Thread: Second box, some spalted Jacarnda and questions!

Originally Posted by mic-d

Now I'm not a big user of CA, more a sort of buy a tube from Bunnies when I need to fix something then put the rest in the fridge to go off. I've seen videos of turners with pretty big squeeze bottles of CA and sometimes an accelerator, does this stuff go off slower than the tubes you buy at the hardware? Can I get some product recommendations for thin CA for these turning applications please?

I store the small CA bottles upright with their caps off inside a larger container with an airtight lid. It's the moisture in the air that sends them off. I add some desiccating packets, like you get with medications, in with the CA bottles to minimise the moisture inside the storage container. The bottles with the thin CA might start to thicken up a bit after six months, so that then becomes my medium CA, and the medium CA then becomes my thick CA...

Originally Posted by NeilS

I store the small CA bottles upright with their caps off inside a larger container with an airtight lid. It's the moisture in the air that sends them off. I add some desiccating packets, like you get with medications, in with the CA bottles to minimise the moisture inside the storage container. The bottles with the thin CA might start to thicken up a bit after six months, so that then becomes my medium CA, and the medium CA then becomes my thick CA...

Thanks Neil! Could you give me an idea of whether I would need thin, medium and thick CA for turning applications? That split I mentioned above along a growth ring which has opened up a little gap that I can press closed, is that something I'd use the thin one for? And do you have a preferred supplier? So many questions you'll be sorry you replied!
Cheers

Originally Posted by mic-d

I was alo given some spalted Jacaranda, tiny rounds. First I thought I would just get a feel for it, guess I made a Saki cup? Is there a best way to turn this stuff because it just wanted to tearout, maybe too punky?). I eventually sanded it, but even the paper sanded the soft stuff more than the hard and the effect is kinda... wavey.

Yeah, punky stuff can be a right PITA. Lovely to look at, a mongrel to turn. :\

I like to turn down near to size and then apply a stabiliser for the last few cuts. Apply coat, turn it away, apply a coat, turn it away, rinse & repeat until I'm actually at size.

Generally I discover whether I'll need a stabiliser while I'm still far from final size, so while bringing it down size I'll do a few 'pretend' finish cuts and try shellac first, to see if that'll do the job or whether I should try something else. It also gives me an idea as to how badly the punk will soak up the stabiliser; sometimes they really soak it up and discolour a bit.

My preference is a thin, diluted shellac 'cos I can generally go back to turning within a few minutes. There are times I've resorted to a wash of dilute PVA glue instead.

Better to find out on how it goes on a 'pretend finished surface' than when you're actually down to final size.

And also is there some sort of small sandpaper holder to sand inside these small objects and keep fingers away?

Yeah... For years I used dowels with a slot cut into the one end. Can insert paper so it looks like like a flap sander for sanding sides (It can even be used AS a flap sander. ) or just straight out the end like a paddle for doing the bottoms.

A few years back I was put onto the cheap foam spatulas used by arty crafty people. They can be cut to profile to provide backing for the sandpaper but they do tend to use more sandpaper . (I gotta cut the strips bigger so I can rubber-band 'em on. Tape doesn't seem to work and I'm a tightarse. )

I like the idea of a stabiliser like shellac. I've sized with dilute hide glue in the past, not for turning, but it does a similar job. Not quite as convenient as shellac and dries slow like PVA but I often have a bit on the go to try. thanks for the tips Skew!

Originally Posted by mic-d

Thanks Neil! Could you give me an idea of whether I would need thin, medium and thick CA for turning applications? That split I mentioned above along a growth ring which has opened up a little gap that I can press closed, is that something I'd use the thin one for? And do you have a preferred supplier? So many questions you'll be sorry you replied!
Cheers

Mic-D

Rather than replying to that in this thread, if you start a separate thread with a subject heading like 'Advice on CA glue' I'm sure you will get lots of good input on that to which I can also reply.

That way you are leaving this thread to concentrate on various methods for stabilising wood.

The CA I use exclusively is the cheap thin stuff form Bunnies its around $2 for a card of ten. I used to buy various grades. But then I found usage versus age it wasnt worth it as the loss due to specialisation meant they sat around unused most of the time.
Keeping, yup desiccant, airtight container and keep in your frost free fridge , it will last darn forever. Then there is SWMBO...... TO contend with

I'm with you on keeping the super glue in the fridge lasts forever in my humble opinion.

Originally Posted by hughie

The CA I use exclusively is the cheap thin stuff form Bunnies its around $2 for a card of ten. I used to buy various grades. But then I found usage versus age it wasnt worth it as the loss due to specialisation meant they sat around unused most of the time.
Keeping, yup desiccant, airtight container and keep in your frost free fridge , it will last darn forever. Then there is SWMBO...... TO contend with

Originally Posted by mature one

I'm with you on keeping the super glue in the fridge lasts forever in my humble opinion.

Thanks Hughie, I'll give that card pack a go. The problem I have with CA stored in the fridge for any length of time is the nozzle cruds up. Last tube I had, I had to cut the nozzle back further and further until it was useless at directing the glue anywhere and so I tossed it out.

Mic, Been there, what I have found always make sure your CA tube is upright at all times, so the nozzle can drain back into the body below. I have a little chunk-block of Styrofoam slotted by a Stanley knife cut to keep the tube upright when its not in use.

Originally Posted by hughie

Mic, Been there, what I have found always make sure your CA tube is upright at all times, so the nozzle can drain back into the body below. .

Once open I never put the cap back on and with the bottles I bump down several times to encourage the CA to drain down inside the nozzle. Just make sure that none spits up into your eyes when doing that.