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Thread: Advice on which size bowl gouge.
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26th August 2009, 10:50 PM #1Senior Member
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Advice on which size bowl gouge.
Hi,
I am considering what size bowl gouge to buy.
My current set of tools is a midi set, with a 1/4" bowl gouge. This is a little limiting, not because of its width but because of its length. Length of the tool part is about 6 inches, so doesn't give me much depth to work.
I was looking at getting some full size tools that will allow me to start doing bowls, boxes etc.
I was looking at either a 3/8" bowl gouge( 3/8" flute made from 1/2" stock) or a 1/2" bowl gouge( 1/2" flute made from 5/8" stock).
I have a midi lathe which is limited to 300mm diameter over bed.
Open to advice from more experienced turners, if you had to chose one of these, which size would it be?
Thanks
-Gavin
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26th August 2009 10:50 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th August 2009, 12:01 AM #2
I get most use out of the 3/8 inch stock one. The bigger one only comes out doing platters bigger than 250mm diam. And maybe deep bowls where more ovehang means you need more thickness in the tool.
Last edited by tea lady; 27th August 2009 at 12:02 AM. Reason: wrong measure.
anne-maria.
Tea Lady
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27th August 2009, 01:15 AM #3
Bowl Gouge.
Hi,
I was going to say, "ask Hughie", as he knows about these Hamlets 2060's
Could be expensive, but very good, apparently.
I may wait until the T&WWWShow in Melb. in Oct. & have a look at them there.
Other than that, I would look at a P&N 10mm.or 14mm.Unhandled Bowl Gouge.
Carroll's @ cws have all you will ever want.
Regards,
issatree.
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27th August 2009, 01:25 AM #4
You might consider a 1/2" (1/2" bar stock) Thompson V gouge. The 5/8" is a bit large for some things.
Richard in Wimberley
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27th August 2009, 04:03 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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I find that the thicker and heavier the tool, the less vibration, longer reach into a bowl, less reaction to bumping from out of round timber.
My biggest bowl gouge is a 1/2 inch - 13mm, (5/8 - 16mm actual) Crown. I use it down to about 4 inch - 100mm bowls. That is my only bowl gouge, so I use spindle gouges on smaller things which works fine with little overhang.
I have two big home made tools, 13mm and 18mm square, ground like the front of 1930s streamlined locomotives that I use as scrapers & shear scrapers.
They are around 6 - 700mm long overall with 50mm thick handles, nice for hogging out the inside of a bowl, or freshly sharpened, slicing off just a tiny bit to clean up rough areas.
Even on smaller things, I find I use the biggest tool I can get into where I am cutting.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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27th August 2009, 07:33 AM #6
I only have one bowl gouge and thats 3/8" Seems to do all I want but then again I am far from being an expert on the subject and have only turned a couple of bowls.
Reality is no background music.
Cheers John
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27th August 2009, 12:08 PM #7Member
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I would suggest getting a 12mm (1/2") stock for bowls that size, 10mm (3/8") is a little small in my view. I use a 12mm or a 16mm for most of my work.
Robbie
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27th August 2009, 12:09 PM #8
IMHO i think if you have one make it a 3/8 inch (out of 1/2 inch stock)
It is slower when roughing out but you can do the whole job with it.
If you only have a 1/2 inch (5/8 stock) then you will find limitations on smaller bowls and when finishing off.
Cheersregards
David
"Tell him he's dreamin.""How's the serenity" (from "The Castle")
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27th August 2009, 01:42 PM #9
I would avoid the 2060 stuff if at all possible. It is harder and wears longer, no question, however it is also harder to sharpen properly. I know a couple of "famous" turners that use it, however they only do so because they are given it and would not pay the extra money for it.
I mostly use the 1/2" version (stock width) myself, the larger one only comes out when there is an issue with chatter on certain timbers. I rough out with a 1/2" spindle gouge and it is worth its weight in pig manure.
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27th August 2009, 02:05 PM #10
Not to deflect this thread, but can not helping asking PAH1 how is 2060 (or any steel) harder to sharpen than any other? Granted if you are grinding a different shape that is another question. But sharpening is just a couple of light passes.
Richard in Wimberley
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27th August 2009, 05:03 PM #11Member
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I use a P&N 10mm and 16mm bowl gouge for all of my work
the 16 is really great for making short work of big bowls, but the 10 is also neccesary for smaller bowls or where you cant get into with the 16.
I also use slightly different grinds on mine, the 10's bevel is a little bit steeper to allow you to get up into the rim of bowls.
I also find the 10 is more easy to controll when shaping.
P&N I'v found to be really good; theyre aussie, they stay sharp for big long time and the black finish makes the gouge look tough
hope this helpsBrody- 15 - Lake Cathie
-Arguments with turnings are rarely productive-
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27th August 2009, 07:32 PM #12Senior Member
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27th August 2009, 08:16 PM #13Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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27th August 2009, 09:00 PM #14
i use a 3/8 but it's a pain to turn large bowls with. My lathe can only do up to a 12inch bowl but anything that big takes a while to hog out. I'm looking at a 1/2 inch v profile bowl gouge next for quicker stock removal. I've used one before and it was fantastic.
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27th August 2009, 11:53 PM #15
Bowl Gouges.
Hi all,
I have to agree about P&N 10mm B/gouge. I'm on my 3rd. as I not only use it for very few small bowls, but also for all my Finger Spinning Tops, & what ever else.
So they are not just great for Bowls, but anything you can think of.
I have a 12mm. as well, but it doesn't get used as much, still a useful tool.
Hughie suggested the 2060, & I thought they may be the go, & that is why I suggested them.
I'm still going to have a look at one at Melb. Show.
Whether I buy or not may depend on the price.
Regards,
issatree.
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