Thread: Bowl Blank Balancing Jig using a Tablesaw

Don't want to be a buzz kill but looks like a prime example of someone reinventing the wheel.

The whole point of a variable speed lathe is to do exactly this, only better...

I have often taken my planner to bad blanks, only for the sake of speed dont like standing there knocking the lumps off

I've also used a 'leccy plane for quick balancing.

I'd also like to point out that he does say it's handy for those with smaller lathes who want to turn large bowls. I've some old, not so fond memories of lathes doing the drunkards walk when spinning unbalanced blanks at near maximum dimensions. Even at their lowest speeds with a few bags of cement as ballast.

If something like that was available to me at the time I probably would've used it.

Bandsaws were invented to perform that task as well, more efficiently and with fewer hazards.

Tip - don't use "dry wall screws" to secure the face plate to the blank.

Originally Posted by The Spin Doctor

Don't want to be a buzz kill but looks like a prime example of someone reinventing the wheel.

The whole point of a variable speed lathe is to do exactly this, only better...

Originally Posted by hughie

I have often taken my planner to bad blanks, only for the sake of speed dont like standing there knocking the lumps off

As I do almost all of my own blank getting I already have the chainsaw in my hand and cut off any bits that I think will be an issue at that stage and, as I'm green turning, it is usually goes OK from there.

I don't get to turn many irregular fully seasoned whole blanks, in which case I would chainsaw, power plane or chisel off any really out of balance areas before starting to turn.

It does help to have a lathe that will go down to 30 or 50 rpm to do the initial rough turning on larger irregular shaped blanks. Here's a green blackwood piece mounted on a 5" chuck ready to go...

17in blackwood blank on lathe- 1.jpg

It doesn't take that long to take the corners
off when the wood is green...

Bowl surfer toolrest on rest extension.jpg

...and bring to round

IMG_2636.jpg

Hollowing is more of a challenge but I find
it is easier to do outboard...

Blackwood piece ready to hollow.jpg

20230212_160026.jpg

Another green blank. This one is walnut...

20230524_172930.jpg

Walnut pre-turned.jpg

The point I'm attempting to make here is, within safety limits, regardless of the size of the lathe, its how low the speed will go down to on your lathe. And, also, how heavy your lathe is in relation to the out of balance blanks being turned.

Beyond that it is a matter of preference on how much time and effort you want to spend on preparing the blank before you begin to turn. I've varied a bit on that erring one way and then the other.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

Bandsaws were invented to perform that task as well, more efficiently and with fewer hazards.

Some time ago when I had a source of very seasoned hardwood blanks (firewood pieces) I twice cut then on the bandsaw. 1st cut to bring the outer edge to round and then tilted the table for a 2nd cut to remove some of the irregularities closer to the foot area. I stopped cutting the blanks round on the bandsaw and that doing that 2nd cut a long time ago. Now I just do eight straight cuts with the bandsaw if I don't think what is coming off the chainsaw is near enough. Beyond that I find I get diminishing returns and that it is quicker to bring to round on the lathe.

Hi Neil, sorry I can’t see your images, I don’t believe I have access rights as of yet. I agree with what you are saying. If I had a large heavy lathe that could run at a very slow speed I would not need this jig. I have a smaller lathe with a reeves drive and the lowest speed is 600 RPM. My bandsaw is not big enough to handle a large blank. This balancing jig allows me to turn larger green bowls with my present equipment. Maybe my wife will surprise me with a new lathe for my birthday….

I agree that the 8 sided approach is the best. I found this out as my first bandsaw at only 3/4hp struggled to cut rounds in thick blanks so I took the easy way out. Now with a bigger saw and lathe I still do the just knock off the corners method. Been known to use the leccy plane on out of balance blanks myself at times. I guess its down to what you have to work with and being mindful of the risks involved.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by orraloon

I agree that the 8 sided approach is the best. I found this out as my first bandsaw at only 3/4hp struggled to cut rounds in thick blanks so I took the easy way out. Now with a bigger saw and lathe I still do the just knock off the corners method. Been known to use the leccy plane on out of balance blanks myself at times. I guess its down to what you have to work with and being mindful of the risks involved.
Regards
John

Yup this goes for me as well

Originally Posted by D_Gerard

Hi Neil, sorry I can’t see your images, I don’t believe I have access rights as of yet. I agree with what you are saying. If I had a large heavy lathe that could run at a very slow speed I would not need this jig. I have a smaller lathe with a reeves drive and the lowest speed is 600 RPM. My bandsaw is not big enough to handle a large blank. This balancing jig allows me to turn larger green bowls with my present equipment. Maybe my wife will surprise me with a new lathe for my birthday….

D_G

Understood!

Nobody here is jumping on you for the approach you are taking. If it works for you then that's all that counts. You certainly have some challenges with a small lathe and min speed of 600rpm.

I see you are new to the forum, so to explain a bit, what happens at times here is that the more experienced members of the forum will see something that is a bit left field and feel obliged to comment so that any less experienced members don't read the thread and go down that path without the benefit some helpful advice on the topic. Looking at those that posted a response, what I can see is about 100yrs of collective turning experience freely giving their advice at no charge...... take it, or leave it!

Where else can you get such good advice, at no cost, and no GST added?!

All the very best with getting that new lathe for your birthday.

And, welcome to the forum.

Originally Posted by NeilS

Some time ago when I had a source of very seasoned hardwood blanks (firewood pieces) I twice cut then on the bandsaw. 1st cut to bring the outer edge to round and then tilted the table for a 2nd cut to remove some of the irregularities closer to the foot area. I stopped cutting the blanks round on the bandsaw and that doing that 2nd cut a long time ago. Now I just do eight straight cuts with the bandsaw if I don't think what is coming off the chainsaw is near enough. Beyond that I find I get diminishing returns and that it is quicker to bring to round on the lathe.

Perhaps I should have elaborated, I'm definitely not a fan of the "perfect circle" bowl blanks cut from boards run through a thicknesser to produce perfectly flat & parallel faces. All though they do serve a purpose supplying a market segment who don't have the necessary tools / machines to process their own blanks, or for postage / shipping.

I'm more an 8 cut person on the bandsaw with processing bowl blanks, with even more processed with my corded or battery chainsaws only. Only do the necessary effort to be able to rough them safely on the lathe.

My point was that no matter which method you prefer to process bowl blanks there are hazards and risk.

Some machines present a very high risk profile - with table saws causing more injuries and quite severe injuries at that, than any other machine in hobbyists workshops. Have a look at the USA - 35k plus injuries per year!

Table saws present an even higher risk when performing tasks they were never designed nor intended for. "Turning" bowl blanks round is one such task. Yes it is possible - is it recommended??? IMHO it falls into the here hold my beer category!!!

Have your mobile phone handy and make sure you can used either hand to dial 000.

ps I only make these statements because I care and I hate seeing woodies getting injured.

Originally Posted by NeilS

D_G

Understood!

Nobody here is jumping on you for the approach you are taking. If it works for you then that's all that counts.

We aren't jumping on you - we care for your welfare and that of your wider family and circle of friends! Unfortunately some of us have seen some very nasty injuries to others. Tablesaws have a nasty bite and it can get very messy in milli-seconds! Injuries have a huge impact on all around you, not just yourself.

One of the challenges of learning to operate wood processing machinery is understanding the potential and ever present hazards of each machine and process, the risks associated with them and the potential harm (Table saw kickback etc) they can cause. Some risk will always be there no matter how good an operator you think you are, and no matter how much experience you have. It's simply a fact that "good operators" avoid very risky tasks and seek less risky options.

Have fun wood turning. If we can help you out you just have to ask.

Originally Posted by NeilS

Some time ago when I had a source of very seasoned hardwood blanks (firewood pieces) I twice cut then on the bandsaw. 1st cut to bring the outer edge to round and then tilted the table for a 2nd cut to remove some of the irregularities closer to the foot area. I stopped cutting the blanks round on the bandsaw and doing that 2nd cut a long time ago.

Found an old redgum example of that... no wonder I gave that idea away a long time ago!

20231230_181200.jpg