Quote Originally Posted by Michael Brazeau View Post
Very nice piece with nice tight lines. My only comment would be to consider a different method for the base. I have found that full segments on the bottom can split apart over time given the right conditions (dry conditions that is).

I have used three methods:

1) I have used a solid bottom which works good as long as its not larger than about 4". I had one piece where the bottom was 7" and it didn't split but it did warp the entire bowl.

2) I have used the plug method. I made a plug that was about 1.5" wide and glued it into an opening on the bottom but it dried up and left a small space where you could see light shining though. Not an issue with the stability of the piece , only cosmetic.

2) I have more recently started using a floating disc. I examined Malcom Tibbets methods for making a floating disc and came up with my own method of using a disc with a "keeper ring" on the bottom. This method allows the wood to move without any splitting or creating any visible gaps.

Segmented turning takes a lot of time to make especially when you start incorporating feature rings and its a heart breaker when you see splits on the bottom.

The first picture is a solid base about 4" wide and no problems after 2 years (my house is about 40-55 % humidity). The second picture has the plug which was ok when the picture was taken but has since opened up. I don't have a picture of a piece with the floating disc method. Hope this helps!
I feel a long-winded reply coming on.....

First, Michael, thank you very much for pointing this out to me. As a beginner to woodturning, this is my motivation for posting my work - the hope that those of you who know more than I do will help me to stay on the right track, pointing out where I've gone wrong or better ways of doing things.
Your feedback is very much appreciated.

When I make jewellery boxes, I use floating panels for both lid and base, so I knew that a solid bottom of any sort on a segmented turning could be a problem, but honestly thought (with my own twisted logic) that a 'pie' style base would be less of a problem than a solid base. We live and learn.

After reading your post, I did a quick search and came across a couple of relevant pdfs that cover the points you mentioned - one by Malcolm Tibbetts and the other by a collaboration of members of the AAW. I've downloaded copies for my collection.

'BASE-ics' (by AAW members):
http://www.tahoeturner.com/instructi...f/BASE-ics.pdf

'Constructing a Floating Base' (by Malcolm Tibbetts):
http://www.tahoeturner.com/instructi...ating_base.pdf

After reading your post and both pdfs, I reckon that a floating base is overkill on my current tiny projects, but I definitely should have used a solid base from quarter-sawn timber or used the 'deep dish' method as described in 'BASE-ics'.

To make matters worse, I'm almost finished a lidded box, 6" diameter, 4" tall, with both the lid and the base constructed using the 'pie' method, with 4 segments each. All I can do is cross my fingers with that one and hope for the best. I could still turn the centre out of the bottom and fit a plug, but it appears that that's not worth the effort since I could still end up with cracking. I'll keep it around for a while and see what happens.

A bit off-topic, but quite by coincidence, I spent part of the day trying to sort out a differential expansion problem on a feature band for the rim of a small plate.

It started to bow upwards in the centre. I've re-flattened it both sides and will have to let it sit for a while and see how it goes. Hopefully it'll settle down without cracking. A bit of a nuisance after all the time I put into making it.

I do still need to trim it to final width which will take 2-3mm off the outside and about 8mm off the inside, so that will hopefully relieve more of the stress.
The band:

h. Assembled & cleaned up.JPG

I love your work, too, Michael. That's the sort of thing I aspire to when I've finished learning the basics.

And once again, thank you for the constructive criticism.