Thread: Biggest venture yet

Looking good. That's a much more pleasing form.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Looking good. That's a much more pleasing form.

Cheers Skew, now that the big knob throwing off centre has been trimmed, I can pick the speed up a bit more, it's damn cite more balanced. I probably should've thinned out before I removed the bulk as it would've had some support. I'll just take light cuts and thin down to about 4mm.

Originally Posted by Fumbler

Got a bit further today, I sanded and turned it round in the chuck. Now starting to hollow out the centre. And also try and thin the walls out a bit as currently about 8mm.

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Looking at picture #1, if you haven't already proceeded and removed the center, do what Niels suggested and use it for a lid with a knob. I've done one like that, and the lid sitting inside the form would look good. ............... Jerry (in Tucson)USA

Originally Posted by Nubsnstubs

Looking at picture #1, if you haven't already proceeded and removed the center, do what Niels suggested and use it for a lid with a knob. I've done one like that, and the lid sitting inside the form would look good. ............... Jerry (in Tucson)USA

Jerry, that's a great idea, and no I haven't removed it yet, only one problem, I don't have any bowl saver gear to be able to cut the lid out. Any recommendations as to how I might do it with out the bowl saver?

Without corers, I would attempt to use my diamond profile parting tool (Sorby) to core out a shallow cone. The diamond profile is less prone to binding. I would still open the width of the cut just a little bit, mainly to help with clearing the shavings.

It would be more challenging with a square profile parting tool, but still worth a go.

Looking at your last photo, if cored out in this way, the lid would sit well down into the form, but that could look good. If not, you don't have to use it.

And, if the lid idea doesn't work out, your main form will be none the worse for the attempt.

Sent from my ZTE T84 using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by NeilS

Without corers, I would attempt to use my diamond profile parting tool (Sorby) to core out a shallow cone. The diamond profile is less prone to binding. I would still open the width of the cut just a little bit, mainly to help with clearing the shavings.

It would be more challenging with a square profile parting tool, but still worth a go.

Obviously you need a parting tool that has some length to the 'blade' but, more importantly, you should re-handle it with something more substantial than the handle typically provided. The one I use for this sort of thing (5mm square HSS profile) has a 30" handle. A bit of overkill, perhaps, but gives far better control and catches aren't anywhere near as damaging to me.

I always do two plunges side-by-side to give the tool clearance and minimise catches, regardless of whether using diamond- or square-profile. It wastes a bit more wood, making the kerf larger, but I'm attached to my fingers and intend to keep 'em all as long as possible...

Originally Posted by Fumbler

Jerry, that's a great idea, and no I haven't removed it yet, only one problem, I don't have any bowl saver gear to be able to cut the lid out. Any recommendations as to how I might do it with out the bowl saver?

Do what Neils suggests. I would keep my tool as close to the inside edge and keep the angle the same as the flare. Bring your tool rest up to the front of the piece. Lay your tool on it to visualize the angle you need going in, keeping the tool handle from hitting the side. It looks like the piece is plenty tall, so going through the bottom is not an issue. Keep the tail stock in position until you think you are within 1/4"-6mm from parting off. You can either break off the piece, or finish cutting it. Back off the tail stock one turn, and cut until it starts to wobble. Pull the TS away, and remove the piece.

At this point, I would remove the main form from the chuck and work on the lid. Looks like you already have a tenon, so you are in good shape. Detail it for the fit and shape you think looks good. It can be a domed lid, or somewhat flat. The tenon will become the knob after you have the bowl and lid fitted. Make sure you hollow out the inside also. That just makes lidded items so much more attractive. When satisfied, remove it from the TS and reinstall the bowl. Start by fitting the lid. When you have a good fit, then start hogging out the innards.

When satisfied with the inside, put the lid on the form while still chucked, bring up your tail stock, mount the lid, and finish off the knob as desired...That's one way of doing it.

Second option. If you want a higher dome, after you have the lid domed and hollowed to your satisfaction, drill through it and make a finial type knob to fit the drilled hole. Either way, it's going to look good........ Jerry (in Tucson)USA

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Obviously you need a parting tool that has some length to the 'blade' but, more importantly, you should re-handle it with something more substantial than the handle typically provided. The one I use for this sort of thing (5mm square HSS profile) has a 30" handle. A bit of overkill, perhaps, but gives far better control and catches aren't anywhere near as damaging to me.

I always do two plunges side-by-side to give the tool clearance and minimise catches, regardless of whether using diamond- or square-profile. It wastes a bit more wood, making the kerf larger, but I'm attached to my fingers and intend to keep 'em all as long as possible...

All very good additional advice from Andy.

Most parting tools have handle lengths suitable for spindle turning and shallow plunge cuts. As Andy points out, when used for deep plunging cuts you need a handle that is proportional to the depth of the cut.

I use a ratio of about 2-1/2 times the length of the exposed blade for the handle lengths on my bowl tools. Longer than many turners, but I find the leverage provided by that length less tiring and I can't remember the last time a tool got away from me, although I very occasionally I hoik a blank or half completed piece out of the grip of the jaws if I have gone in a bit too hard or a bit too shallow with a tenon or dovetail recess.

There would be no disadvantage in starting with Andy's 30" handle length to begin with. You can always cut a bit off later if you find it is too long for you, but harder to add a bit extra if you find that necessary. A decent ferrule is also important.

You will also need quite a long parting blade length to allow you to work with your fingers out of the reach of the high points on your natural edge... !

I should have also included the point that Jerry makes about forming the tenon recess for you chuck jaws ready for gripping before the lid blank separates.

NeilS, Skew, Nubs,

thank you you for the advice and I'm sorry to say the lid thing ain't going to work out as I keep trying to dig in to get to where the faceplate screw holes stop and it's getting smaller and smaller, so I may leave for the next project.

i also had noticed that the weight of the bulb bit had thrown things out a touch, so the walls on one side were thicker than the other (after turning around to mount the scold chuck) I then began to true up the outside, luckily to a satisfactory result, although it was looking shaky for a while, I kept getting small catches.

the walls are now 4mm thick and am semi-happy with the result, a bit of sanding should finish the rest, as I'm too scared to thin out any further.

there are also quite a few cracks developing near the base so I might get the old CA into them.

can anyone suggest a finish for this? I was thinking danish oil as don't want to use friction polish yet don't want to darken the timber too much?

Originally Posted by Fumbler

the walls are now 4mm thick and am semi-happy with the result, a bit of sanding should finish the rest, as I'm too scared to thin out any further.

4mm? That's a respectable accomplishment on a piece like this, even if it's going to take a bit of sanding to clean up properly. I'd be happy with it.

can anyone suggest a finish for this? I was thinking danish oil as don't want to use friction polish yet don't want to darken the timber too much?

Me, I like DO for this sort of thing. Either that or a blonde shellac.

For applying friction finishes off the lathe I have some linen socks which fit over lambswool buffing pads. One set up for a 4" angle-grinder, one for a 1 1/2" pad on a 'leccy drill to get into tighter spaces. The drill one isn't as effective, taking more elbow grease, as it doesn't have the RPM of the angle-grinder but it certainly beats trying to hand-rub a friction polish and sometimes that is the finish you want...

Cheers Skew Do or clear Shellac was what I was thinking. No hard rubbing needed on something brittle and awkwardly shaped. I keep going back and trying to touch up but end up doing more damage so as it's respectable at moment, I'm just going to sand and leave the outside alone now. I love and I hate burl.

I went to take photo to show the screw holes this morning but my phone died. So I kept going, here is current status.

Hi Fumbler, looks good and very interesting for me as I have several Mallee burls on the shelf and have been stalling with what to do. If you want to use the lid idea how anout turning an internal shelf from say mulga to suppory the lid fairly high up, no need for the lid to reach right out to the side wall, this gives more vision to the contrasting rim material. Enjoyed the detail you have posted. Have you any radius square carbide ? They are "softer" in the touch when hollowing an as the actual corners are off the surface less open to leave tool marks. Regds Richard.

Originally Posted by UPO

Hi Fumbler, looks good and very interesting for me as I have several Mallee burls on the shelf and have been stalling with what to do. If you want to use the lid idea how anout turning an internal shelf from say mulga to suppory the lid fairly high up, no need for the lid to reach right out to the side wall, this gives more vision to the contrasting rim material. Enjoyed the detail you have posted. Have you any radius square carbide ? They are "softer" in the touch when hollowing an as the actual corners are off the surface less open to leave tool marks. Regds Richard.

Richard, i hadn't thought about that, but thinking along those lines, i could glue the cut out to a darker timber ad turn own to create a rim. Not a bad idea.(if that's what you were eluding to). No just the square cutter im afraid, but I may invest in a radius as you so point out the corners don't grab. I have been hollowing out the centre with the round shaper but will have to swap out very shortly.

These are the 3 I made (and yes I have posted several time) as I like showing my hand polished Stainless handiwork.

Almost there, I have finished hollowing out and given a sand up to 150 but it needs more. And I think she hay still have been wet and not fully dry fight in the middle, so not sure how long it had been cut for. It just seems I sand the neck, she's nice and smooth then next morning small cracks are appearing. Might have to get a finish on it soon.

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Let's try that again
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Thats better, now inside.
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