Thread: Cant shift the faceplate

Arron,
I have cut a washer from a plastic icecream container which goes between the meeting surfaces and this has overcome the problem for me.

Rhys H.

a thin washer will stop them sticking. one cut rom a 1mm gal sheet. or even from cardboard helps but dosent last long.

hope this helps.

I have a number of precision machined washers some perspex and some metal, I fit one of these over the drive shaft before putting on the face plate or other chucks, this makes for easy removal of all attachments. You may need an engineer to make you the metal one but the perspex ones you can make quite easily yourself Mine are 3mm thickness from memory.

For now though, make sure the back of the chuck/faceplate etc and the backing section on the spindle are both clean and free of rust, wax and all other contaminants. Do not let the face plat slam home on the spindle this will jam it every time. If you can't get it off give it a couple of really good sharp wacks with the hammer on the bit that sticks out the back end of the face plate it should come off fairly easy after that.

Cheers - Neil

I've had the same problem, but at the same time I had a couple of leaking taps in the house, so I got one of those $1.50 packets of multi tap washers. Not only did I fix my taps but there was a washer in there that fit on the lathe fixing that problem too

Some good suggestions here. I use a leather washer and have no more problems.

With due respect to the honorable Neil (Ubeaut), I would use a soft-faced hammer rather than a steel persuader.

thanks for the replies, guys.

I dont really understand what Neils solution will do though. Does it deform the bit that sticks out of the back of the faceplate, and why does this help ?

thanks
Arron

Nah, it just makes you feel better while you figure out a real solution.

When you screw the faceplate or chuck on make
sure you take it firmly right to the end of the thread.

If you leave even the most minute gap, then turn
on the lathe, it will most likely snap it on harder.

Allan

__________________________________________

You can't teach an old mouse new clicks.

Ditto what Neil and Allan say about firm seating, to prevent the lathe from working like an impact tool.

Absent knowledge of your headstock spindle and faceplate configurations, this suggestion may not work for all:
Secure the spindle with a spanner (index pin not advisable, as such use can destroy indexing capability). Place a SURPLUS Allen key in one of the holes in the faceplate, so that the long leg hangs over the hub. Smite the leg with a hammer to knock the faceplate loose.

Joe

Originally Posted by Fireguard

I've had the same problem, but at the same time I had a couple of leaking taps in the house, so I got one of those $1.50 packets of multi tap washers. Not only did I fix my taps but there was a washer in there that fit on the lathe fixing that problem too

thats a big ditto from me too Lost the bloody washer the other day and couldnt find the spare so went to m10 and bought a packet of same size for coupladollars and hung em on a hook cos they work the best they are the red fibre type and I've never had a stick since using them Regards WW Wally

I screw the 'steel' faceplate on the spindle by hand, up to where it contacts the spindle face. Then I put a rod in the hole on the edge of the faceplate, and give it a rap with the heel of my hand. That seats the faceplate against the spindle face firmly so it won't tighten when turning.
It takes a slightly harder rap on the rod to unseat the faceplate when I'm ready to remove it.
Notice that I said "steel" faceplate. The only problem I've had is with an aluminum faceplate. Something about the steel threads galling the aluminum threads...

AFAIK the problem is one of stiction.

I've cut a washer out of a plakky milk carton - damn tough stuff.

Prob a smear of Dri Lube would do as well, though you'd need to watch gunk build up. (More entertaining than most stuff on the box these days anyway).

Originally Posted by joe greiner

Secure the spindle with a spanner (index pin not advisable, as such use can destroy indexing capability). Joe

Just to add to this: the Vicmarc 175 I had would cope with the index pin being used to hold the spindle; the Stubby would not.

HDPE from a milk carton is dandy bearing material. UHMWPE is poor man's Teflon, and HDPE is poor man's UHMW. But make sure you cut it from the centre of a flat side, and verify uniform thickness. A wedge-shaped washer is not very good for shimming a faceplate.

Joe