now to figure out as many problems you think you might have so they are solved before you get to them...
Hopefully your not like me and do it whilst your sleeping cause i reckon i build every deck atleast 3 times 2 whilst asleep and once on the job

I expect to see photo's of the finished result soon!!!!

cheers Ute Mad

www.dialadeck.com.au

Ps just notice my site is advertised on the top of this forum

Cheers Ute Mad.

I had a look at your site the other day, and if I could mine looking half as good as those, I will be a happy man!

Quick question for you: I am going to do a post and rail style balistrading, using 90 x 35 mm top and bottom rail, and 40 by 40 balisters. Is that roughly the same dimensions as the balisters in picture 5, under the balconies section of your site? It's the pic of the white balisters and the red brick house. I just picked those sizes out of the air, so I would appreciated your advice on whether it will look good or not.

Also, should I use structural pine for the rail and balisters? I wasn't too sure.

Cheers again

Jayson.

Hi Jayson

Thanks for the complements mate

Yeah i know the pick you mean....
That handrail was made from 88 x 42 primed treated pine.. the ballesters are 42 x 32 losp treated pine... The thing the photo doesn't show is that the top and bottom have been routed out by hand to take the ballesters( custom ) as the customer wanted a 4 inch flat top and a thin look....

90 x 35 is in my opnion to thin for a top rail !!

Your better off if you want that sort of look a lot easier is to use a 88 x 42 on the flat as the top and put a 66 x 42 under it on edge flush with the inside of the top then fit a 66 x 42 on edge at the bottom and just nail the ballesters on the front ...its a lot easier and quicker....
You can no longer use cca rougher header for handrails
so use either losp primed or losp rougher header

if you want a pick of the handrail i described pm me and i'll send you one

Top right photo in the balconie section is the one i described above... Very similar!!!!!!!

cheers Ute Mad

www.dialadeck.com.au

Yeah i know the pick you mean....
That handrail was made from 88 x 42 primed treated pine.. the ballesters are 42 x 32 losp treated pine... The thing the photo doesn't show is that the top and bottom have been routed out by hand to take the ballesters( custom ) as the customer wanted a 4 inch flat top and a thin look....

Cheers.

90 x 35 is in my opnion to thin for a top rail !!

Bugger, that is what I had planned to use. 90 x 35 top and bottom, routed out at the top, and routed and cut-out for the bottom to allow for drainage. Maybe I should ramp it up to 90 x 45? What do you reckon? The balusters I had planned to use are 42 x 42.

Your better off if you want that sort of look a lot easier is to use a 88 x 42 on the flat as the top and put a 66 x 42 under it on edge flush with the inside of the top then fit a 66 x 42 on edge at the bottom and just nail the ballesters on the front ...its a lot easier and quicker....

I can see how this would be easier, but I really wanted more of a look like the first pic, but with square balusters. You have inspired me to look further into how this could be achieved easier though, so any suggestions would be gratefully accepted.

You can no longer use cca rougher header for handrails
so use either losp primed or losp rougher header

Why can't you use CCA for handrails? Bugger

My plan was to use the CCA, but run it through the router to round the edges off, then paint it.

Can I get LOSP here in WA? I will have a chat to my supplier here, to see what they reccomend.

Hi Mate 42 x 42 ballesters are fine just they don't serve any purpose other than they are square and cost more..... If you use 42 x 32 you look at the 42 side anyway......

CCA is no longer legal in nsw for handrail as they are concerned with chemical transfer.......

88 x 42 primed LOSP is what we used for that photo.....

Even with the 88 x 42 you have to put a little support leg out of either rail or ballester in the middle under the bot rail to stop it bowing down over time....

You can get a pre routered bot rail but it usually out of 66 x 35 so will be slightly smaller than the top ...... The timber yard should be able to mill the top rail for 100 bucks all you need is a 12 mm deep groove 2mm wider than the ballester .....

The bottom you can do the same as the top then just rip one side off and plane a bevel for the water to get off......

Sorry didn't read your post carefully.... Easy way get a 19 x 19 bead and screw it on to the top and bot for the channel you need to fix the ballesters to....not prob as strong but done by most cause routing takes time $$$$$

Cheers ute mad

ps condition of all advicce is that a finished photo is posted up here for all to admire

Hi Mate 42 x 42 ballesters are fine just they don't serve any purpose other than they are square and cost more..... If you use 42 x 32 you look at the 42 side anyway......

Thats a good point, I will talk to my supplier.

CCA is no longer legal in nsw for handrail as they are concerned with chemical transfer.......

OK, now I understand. I thought it was only the older style garden logs and sleepers that were not used anymore.....

88 x 42 primed LOSP is what we used for that photo.....

Even with the 88 x 42 you have to put a little support leg out of either rail or ballester in the middle under the bot rail to stop it bowing down over time....

Got that one under control. Planning to put a couple of chocks in along the bottom. I can't remember the exact points, but it's all done according to the Staines decking manual.

You can get a pre routered bot rail but it usually out of 66 x 35 so will be slightly smaller than the top ...... The timber yard should be able to mill the top rail for 100 bucks all you need is a 12 mm deep groove 2mm wider than the ballester .....

The bottom you can do the same as the top then just rip one side off and plane a bevel for the water to get off......

I am planning to do that myself, as I have a table saw and router table that should do the job nicely. I am planning to get a price on the top and bottom rail already routred though, to see how much it costs.

Sorry didn't read your post carefully.... Easy way get a 19 x 19 bead and screw it on to the top and bot for the channel you need to fix the ballesters to....not prob as strong but done by most cause routing takes time $$$$$

Thanks for that short-cut. I think I will stick with the routing option, as I can do this bit myself.

Cheers ute mad

ps condition of all advicce is that a finished photo is posted up here for all to admire

I am hoping to have enough energy left every afternoon to take a snap and post it here, if not, I will definately take a snap and then post them all at the end of the project. Hopefully it looks good enough for you to offer me a WA franchise?

Cheers

Jayson.