Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 32
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default Biggest venture yet

    I am about to embark on my biggest venture yet, a large natural edge Red Mallee burl bowl, fresh from the Wood show last weekend. I might take it and do it at my turning club so that I have advice whilst turning, and they have bigger lathes with greater swings that I have and as its a beautiful piece of timber I want to maximise its size. ie I don't want to cut in half to fit my lathe.

    i am going to flatten the base first on the jointer, then flatten the spikes about 100mm round in the centre to screw the face plate to, my biggest concern however is switch mounting, which is safest, cutting a mortise for the jaws to open out into, or a foot for them to clamp down onto? or are both as safe as each other?

    thanks in advance, not fussed wither way as I will go with design flow during turning

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Caringbah, NSW
    Age
    81
    Posts
    385

    Default

    My preference is for the spigot, as I am much happier clamping it to squeeze the timber together rather than the expansion where the forces would be trying to push it apart. Quite often I flatten the bottom and then turn a groove which can be used for either way of holding. There is no protruding spigot to be removed, and a couple more grooves makes it all appear part of the design . Good luck with your venture - look forward to seeing the finished product, or better still work in progress shots.

    Cheers, Gary

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
    Posts
    4,311

    Default

    With very heavy/large blanks I screw those to a faceplate or ring and turn outside first.

    Then move to jaws for holding the outside while turning inside.

    The jaw size is an important factor.

    I use the 1/3 ratio; making the foot at least one third the diameter of the piece.

    If the foot diameter is too small for the piece it can twist off, even if held by the jaws in contraction mode.



    Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

    Default

    I have the same dilemma. A nice burl thats too big for my lathe and would be a shame to cut up and loose some of the nice pattern. Since it is only 2 days off the tree I have plenty time to think about it. Anyhow think I will get a big chuck at least.
    Regards
    John

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Burwood NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    1,247

    Default

    Fumbler
    I turn it the same as Neils describes .I normally reshape the tenon to become the foot .
    orraloon
    For a burl like this , I normally cut a slice off the flat side with a chainsaw so the remaining cone is small enough to fit on the lathe . I have a jig that holds the burl on it's edge to facilitate this ,but you should be able to chock it up some way to saw it safely . The slice you cut off can be used for several small bowls .
    Ted

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

    Default

    Yes I been thinking of something like that. I am thinking of the top slice as a side table top. Do you gauge a line to guide the chainsaw? I don't want to waste more than I have to. Posted some pics in the Woodwork General section by the way.
    I have turned some small dry burls before but this is to good looking to stuff up and I realise I am a bit under tooled at the moment.
    Regards
    John

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Burwood NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    1,247

    Default

    John
    I've only done this about three or four times but I think I just measured down from the top face in a few places and eyeballed it .I have found it's best to cut as much as possible in the one direction . If you have to come in from the other side ,make sure you can get your cutter bar well into the slot to keep cutting in the same plane .
    Ted

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    So here is the burl before being cut (although it was already cut, I pieced it back together for the pics)

    IMG_5505.jpg

    Here it is after running through the bandsaw and then turning on edge to slice a parallel flat surface for the face plate.

    IMG_5506.jpg

    And now with face plate just before screwing on, using 10g x 50mm screws.

    IMG_5507.jpg

    My eyes were actually playing tricks on me and the block was smaller than I thought, so after some careful deliberation I managed to get a decent meaty 220mm diameter block. So I can leave chucked up at home, now I just have to think about the style and shape after I true it up of course. Off to the grinder now, and knowing this stuff will leave set up behind me, turn, then turn to grind, then turn. My hips will definitely get a work out.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Flinders Shellharbour
    Posts
    5,689

    Default

    For me which ever is the top side or opening to that I screw a hard wood block. I have a couple made up 3,4 screws that match my chuck jaws and from there I will turn the outside including the foot that will match one of my chucks. I will turn it to the point the first coat of finish. Then reverse it and do the inside and fully finish it, before going back to the outside.
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    So turned round, trued up the base. Now got to think about design. She's dancing a bit due to the bulk on one edge, but it will settle down one I get the guts out. I might bring the tail stock up and leave a post in the centre for safety sake.

    i used my home made carbide tipped easy rougher and shaping bits. Easy peasy.

    IMG_5509.jpg IMG_5510.jpg IMG_5511.jpg

    Great finish straight iff the tool too.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    So here is is currently, and the wife likes it as it will be deep and usable. And I'm thinking that I might loose to much inside if if I curl in anymore.

    IMG_5515.jpg

    Here is my proposed idea.

    IMG_5519.jpg

    I would like people's opinions, I'm now tending to go with the proposed idea. And before I go turning any more off, I'll stop and gather some thoughts from you all.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Caringbah, NSW
    Age
    81
    Posts
    385

    Default

    Now you can "knuckle down and wrap it up"! After my first attempt at this style I had band-aids on every knuckle on one hand.. But it was worth it.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
    Posts
    4,311

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fumbler View Post

    I would like people's opinions, I'm now tending to go with the proposed idea. And before I go turning any more off, I'll stop and gather some thoughts from you all.
    If I was handed what you have now as a blank I would turn it into two nice shaped bowls. Part the top one off along the line of the arrows and go on from there.


    Your wife won't get a deep bowl out of it, but two nice shaped usable ones. If you do stay with one deep piece, the second design works better to my eye, the first being what I would call a dog bowl shape. Not a shape that will go well in an exhibition, although probably pleasant enough to the eye of a dog... : ~}

    PS - if you would like to turn some deep bowls, perhaps select some blank that are better optimised for that. Burls are typically turned into platter shapes and the like to best display their unique grain patterns and colours. Much of that will be hidden inside a deep bowl.

    You asked, so I've given my honest opinion. No offence intended...
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  15. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    NeilS, that's exactly what I was looking for, recommendations, and thank you, no offence was taken. And after looking at it some more it looks more like an army stew pot that's been chewed at the top by the dog!! Haha.

    its going to the sister in law in U.K. So I think the second option will be the go, and even though with it deep it may lose something, there will be more to see on the outside, kind of drawing your eyes to it. Knowing the SIL, it'll probably be kept by the front door for her house keys!!

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    Apart from NeilS, the rest of you are too slow at replying, so I went ahead with option 2. And glad I did, now comes the slow part of sanding. Power sander me thinks.

    IMG_5523.jpg

    So so I don't want to hear anyone say they preferred the chewed army pot!! Hahahaha

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. First venture into bowls
    By macandrita in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 15th January 2019, 10:39 PM
  2. a new venture
    By animal.13 in forum G'day mate - THE WELCOME WAGON -Introduce yourself
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 4th January 2012, 10:43 PM
  3. a first venture/ advice to lighten?
    By tommohawk in forum WOODCARVING AND SCULPTURE
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 29th January 2010, 06:41 PM
  4. First sailing venture - GIS by MAM
    By MiddleAgesMan in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 28th April 2009, 12:37 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •