Thread: Painting treated Pine
6th Jun 2007, 11:55 AM #1
Painting treated Pine
Am having a pergola built and the materials will be delivered un-painted. (Iwas quoted $1000 on a smallish sized pergola) I have been told Solver Duraguard with 2 coats will do the job with NO undercoat. Does this sound right to you?
Furthermore I am sure there must be a Tradies trick to painting un-assembled structures. Can I paint all 4 sides to a post at the one time and if so what does it rest on so as not to leave a mark as I turn the wood over to do the underside?
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6th Jun 2007, 01:24 PM #2
sounds fine, all exterior quality paints self prime, although personally i 'd go for 3 coats, especially on the bits that face the weather (ie the top sides!
no tricks, saw horses or bits of timber on the bottom, and if its warm bt the time you get all of 2 sides done, then the first one is touch dry. you will need to touch up after its built, and this is when you fix the marks up and paint cut ends etc.
6th Jun 2007, 01:34 PM #3
Thanks for the answer. Now I'm off to manually lug all materials up a VERY steep drive into the garage for painting. Cheers
6th Jun 2007, 01:56 PM #4
Just make sure you watch the weather this time of the year, don't start painting till the temp gets to at least 12C and stop painting when you think the temp will below 12C before the paint dries.
I take it 'Flaggers' is Flagstaff Hill? Can get a bit cold down there in Adelaide's deep south!
I used Solver Duraguard on my pergola, used 2 coats, and it looks fine. Keep an eye on it and when you see it starting to look a bit "weathered, slap another coat on.
7th Jun 2007, 12:25 AM #5
hi kasier i would personally oil base prime and then two coats of solver.
they say it's self priming, but on the tech sheets it say's self priming on small bear area's only and recommend priming first. if you want to stick to acrylics put an acrylic primer on first, i personally prefer oil base(enamel).
7th Jun 2007, 09:35 AM #6
Yep Flagstaff Hill can be "Brass Monkeys" at times.
Having read your answers I see there is a view (thanks Simon) to maybe go for oil based paints. In all honesty, apart from the easier clean-up, smell and drying time, what is the differences between acrylic and oil? Is one superior to the other?
Iv'e asked these Q's at the 'big green place' but they always seem to be too busy to give a clear response.
7th Jun 2007, 09:43 AM #7
Don't go the oil based route, you'll regret it when it breaks down over time. The waterbased Duraguard weathers much better and stays flexible, the oil based enamel will eventually crack and peel. The re-paint job becomes a lot more work.
I have been in surface coatings most of my working life and wouldn't use an oil based enamel on my pergola.
Solver Duraguard, or the Wattyl Solaguard are the way to go, very similar products as Wattyl owns Solver.
If you have questions, why don't you ring Solver technical help and ask the question, don't go to the "big green place" for technical assistance, you don't go to Woolworths for your medical advice, do you?
7th Jun 2007, 09:11 PM #8
big shed is right in saying don't use enamal as a finish product, i like to use solver usually and the duragaurd is a great drop of paint.
what i am saying is i preffer a oil based primer over an acrylic as they seem to penitrate the timber a lot better than acrylics, which gives you a better key for the top coat to hold on to.
7th Jun 2007, 09:29 PM #9
Well all our exposure testing proves your theory wrong, but if you feel good doing that, who am I to stop you.
All that extra work and cost, and you achieve an inferior result.
7th Jun 2007, 10:47 PM #10Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
7th Jun 2007, 10:49 PM #11
i am only trying to give some advice like you are big shed.
i am only speaking from my experience as a tradie and the information i gave works very well for me and has done for many years.
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