Thread: Turning beads with skew chisel.

Try the beading and parting tool to do beads, works real good.

C&C comments and criticisms

Talking of the skew chisel, I notice that the ones at our club are 20deg from the top whereas I've seen in some publications ( mainly US) that the angle is 30deg. What is the correct angle if there is such a thing?

Originally Posted by george mavridis

Talking of the skew chisel, I notice that the ones at our club are 20deg from the top whereas I've seen in some publications ( mainly US) that the angle is 30deg. What is the correct angle if there is such a thing?

I know of a few turners that turn with a square "skew" chisel. 20 degrees seems to be the accepted thing from Europe, but as mentioned it seems Americans prefer 30 degrees? The Thompson skews are "correctly" ground to 30 degrees. Comes down to what you feel comfortable with. I have no preference really, depends on what will do the job in hand.

Jim

I turn the majority of beads with the skew, as I do the V cuts it saves time changing skew to gouge.

20 degrees is the norm, 30 degrees gives you a longer bevel which is ok for planing cuts but harder for rolling beads

Check out this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfeLAHQSbqk Allan Batty explains the reasons for the varying angles on skews very well.

AB you could also use a bedan to turn beads as Jean-Francois Escoulen does, or a Sorby "spindle master" as well as the spindle/detail gouge or the beading/parting tool as Jim mentions. I have learned to use the skew, beading/parting tool, spindle gouge, & spindle master. Haven't got around to mastering a bedan. Each has its benefits. One good practice exercise is to turn say 4 or 5 spin tops using only a 1/2" or 3/4" skew; then using only a 3/8" spindle gouge; then the same again with a "spindle master" or a beading/parting tool. You soon get to appreciate the pros & cons of each tool.

I use a skew mainly because it is easy to get a razor sharp edge, not so with a gouge (at least for me). Mine are 20* (or 40* inclusive). I assume the Thompsons are 30* inclusive (15* each side). I also find it easier to burnish the ends of handles leaving a polished (shiney) surface with no sanding with a skew.
This is the angle of the bevel, nothing to do with angle profile across the flat of the tool.

I feel I can get into a tighter area with the skew than a spindle gouge. That may be why they make a "detail spindle gouge" and a "shallow detail spindle gouge" for areas that a standard spindle gouge has problems. See Thompsons listing for spindle gouges.

I think it is more of a case of which of the tools feel comfortable for you to use. All those mentioned already are capable of producing beads so use those that suit you as long as it is used in a safe manner

Hi to you all,
Great Subject.
I have most likely said this before, so maybe again.
I have 11 Skews, be them P&N or Chinese Steel.
2 people influenced me to the way I like my Skews.
Starting out I was having many catches, then I was watching Richard Raffan. Spoke to him He offered advice which I took. I also Round Over the Corners, so they don't catch on the Tool Rest.
So I curved my Blade Edge, told the thing sitting on my shoulders, that now I wood not have any more catches, & I don't. Well not very often.
The other person was NSW Turner, George Hatfield, & his statement was, eg; if your Blade is 8mm. thick, then your Bevel should be approx. 16mm. in length.
So being twice the thickness of the Blade with a Curved, Sharpened on just my White Wheels, I can just about make those Skews talk to me.
When I say 11 Skews, Parting Tools, Beading Tools, Bedans are all Skews. All of which I have.
Comments at a Demo, " you can't do coves with a skew, but I just did it ", & you can with a bit of Practice.
Well, thatsmy2senceworth.

I only have three skews (not counting parting, etc) at 1/2", 1" and 1.5". I grind mine like Alan Lacer guides which is 1.5X the thickness which is almost 40* exact. I assume 2X thickness wolf be more like the 25* Batty described in the video link above. Mine were all straight across and I did regrind one to a curve; I had more problems with it and it was much harder to hone so they are all straight across now.
Whatever works for a person is what is good.

Originally Posted by issatree

Hi to you all,
Great Subject.
I have most likely said this before, so maybe again.
I have 11 Skews, be them P&N or Chinese Steel.
2 people influenced me to the way I like my Skews.
Starting out I was having many catches, then I was watching Richard Raffan. Spoke to him He offered advice which I took. I also Round Over the Corners, so they don't catch on the Tool Rest.
So I curved my Blade Edge, told the thing sitting on my shoulders, that now I wood not have any more catches, & I don't. Well not very often.
The other person was NSW Turner, George Hatfield, & his statement was, eg; if your Blade is 8mm. thick, then your Bevel should be approx. 16mm. in length.
So being twice the thickness of the Blade with a Curved, Sharpened on just my White Wheels, I can just about make those Skews talk to me.
When I say 11 Skews, Parting Tools, Beading Tools, Bedans are all Skews. All of which I have.
Comments at a Demo, " you can't do coves with a skew, but I just did it ", & you can with a bit of Practice.
Well, thatsmy2senceworth.

I like doing coves with a skew.

If I tell the thing sitting on your shoulders, 'that now Iwood not have any more catches' wood that work for me too

DaveTTC

Turning Wood Into Art

Hi Dave,
It all amounts to a Sharp Tool, & take the corners off the Skew, & plenty of Practice.
As is always said, " You can do anything, if you have a go."

Had a discussion tonight as to how you can do a cove with a skew. I believe you have more 'bevel' support doing a cove than a bead. Interested in others opinions. Tonight had my woodturning club meeting and our most experienced turner agreed you can do a cove with a skew.

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

This is Steve Jones, a UK production woodturner turning 51 beads with a skew.