Thread: 1st go at Celtic Knots

Great work Stu

Similar to a sierra I did here but the kid did a better job then me - must say I liked his workshop

Haven't had a chance to refine my technique as domestic chores are taking too much time. There must be a way to do 5 or 6 rings

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Great work Stu

Similar to a sierra I did here but the kid did a better job then me - must say I liked his workshop

Haven't had a chance to refine my technique as domestic chores are taking too much time. There must be a way to do 5 or 6 rings

That surely is one nice pen, I hope to do some similar at some point, when I get a minute

I've been working like a rented mule (well besides my 3 week lay up with a fractured leg) getting one of our old apartments remodeled, so I'm not flush with time. Up at 8 AM, on the job at 9 AM, home around 3:30 PM then to the liquor shop at 4:30PM until 1 AM repeat

This leaves VERY little time to turn.

I will get a nice new 3HP Cabinet saw out of the deal, in the end.

I think that this year, I'll be giving gift certificates for Christmas presents

Six sided chunk of wood, would give you more rings

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Similar to a sierra I did

Nice work on the pen SDM!!!

11 years old quick someone ring OH&S Workcover, Child Protection agency, no supervision.

I'd have clouted him for cutting up a beaut slab instead of using scrap

Look at his workshop obviously not in Australia for starters, no computer on his desk, no gaming machines either. This kid is being deprived of what today's kids take for granted.

His parents spent their hard earned money on good tools instead of learning aids and he did this all cause his damn cheap ass parents that bought his cheap pen wouldn't work .

Ok, so the temptation was just too much for me to handle and I had a crack at the art of celtic knots. Well, about six cracks actually before I was almost pleased with the result. I now have a problem that I can't fathom. How do you make the cuts when the material that is to become the celtic knot is thinner than the saw blade? I've got a bloody huge headache trying to nut this one out. Not to mention hours of cutting and gluing and waiting and a bucket full of offcuts with little inserts that don't line up Any advice would much appreciated coz I now have huge family demand for ( should I say it?) pens with a celtic knot.

Cheers
Shorty

Shorty... am assuming that your using a table saw blade with a width of 3mm and that kerf is too large.

A bandsaw blade has a much smaller kerf...try that.

Another alternative is to use what's called a "slitting" saw (used primarily by machinists)...these come in very small sizes, but, the kicker is that you will have to fabricate a bench saw from scratch.

Yet another avenue would be to check out hobby shops for a micro-miniature bench saw.

Good luck!!

Texian--yes. They don't have to be 45 deg [altho I think that's the nicest angle] but all the same. I did see one on a pen that had 2 long sides & 2 short, but looked wierd to me. But---to each his own. They can also be made 6 & 8 sided. 8 looks too busy.

Thanks Mobil.

Shorty, i think if u cut right thru rather than just making a slot then u can glue on any thickness u want. If you watch the video stevenp posted, http://marleyturned.com/id180.htm , the turner makes a celtic knot tree decoration & uses some very thin vaneer as a highlite border on either side of the constrast material.

Originally Posted by thefixer

Ok, so the temptation was just too much for me to handle and I had a crack at the art of celtic knots. Well, about six cracks actually before I was almost pleased with the result. I now have a problem that I can't fathom. How do you make the cuts when the material that is to become the celtic knot is thinner than the saw blade? I've got a bloody huge headache trying to nut this one out. Not to mention hours of cutting and gluing and waiting and a bucket full of offcuts with little inserts that don't line up Any advice would much appreciated coz I now have huge family demand for ( should I say it?) pens with a celtic knot.

Cheers
Shorty

What about a japanese pull saw. If its only a pen blank width. No power I guess. But you could make a power sound while you are doing it.

You cannot get the knot to come out right by cutting all the way through the block. The insert thickness must equal the saw cut, or visa versa. You can use insert pieces thicker than the saw cut IF you make the initial cut then remove an amount from the two pieces that will, in effect, be the same as the thickness of the desired insert. This way you can laminate various colors for the inserts. The amount removed in any case must equal the thickness of the insert or the intersections won't come out right. Also, an equal amount must be removed from both parts of the block, cutting only one side won't work.
If you would like I can explain how I laminate.
I hope someone proves me wrong but here goes--- The amount removed by the saw dictates the thickness of the insert OR the thickness of the insert dictates the saw cut required.

but thats exactly what the dude did making the xmas decoration. he cut thru the piece completely then glued on the contrasting material. I can't see how the thickness of the contrasting material could have any relivance to the saw blade thickness unless its to do with the total final length of the piece. But then i'm no turner so i could well be wrong.

It strikes me that the 'hinged saw kerf' method is for the convenience of accuracy of measure.
The same precision can be achieved by other means if the rings are to be finer .
It's all in the setout

A scroll saw would produce a fine cut , and still leave the hinge

My explaining skills ain't great but I'll try because I can see it in my old head.
Let's assume we are using inserts the same thickness as the saw cut and that the first cut starts 2" from one end of a 6" block and proceeds at a 45deg angle toward the opposite end. Install an insert, glue it, measure and find the overall length is still 6". Cut the block again with the long end against the stop and glue-- still 6" overall.

NOW. -- starting all over-- cut the block and glue an insert that is twice as thick as the saw cut (1/4"). The overall length is now 6 1/4". In order to get the second, third and fourth pieces to come right at the intersection, the insert MUST be centered on the FIRST insert. you cannot do this by only removing 1/8" of material so you make the cut centered on the first insert then remove 1/16" form each part to make room for the remaining 1/8". Ideally, before the FIRST insert is installed, the two blocks should be shortened by 1/16" or you will have to reposition your stop block after the first glueup.
The chap in the video may have had his total lamination thickness equal to the sawcut. I have done that.

If all this makes sense please explain it to me because my old brain needs a nap now