Thread: Celtic Knots

Having now looked closer at the photo, I will change the design on the next one having a better transition from the lage diameter to the neck etc.

Good job on building up the knot, the joints align quite nicely.

As to the colour difference, it's difficult to see in the photo but it looks like the end-grain of the WRC has 'filled' with sawdust (from sanding, perhaps?) and that can cause just such an effect. Typically the colour variance is the other way around, with the end-grain being darker.

One way to visually minimise this is to, instead of using one timber for the inserts, make up a sandwiched laminate of contrasting coloured timbers.

eg. if you're cutting a 5mm kerf, build up a laminate of 3mm 'feature' wood sandwiched between 1mm veneers of a much darker or lighter material. Unlike 'proper' ply I like to keep the grain direction aligned in the same way.

Thanks for reply.
I have noticed two different ways of setting up the Celtic knot.
The way I did these i had X on each side. The other way has one diagonal on each side.
Any thoughts?

Nice one!! Good to see Knots on items other than pens!!

Originally Posted by Brianne163

Thanks for reply.
I have noticed two different ways of setting up the Celtic knot.
The way I did these i had X on each side. The other way has one diagonal on each side.
Any thoughts?

Been thinking about my question here. Suddenly the penny dropped....The Youtube videos showing the diagonals only were cut on a table saw whereas mine with the X were cut on a bandsaw. Duuh......

Personally, I prefer the table saw cut blanks, much crisper joints, but requires good jigs and hold down clamps. X's - 180 degree flips; or diags with 90 degree rotations - is a personal preference thing. For a 4 cut Celtic knot I use 180 flips. However if doing a 6 cut the continuous rotation seems to work better for cutting, the last cut will always be "off pattern". I prefer the 180 flip method, the cuts seem to look symmetrical and methodical.

Nice looking knot btw. What are the dimensions of the piece?

an after thought - the grain in the infill will always "look different" due to it always having its grain alignment diagonal to the axis of the main blanks grain, so will reflect / absorb light differently to it and the adjacent infills. Contamination with sanding dust is a another story and requires good tool work, sanding sealers and minimal sanding on open pored woods like WRC.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

Nice looking knot btw. What are the dimensions of the piece?

.

Thanks
4 1/2" high and approx. 1 5/8" max diameter. 7/16" hole for tube, fits perfectly. Tubes from China.Plastic. 50 for $9.95 Free Postage

Originally Posted by Brianne163

Thanks
4 1/2" high and approx. 1 5/8" max diameter. 7/16" hole for tube, fits perfectly. Tubes from China.Plastic. 50 for $9.95 Free Postage

If that's your first try at a Celtic knot then it's a dammed site better than mine



That was all done, cutting wise, on my band saw and I obviously didn't get the inserts quite right. That one of yours looks really good, but if you really want the inserts to look the same all round you could always use plactic! Or otherwise cut the inserts across the grain to match the angle they are inserted!

No way! Wood has a grain and that grain is totally natural and is unique because of that. Your vase looks great to me and the difference in the grain, end to side, is natural. You want indentical, then use plastic. You want good then use natural.

The alignment that I can see on the vase is very good and obviously carefully done. Keep it up mate!

I reshaped the neck on my first one. Looks better. Did another one using Yellow Wattle and pine. The third one is just yellow Wattle.
I cut my slots on a band saw too, use a setup jig on the slide to make sure the cut is always at the same distance from one end. I think one of the most important aspects after that is to make sure the insert is the correct thickness so that when glued up under clamp pressure, the sides are still flat and in line. I always saw 9/10ths through to make sure all stays in place when glueing. Make sure glue is all over the insert, remove and reinsert to make sure the spread is even. If you miss any spot, there is likely to be a tear out when cutting as that spot not glued to the rest. Thanks for all the likes and comments.

Forgot to add the photo of the latest three.
DSC_8096.jpg

Originally Posted by Jonzjob

If that's your first try at a Celtic knot then it's a dammed site better than mine

Your goblet looks pretty good.

Originally Posted by Brianne163

Your goblet looks pretty good.

Thank you, but it isn't quite even

I came up with an incredibly complicated jig for doing the knots on pens



The bit screwed onto the square is the correct length for the blank and the 90º is for the cut. It works a treat and took about 5 minutes to make. I cut to about 1/16" from the end and that gives some flexibility so that I can open the cut slightly to put the insert in. That stops the glue from being pushed off of the insert. I do the same for any knot I do. It's a relativly easy thing to do and it looks very impressive me-thinks..

This was the first pen with it



I decided on the shape because I find it easier to use with the arthritis in my hands

Originally Posted by Brianne163

Thanks for reply.
I have noticed two different ways of setting up the Celtic knot.
The way I did these i had X on each side. The other way has one diagonal on each side.
Any thoughts?

I missed your post here Brianne, a senior moment??? But I have always cut a diagonal, glued the insert in, left it to dry. Then turn 90º and repeat and usinf the jig above you will finish up with the cuts at exaclty the same place. So as long as the blank is then mounted centrally it must be even.

Use a drop saw and a jig for glueing much easier.
Mick