Thread: Process of changing normal globes to downlights?

as previously posted several times before mate, your not likely to get a response due to the legalities of advising someone who is obviously not a registered electrician on how to change a setup, so ya best bet and safest for your own safety ( yes we do care about ya)...ring up a sparky and explain to him over the phone what you want and get an estimate cost for the job ....save ya pennies and get them to do it for ya, we skimp a lot in life, but when it comes down to safety for you, your family and your home .....get someone who knows what they are doing, and cut costs somewhere else to pay for it ......its just not worth the lousy few bucks saved ....to place those you love at risk.


gets off soapbox .....and waves

A hole need to cut into the ceiling that will take the size of the downlight. The downlight has spring clips on its sides that hold it in place in the hold.

If you're talking about swapping them for halogens, the fitting itself is pretty cheap. For 12v you're looking at about $20 per (with globe). For 240v around $10 per (without). You'll want to look into the different types of globe etc. with regard to the lighting you need and the power consumption.

As for the wiring, that's an unknown quantity. Don't just assume it's a simple swap out because it depends on what is there now and whether it is up to standards. You may find that the sparky has to upgrade the installation if it is old or has been done by a DIYer.

Best bet is to get a sparky to swing by and have a look.

I thought I had made it perfectly clear that I am not going to do it myself!!!!!! I know nothing about electrical stuff, hence asking the question. I have read a few threads of people wanting to DIY wiring and I also think they are mad!!!! I like to know a bit about what I am talking about so I don't waste my electricians valuable time explaining (or in some cases, not explaining) what needs to be done. I am asking for some very general knowledge, not which wire do I connect to which socket! I work full time so often aren't at home when plumbers, electricians etc are there, so sometimes I have to relay, or answer questions via my wife.
So back to the question!
So assuming the wiring is in good condition and up to standards then it is a pretty simple, quick job? Silentc you mention 12v and 240v. I'm looking at some of the compact fluro's 9w GU10 globes, would I need 12v or 240v? Are normal globes 240v, if so why would you put a 12v one in?
Cheers
McBlurter

Just about to perform some brain surgery on myself, having asked a brain surgery forum question about the hypothalmus!

I believe that the GU10 globes require a 240v fitting.

To be honest, I don't really know why people still put in 12v halogens - I did but that was because I didn't know any better. There was a time when the 240v globes didn't exist, and then there was a time when they were difficult to get and quite expensive. I think those times have now gone.

As for what has to be done in the ceiling, the actual wiring requirements aren't any different in terms of what wires need to run from the meter box and the switch (as far as I know), so if it's all in good order, the sparky should be able to just get up there and swap them out.

Thanks Silentc, just the info I was needing, much appreciated.
Cheers
McBlurter

Originally Posted by Mcblurter

No not going to do it myself!!!!
Just on my quest of knowledge that I don't already possess. We are doing a reno and have two lights in the kitchen that use normal screw in bulbs. I want to change these to downlights and was wondering what the process is. I am assuming that the wiring will remain the same but a different connection will be installed?
Is that a pretty simple/cheap job (any ideas on cost of fittings and labour?)
Cheers
McBlurter

Jeez manoftalent,
someone evens mentions the word electr*city and gets his head bitten off!

McBlurter, the answer depends on how many lights you need. If you replaced the current fittings with GU10 bulbs it might end up a bit dark. You probably need 50W above the sink, 50W above each work space and about 150W of general room lighting. 20W halogens are good recessed into the overheard cupboards. A sparky might charge you $60 per downlight.

A good way to save money is to ask him to terminate the wires to a socket outlet connection, then you can plug in your own transformers via flex and fit the lights yourself.... definitely legal and pretty simple too.

For example one of these surface mount socket outlets:

Cheers
Pulse

mcblurter
i assume you have a directional spot light of some type especially if it is a screw in type...as i have not seen a screw in batten holder for some time. this will be screwed to a roof joist or batten there are two types of downlights fixed type which is normally a 70 mm cut out hole and gimbal which is usually 92mm hole and as some of the other members have rightfully said the spark will have to move your light so he can recess the downlight into the roof and the spring clips sit on the gyprock..downlight kits are cheap as chips today you can buy a 10 pack from bunnings for about 120 bucks if ya want to save ya self some cash buy the fitting remebering with the gimbal type you can adjust to aim the direction of the lamp but being in a kitchen you really should have one over the sink and anywhere like an island bench for instance the I dont kno how old your house is because if it has not been re-wired and the house has all the split steel conduit the spark will really not want to know about it.. if it has been rewired in tps i assume he would charge you to install 2 d/lights about $200 for about 1.5 hrs work and also when he is installing the downlights make sure he puts a flex and plug on the transformer which he will have to supply two plug bases so when the transformer inevitably carks it all you have to do is reach up through the hole and unplug it and swap the transformers around replacement transformers are about 15 - 18 bucks each replacement lamps are about 4.00 each but buy the d/lights in a kit because if the spark buys them you can guarantee he will put his 20% on after all this has been said you dont have a flat roof do you? there is access through a manhole?

Hey patty, the full stop key is down there on the second row from the bottom, two to the left of the Shift key



BTW I have screw type batten holders in my outside lights and I bought them about 12 months ago.

cheers silentc I got a bit carried away

No worries mate, I nearly ran out of breath trying to read it Good advice though...

Thanks for the extra info everyone, head has been put back in place after a quick chat on the surgery forum.
At present in the kitchen we have 4 lights in the ceiling. They are normal screw in globes. They are sort of like downlights in that the globe screws in above ceiling height. Has enough light but look crap!!!!
We are putting in an openable skylight as room is dark during the day and would prefer natural to electric light. Plan to put three pendant lights above bench where we often eat (on seperate switches so can have all on or one on). But need two more lights near sink for extra light, but don't want them to clash with pendants so felt that downlights would be best option. We won't use these lights a lot, only when need extra light for the sink. Not a very big room (about 4m x 4m) so thinking two downlights over sink should be sufficient.
Hoping to get away with using the same holes for downlights, although it may be slightly bigger than the downlights I've seen?
Cheers
McBlurter

no worries mate so you have existing downlights already why didnt you say so.... to change these.... to new 12 v halogen is easy you can buy an adaptor plate which will cover the existing hole... to allow you to use your new either gimbal or fixed downlights you want to put in just measure the hole opening and take your measurements to the local elect wholesaler and ask for an adaptor plate to covert the old style reflector type d/light to the new halogens whilst you are there pick up the downlights to suit as the adaptor plates are made for both 70 mm and 92 mm holes