Thread: gyprock brick feature wall

Hi Manichouse.

This link will show you how to stick on plaster. http://www.how2plaster.com/stickonplaster.html

This shows stick on to a rendered wall. The priciples are the same for sticking on to bricks. The only difference is that you most likely won't need to use leveling blocks.

If you have any further questions just post here again.

By the way call a specialist plasterboard store and get a price for your materials they should be a lot cheaper than Bunnings.



Cheers Rod

Hi
this is a very simply job as i have just done a bedroom wall and a complete sleep out that is now the new laundry .i had never done this before but after reading rod's great website it was easy

the trick is to get the sheets in the length of the wall even if you have to get them delivered so there is less joins if you have a ceiling hight of less than 2.4m then this would mean one join along the middle of the wall as the sheet are 1.2m wide .

to attach the sheet i used a truck load of conice cement and made the mix quite thick like touth paste and it worked a treat if the mix is to thin it will take a long time to set .you could also screw it to the wall but i felt there was no piont .and by using a lot of conice cement i found that the gyprock was less drummy when you tapped on it

for the joines i just use the fiberglass easy tape because it was covering a brick wall and there would be little movement from the wall , also the paper tape is alot harder to use .

depending on where you live you can get the gyprock from CSR in midland they have every thing you need and there delivery price was only $50 which i throught was resonable .

i'm in bayswater

Best of luck
Rob

thanks for the fast replies the sheets at bunnings are 2400x1200 coincidentally the height of our ceiling. so cornice should cover any small gap left. they are about $15 each? would csr be cheaper than that? its just that bunnings is just around the corner and i'm south of the river

If bunning has them and they are the right length and hieght i would just go there .yes the conice should cover the gap and the skirting board will cover the indent at the base of the bottom panel

also it pays to get a large bag of cornice cement as it is only about $5 more than a small bag and is always handy to have .get a large broad knife as this will make the job easier when doing the joins .

if the wall is painted brick you can hit it with a angle grinder to remove some paint to get a better contact if need be .

A spirit level is also good to use to get the panels level . and give the panels a good hit with your hand to make sure they are contacting the wall .

oh and i used this top coat that was pre mixed that i got at bunnings which gave a great finish i will get the name of it for you tonight when i go to finish the rest of my plastering .........FUN FUN

best of luck

Rob

$15 each is way too much!

$9.50 is more the go and a bag of cornice adhesive $21.50

South of the river Pick up clayton.

Bunnings is way way too expensive on all their plaster products.

Suggest you use longer sheets and lay them length ways 2 x 1200 sheets gives you the height sheets come up to 6m in length. Will be less joints to trowel. Vertical joints if not done very well will show up after painting a lot more.

Cheers

just another quick one, the sheets have some kind of edging on them? this would be stronger than a cut edge? the wall i want to do wraps around into another room so the other side would be brick ie at the end of the wall the plaster would be exposed. therefore going with the upright sheets seems safer/easier

My memory may be playing tricks on me but I'm fairly sure the bunnings price for a 2400x1200 10mm sheet is $10.50

I think from what you are describing you will need to stick a small strip of plaster over the end of the bricks and finish off with an external corner.

See here how to install externals http://www.how2plaster.com/angles.html

If you didnt want to return the plasterboard around the end of the brick wall, then you should use a casing bead, stopping bead, or stopping angle to finish off the end of the sheets.

Casing bead is sometimes called capping bead, it comes in metal or plastic. It is is not perforated therefore is not stopped up, when painted you will see the edge of the bead.

Stopping bead is similar to casing bead but is perforated and is stopped up giving you a smooth finish.

Stopping angle is similar to stopping bead in the way that it is also perforated and is stopped up. The difference stooping angle is L shaped and can be put on after the sheets are hung.

While both stopping bead and casing bead are U shaped and in most circumstances needs to be slipped onto the sheet before its hung.

Hope this helps.

Cheers