Thread: Down lights

It could just come down to the quality of your globes are you buying a good brand or something from woolies... silvania and phillips are both decent brands that i have had no trouble with. The ones going on and off could be due to heat (this is the most common cause) are they electronic transformers or are they the wire wound (these are a lot bigger and heavier and also generate a lot more heat) Probably more a transformer issue than a wireing one, wireing tends to just stop (tho not always) Are they actually low voltage lights or are they 240V style?
As for a good brand tranny i have used Actel and atco with very little trouble....maybe 1 in every 500 if that

I am using Phillips globes.

They are low voltage lights.

As for the transformer I have no idea. I will have to get up into the ceiling on the weekend and have a look.

I have that spray/blow in type insulation in the ceiling at home. Maybe its too close to the transformers.

Originally Posted by alisonol

I have that spray/blow in type insulation in the ceiling at home. Maybe its too close to the transformers.

That is a good place to check try for at least 100mm around the tranny and globe or sit them on a piece of wood above the insulation.

Could potentially be a transformer issue. If I were to recommend a new transformer it would be an ATCO possum or ATCO speedy. You can get them from any electrical wholesaler. Also I would think seriously about also installing a dimmer. By reducing the output of the globe by 10% it will significantly increase the life of the globe, in some cases by double with no real noticeable difference in light.

We had downlights put in the master bedroom nearly 2 years ago. The units were $35 for the fitting, globes and transformers, so I'm guessing they're not the highest quality parts. But, we've also got a clipsal dimmer on them, which does a soft start as well as dim, so perhaps that may indeed be the answer.

I forgot to mention, we haven't had to change any of the globes yet (touch wood...)

Replace them with CFL downlights. Save money & environment. Not the pretend ones, the normal sized downlight ones, you'l hvae to cut your holes bigger, but will get more and better quality light.

Paul

As already said you definately need to get in your ceiling and ensure your transformers have good ventilation to prevent them from overloading. You'll probably find that they're 50W to match your 50W globes. The older 'coil' type transformers were always prone to fluctuations and can therefore reduce the lifespan of your globe. The newer solid state transformers are heaps cheaper and work a hell of a lot better therefore getting maximum life out of your globes.
There will be nothing wrong with your wiring. Your globes are obviously blowing for a reason and I suspect heat/overload. Check your transformers for ventilation and if you doubt their integrity replace them.
If you are not a licensed sparky you WILL have to get someone in though.
Good luck.

As Paul (me3_neuralfibre) said you should look at replacing them. Low voltage does not mean low energy - these are very inefficient lights.

See my reply in this thread:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f78/halogen-ceiling-lights-55031

but . . . if you really want the dimmers then as has been said check transformers have clear air space and is not covered by ceiling insulation, that there is also clear space around the fitting itself, and use brand name bulbs.

Originally Posted by luckysack

. . .
If you are not a licensed sparky you WILL have to get someone in though.
Good luck.

They are using a transformer so it is most unlikely that a licensed electrician will be needed. Of course if they were 240v then and electrician would have to be used, but they are low voltage so have a transformer.

The 240v input side of the transformers are usually plugged into a standard socket in the roof space rather than being hard-wired (if the 240v input are hard-wired then electrician is needed - I have never seen this) so can be unplugged and a new one plugged in - no different to plugging in any appliance except the power outlet is sitting in the roof space.

The 12v output side is low voltage and anyone can do that wiring. This usually involves simply unscrewing at a terminal block at the light fitting or sometimes directly from the back of the bulb (depends on the age and type) - just as one does to change the bulb.

I have recently discovered a couple of really efficient 12V halogen downlights. Both are energy savers and produce very good light in our Victorian house with 3m ceilings.

1) Osram Decostar ES 20W 12V 36d
2) Philips Masterline ES 20W 12V 36d

Both: -

• Produce 1000 candales lumination
• last 5000 hrs,
• produce approx 40% less heat (save on air conditioning)
• Last 5000 hrs (double normal 12V halogens)
• work well with the current range of electronic transformers. You can wire two lights per transformer saving you even more
• cost approx $7.00/globe

Only trouble is most mass consumer lighting stores have little or no knowledge of these lights...they only want to sell you cheap inefficient product. May be able to access from Rexel Electrical or like minded chains.

Hi

Originally Posted by me3_neuralfibre

Replace them with CFL downlights. Save money & environment.

AND light output! The light from CFL is no match for halogen downlights!

Sure they ARE cheaper to run but the quality of light and the light temperature is DIFFERENT. CFL output is not *my* preferred light quality but it doe suit some people

Not the pretend ones, the normal sized downlight ones, you'l hvae to cut your holes bigger, but will get more and better quality light.

IMHO, absolutely NOT more and Better quality AND you have to wait for them to "warm" up for the maximum light output.

I don't say there is anything WRONG with them, just not MY preferred light output!

Paul

Replace them with CFL downlights. Save money & environment. Not the pretend ones, the normal sized downlight ones, you'l hvae to cut your holes bigger, but will get more and better quality light.

I intend to fit one to my bathroom renovation. It takes the standard ES Low wattage flouro bulb . The one I saw fits a normal downlight hole size but does not have a glass cover over the bulb. The ones with the glass cover had a larger hole size. This way you can fit one ($13) and try it and if you do not like the light then put back a halogen downlight into the same hole.

Cheers

hi there if you are wondering still it is your transformers that make light go on and of by them selves they are wire wound and they have a bi metalic heat switch in them that turns of when it gets to hot cheap sparky should have used good ones if you have no dimmers on circuit i suggest that you use atco possum transformers

Originally Posted by nigel123

I have recently discovered a couple of really efficient 12V halogen downlights. Both are energy savers and produce very good light in our Victorian house with 3m ceilings.

1) Osram Decostar ES 20W 12V 36d
2) Philips Masterline ES 20W 12V 36d

Both: -

• Produce 1000 candales lumination
• last 5000 hrs,
• produce approx 40% less heat (save on air conditioning)
• Last 5000 hrs (double normal 12V halogens)
• work well with the current range of electronic transformers. You can wire two lights per transformer saving you even more
• cost approx $7.00/globe

Only trouble is most mass consumer lighting stores have little or no knowledge of these lights...they only want to sell you cheap inefficient product. May be able to access from Rexel Electrical or like minded chains.

I'll second the Osram Decostar globes. My mate and I bought over 200 of these when we were both building and have not had any blow in nearly 3 years. Importantly leave enough breathing space around your downlights! Tranny has not made a difference as he is using Telbix and I have Atco Possum's. You can get the globes from Australia Lighting stores.