Thread: Bandsaw???!!!!!!

You could do the forks and cutting pen blanks on either a scrol saw or a bandsaw. My opinion is that a bandsaw is smoother in operation than a scroll saw, because the blade always moves in the same direction rather than up and down. OTOH a scroll saw can cut out in the middle of a piece where a bandsaw can only do that if you cut the blade and re-weld it. A scroll saw will usually have a hold down device to help with the smoothness.

Peter

I don't do turning, but I have both, scroll and band saw. If I was
limited to one, it would be the scroll saw.

It's like this: for thin material and tight curves, a scrollsaw gives better results. You can drill a hole in the wood, feed the blade through and cut a pattern totally inside the wood without needing a cut run to the edge. The blades tend to be rather fragile though. (I've a nasty habit of breaking a scrollsaw blade or two on almost every job I tackle... but that's really operator impatience.)

For thick material (let's say around 1.5"-2" or thicker) and/or straight lines, a bandsaw is far quicker and more robust. But all cuts must start from the outside edge - unless you hae specialised equipment

So:

For your hair forks, a scrollsaw would be more user friendly. It'd handle small, tight curves more easily with far less need for trimming up later by hand.

Either will handle pen-blanks.

For cutting logs & small branches, a bandsaw is the only choice, IMHO. Too heavy a cut for a scrollsaw. And even then you need to build some sort of support ( a v-jig or similar) to prevent it rolling and jamming - or worse.

A bandsaw is the better work companion for turners.

A scrollsaw is better for ornamental work.

(Does it sound like I'm saying "buy both?" )



Oh... FWIW, I dislike small bandsaws. Anything with under 14" diameter wheels bend the blade through a tight radius, causing it to become fatigued over time just by running. Even without actually cutting anything. But I refrain from poo-poohing 'em 'cos I know others who've had some success with theirs.

You might try PMing Lubbing5Cherubs for her opinion...

If I can do penblanks with them as well, I'm probably better of getting the scroll saw, which I planned to do before I saw the small band saw - especially if the size of the band saw is an issue. I can't get a free standing one - no space and I'm not allowed.

Carba Tec has an entry level scroll saw for $139 (I think). After I get paid for the art I sold, maybe I'll get it. Or on Monday, after I win lotto this saturday.

Good luck!

Both with the sales and with lotto.

From my humble experience a bandsaw is a great all rounder, but it will not do what a scroll saw can, and that is the fine work. Normally you can pick a descent scroll saw up at a cash converters for around $70 ~ $90 they rarely are used that much that's why the people sell to second hand shops I guess. But when you need one YOU NEED ONE!

Cheers

Steve

beware of the cheap small bandsaws they aint all that good. infact i think tehy are a waste of money. i had 2 and neither worked well at all.

I'll back up Weisseyboy here - most of the small bandsaws lack the adjustments that are present in the larger (14") bandsaws and that ARE NECESSARY.

A friend of mine has purchased several mini bandsaws over the years and all except the first ( a plastic B&D that you power with a drill, no longer made) have failed to give anything like a controllable cut and all lacked basic adjustment capacity, most parts being riveted or pressed into place. I lent him some of the current bandsaw books & he got his old B&D running like a dream, all the rest were incapable of being adjusted & continue to cut interesting shapes - just not the ones he wants.

So: Save your money & get a GOOD scrollsaw. The better one have a cuting capacity very near that of a small bandsaw anyway, you just have to take your time with the thick stuff like blanks, and it will zip thru' the fine detail stuff.

I'm guessing you know about cutting comb teeth with a hacksaw/framesaw, 2 blades & a few washers, which is better than trying to do it with a machine.

A scroll saw works well enough on material thickness less than the stroke, usually about 22mm maximum; more than that, the gullets aren't self-evacuating. Then the bandsaw is a lot better.

How "tiny" is tiny? Large bandsaws are easier to "tune." And they ALL need to be tuned for best performance, e.g. fence alignment.

Cheers,
Joe

Originally Posted by joe greiner

A scroll saw works well enough on material thickness less than the stroke, usually about 22mm maximum; more than that, the gullets aren't self-evacuating. Then the bandsaw is a lot better.

Originally Posted by bsrlee

I'm guessing you know about cutting comb teeth with a hacksaw/framesaw, 2 blades & a few washers, which is better than trying to do it with a machine.

No????

So - what brand scroll saw should I be looking out for, if I'm looking second hand?

Thanks

One thing, If I was to buy another one, the one I have is a pawn shop
bargain, I would be looking at variable speed models for sure.

Originally Posted by ElizaLeahy

So - what brand scroll saw should I be looking out for, if I'm looking second hand?

Thanks

Very soon, you will have somebody along here suggesting you spend a scary amount of money on a scroll saw. In a sense they will be correct. The more expensive saws are better. Built stronger, better mechanism for attaching blades etc. Personally I have a Ryobi that I am very happy with. Make sure you get a saw that will take a pinless blade. All is not lost if you don't as many saws can have aftermarket pinless adapters added. I have replaced the pinless adapters on my Ryobi saw with aftermarket ones because I lost one. I think the aftermarket ones are a bit better (and won't get lost - a definite plus). My Ryobi definitely vibrates a bit more than I would expect a heavier saw to - but then I still haven't got around to bolting it down which I expect would help. They come with a box built around the lower arm - I guess for safety and to aid dust collection. FIrst thing I did was take off most of that box for better access to the blade attachment mechanism. Last I saw Carba Tec was selling a saw almost identical to my Ryobi just branded differently. Looks like it's currently on special for $129. That is actually I think a pretty good price for an OK saw. Just don't buy blades from them. They are expensive. I got some from ebay and some from Harris Traders (Harris Traders also have the aftermarket blade adapters).

Overall I guess it depends on how much you are going to be using it - If this is going to be something you do all the time, and expect it to pay for itself, then you might be better with a better saw - but if it's an occasional thing or a semi paying hobby then the cheaper saws I think are OK.

Peter