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31st December 2023, 02:11 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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31st December 2023, 02:19 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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If you're turning a lot, ditch the table saw jig and buy an electric chainsaw. You can mount the piece inside your shop and use the chainsaw to true it up without worrying about exhaust. As far as I'm concerned the table saw is still a bad way to try and deal with out of round wood for a lathe. YMMV
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31st December 2023, 02:22 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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31st December 2023, 02:29 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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The biggest problem with the written word is it's missing ninety percent of what we need to communicate effectively. There are no voice inflections, facial expressions, hand gestures... As such, the reader is the one that puts their emotion into what they read. None of the people here are trying to have a go at anyone that has less experience but the friendlyness of our attempt is lost because we're not with you in person. I would hazard a guess that those that have more experience would be happy to send hours or even days helping out, if it were logistically possible - especially if you have copious amounts of beer.
Now, if I were to say: do you think you're trying to do you idiot... You can be petty sure I'm a prick and should be blocked because I have nothing worthwhile to say. But, unless dementia has set in early and I've completely forgotten I said that, my apologies. And you should still block me...
YMMV
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1st January 2024, 09:22 AM #20
I should have provided some further details: When using that method I held the blanks on the bandsaw with a jig so my fingers were on the opposite side of the blank to where the cutting was being done and pulling away, not pushing towards, the blade. If I slipped my fingers would be moving away from the cutting zone and not towards it.
I never attempted to do that 2nd cut freehand...
It was a relatively safe method using the jig that way and I didn't abandon it for safety reasons, but found it too time consuming for any extra benefits from preparing the blanks that way.
Nowadays I use that jig as a sled for holding the blank while doing eight straight cuts or sixteen on a very large blanks. I still keep my fingers on the opposite side of the blank to where the cutting is happening, but used like that as a sled I'm pushing towards the blade, which IMO is potentially more dangerous than my earlier method.
I have always use a jig when cutting blanks on the bandsaw and never cut freehand. That way my fingers are always well away from the 1" x 1.3tpi blade that I use, which would do a fairly rough job of cutting them off!Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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1st January 2024, 09:26 AM #21
What sort of jig do you use on your bandsaw Neil?
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1st January 2024, 10:03 AM #22
Looking again at video clip in D-G's original post, that jig arrangement also keeps the fingers well away from the blade. A bigger safety concern for me is the amount of uncaptured fine dust it creates. Not such an issue if done outside like shown, but a major issue if done inside a workshop.
One disadvantage I see with the blanks it produces is that it takes out a concave section were I would want more wood left in that area with the bowls I make. The other methods we have covered take out less wood in that area with a straight or convex cut...
Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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1st January 2024, 10:28 AM #23
I've settled on Type 17 Hex - Wood Coarse Thread. The drive end never strips out and they are quick to put in and out with a cordless drill. They will drive into green woods without a pilot hole.
The coarse thread will lift up wood fibres as they are driven in, which stops faceplates and rings from sitting flat, so I have countersunk the back of the screw holes in those to give the fibres somewhere to go.Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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1st January 2024, 10:47 AM #24
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