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  1. #1
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    Default Advice on a Cougar 350 EVS

    I have a new friend who is selling a cougar EVS 350 for a respectable price.

    I currently have a woodfast m305, which is a very tidy machine. Over the last few weeks I've been doing a lot of turning and I've fallen in love with the sport.

    The one thing that is beginning to bug me is the speed changes. While its not making me loopy, it's enough to irritate me. The cougar is a much bigger lathe, so it's going to require a workshop reorganisation.

    Is opinion of the Cougar a good one? Given its a couple of years old, the price is modest. It is essentially unused.

    Ev.

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  3. #2
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    I just purchased one at the Sydney wood show, and am currently in the process of re-doing my workshop so that it fits.
    I was able to spend some time with a demonstrator at the show, who had the very first 350 EVS into the country. I turned a knife handle on it as a demo, and it is in perfect nick. He said that as long as you protect it, it should last forever. He loves his (now old) 350 EVS and said he uses "silverglide" on it to keep the lathe bed smooth and free from jamming up. It was such a brilliant machine to use. Knowing that this one was as old as it was, convinced me that they are a good tool which should last forever if you take care of it. Can't wait to flick the switch and turn mine on!
    Simon

  4. #3
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    Ah yes, I remember seeing the trendy stubble in the pictures.

    Are you saying that you haven't plugged the new toy in yet? You have restraint!

    Agreeing the silverglide. I use minwax on the table saw and jointer.... Smooth

    It's certainly bigger than my current midi....much bigger than I envisioned.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evanism View Post
    It's certainly bigger than my current midi....much bigger than I envisioned.
    Yes same here. I am upgrading from a Jet midi 1220vs and it certainly looks like it puts the Jet in it's place haha.

    No turning it on yet - haven't even plugged it in to test yet. Still making a home for it. At the moment ALL of my tools are taking up the back yard and my oundercover outdoor dining area. I think I might get in some trouble if I went turning before cleaning up the mess.

  6. #5
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    Agreeing the silverglide. I use minwax on the table saw and jointer.... Smooth
    I personally wouldn't use silverglide on the bed as it can let the the tailstock creep in certain instances.

    Gees Evan you should be using that (Silverglide) on the table saw and jointer. Slipperyas and that is what it was designed for.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    I personally wouldn't use silverglide on the bed as it can let the the tailstock creep in certain instances.
    Yep that happened to me at the show. I just put the tailstock lock on as hard as I do on my midi but the demonstrator said because of how smooth (aka slippery) the bed is, it needs to be locked off better.

    To avoid this slipperiness but so that the bed doesn't get all clogged up (my midi is hard to move the tailstock or the tool rest support smoothly after 18 months of use), what product or cleaning process is best? Wet & dry paper then pat dry with paper towel?

  8. #7
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    Our regimen for lathe beds is:

    1: Wash bed down with thinners to remove sap residue and finish.
    2: Apply a coat of WD 40 or similar.
    3: Run tailstock and banjos up and down bed to spread WD 40 around.
    4: Wipe off excess.
    5: We use our lathe beds dry but if the lathe is not going to be used for a while, a good coat of Inox is applied.

    Over time cast iron (as in most beds) will self lubricate to a certain extent because the absorb the oil put on them but a little help is needed sometimes.

    WD 40 evaporates over time, Inox does not.

    Sometimes the banjo and tailstock locking mechanisms get gummed up and you have to remove them from the lathe and clean them out. A liberal dose of WD 40 generally does the job.

  9. #8
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    Thanks . I have only ever wiped it down with a dustpan brush. Will give my old one a liberal cleaning with WD40. Thanks for the tip.

  10. #9
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    , good one on the WD40. I'll do that.

    With the woodfast, I've been turning some pretty juicy wet stuff and made sure to clean it all off at the end of a session. The WD will form a good silicone barrier....probably the only place in the woodworkers shed where you might actually want it!

    Conversation seems to have diverged a bit from the virtues or failings of the Cougar 350 EVS!

  11. #10
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    I have a cougar 350 needs new s1 inverter on eBay between $150 to $350 would consider $2000 if any one is interested. Looking to downsize anyway to a small variable speed so could do trade and cash exchange. Call or message me Matt 0402381860.

  12. #11
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    Default Cougar 350 wood lathe

    [QUOTE=Matt131267;2132544]I have a cougar 350 EVS needs new s1 inverter on eBay between $150 to $350 would consider $1200 if any one is interested. Looking to downsize to a nova comet 2 variable speed so could do trade and some cash exchange. Call or message me Matt 0402381860...thanks for looking/QUOTE]

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evanism View Post
    ,

    With the woodfast, I've been turning some pretty juicy wet stuff and made sure to clean it all off at the end of a session. The WD will form a good silicone barrier....probably the only place in the woodworkers shed where you might actually want it!
    I only use regular WD40 not a silicone based product. I wouldn't run the risk of silicone getting onto my turnings and stuffing what ever finish i am using. I do much the same as Retired described above on my lathe.

    Tony
    You can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde

  14. #13
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    I have the 400 cougar - had it a good few years now. No complaints and pretty happy with it. Am starting to wonder when i might need to look at bearings, but am happy with the machine.

    and i use wd40 and inox

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