Thread: Chain Saw chains

Originally Posted by jaybird

Hi, I've been trying out my chainsaw and it cuts great with a new chain and cross cutting but sawing down the grain to get a bowl blank it's hard going. A chap that was with me said I need a different chain with different set. Can anyone advise on this.
Thanks

Yes it will be hard going especially if the wood is dry.

Your "chap" may have been referring to the use of a lower (10º versus 25-30º) top plate filing angle which is used by chainsaw millers.
This makes a small difference in the finish of chainsaw milled timber but won't make any difference in cutting difficulty.

The other option is to use skip chain but I doubt you are cutting anything large enough to warrant this type of chain.

Most end grain cutting issues relate to not sharpening often enough or correct setting of the cutters.
How often do you sharpen the chain and how often do you lower the rakers?

Post as close up as you can, direct side on photo of some of your cutters and I will diagnose any issues.

Also what saw and bar length are you using, and what sort timber are you cutting.

Thanks Bobi,
I sharpen regularly but maybe not enough for this type of cutting. I'm using a MS 230c Sthil 400mm/16inch Bar. At the moment I have just put a new chain on it so photos probable wont help. I have been looking at some type of gum that has just been dropped on the block next door that would be about 400mm Dia. and there is some big tea tree there as well. Other than that anything that comes available. I'm just getting back into turning after about a 12 year break because of business, now retired.

In hard wood the cutters should be touched up after every tank full of fuel, just enough to remove any glint on the cutter edge.
The rakers should be swiped every 3-4 tanks.

The MS 230 is a 40 cc saw so I would not expect too much of it in terms of speed when cutting end grain especially in a 400 mm cut. For that size end grain cut I would recommend at least a 70cc saw.

Thanks I'ii bear that in mind.

I suspect you have trying to cut your log the wrong way round . Lay your log on it's side and cut slices down either side of the pith . If you stand the log on end and try to cut down into it you will find it very hard going .
The are several utube videos available showing the technique .
Ted

Originally Posted by turnerted

I suspect you have trying to cut your log the wrong way round . Lay your log on it's side and cut slices down either side of the pith . If you stand the log on end and try to cut down into it you will find it very hard going .
The are several utube videos available showing the technique .
Ted

Those are my thoughts also. I'm using a skip tooth chain, and ground the teeth about 10 degrees. I used to cut end grain orientation, but now lay it down and cut as Ted indicated.............. Jerry (in Tucson)USA

Thanks Ted, I'll give that a go.

If your chain is used for any cross grain cutting of green timber then I suggest care when using 10º top plate filing angle (TPFA).
The reason that chains use for cross cutting use 25-35º TPFS is so they cut a slightly wider kerf that at 10º TPFA.
Chain don't so much as "cut" as "tear" wood out of a kerf so with cross cutting, short torn fibres are much more likely hanging inside the kerf which tends to block the clearance of sawdust.
This and the generally narrower kerf may result in the bar jamming in the cut - especially if the bar rails wear unevenly which tilts the chain resulting in the saw starting to cut in a curve.

With "end" and "along the grain" cutting there are far fewer torn fibres hanging inside the kerf so thats when a 10º can be used.

That said, I do have a saw that has a 10º TPFA chain that I do a lot of cross cutting with, but I make sure the rails are dressed and square.

I do what Turner Ted advises. I use the normal cross cut sharpening, and keep the chain sharp. I have found the long stringy chips will sometimes collect inside the sprocket housing and if not kept cleaned out will get between the chain and sprocket and throw off the chain.

Depending on type of timber and how wet or dry chips will be 100 - 150 mm long.

I use a Stihl 029 with an 18 inch bar. That is usually long enough to break down bowl blanks. If I am spitting something longer I will cut down with the nose of the bar up about half way through, then go to the other side and stick the nose of the bar down in the slot to follow the cut, pull towards me until the engine clears the end of the log and then cut down to almost through, then go to the other side and cut through.

Thanks, all good advice I can work with.

Originally Posted by Paul39

I do what Turner Ted advises. I use the normal cross cut sharpening, and keep the chain sharp. I have found the long stringy chips will sometimes collect inside the sprocket housing and if not kept cleaned out will get between the chain and sprocket and throw off the chain.

Depending on type of timber and how wet or dry chips will be 100 - 150 mm long.

I use a Stihl 029 with an 18 inch bar.

Like Ted & Paul, I rip lengthwise. Mostly using my 18in bar (on 72cc Husky) with chain sharpened for hardwood crosscut. Very occasionally I use a 28in bar for bigger stuff with square chisel chain, but that is a hassle unless you are going to use it enough to learn how to sharpen correctly.

And, yes, the long noodle shavings tend to collect and pack inside the drive sprocket clutch cover. Getting your log off the ground so the noodles fall away freely will help a bit and modifying the sprocket clutch cover may also be necessary to reduce the problem; but a note of caution, altering that can expose you to an area of the chain, which the cover is intended to protect you from.

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Originally Posted by NeilS

. . . . . and modifying the sprocket clutch cover may also be necessary to reduce the problem; but a note of caution, altering that can expose you to an area of the chain, which the cover is intended to protect you from.

Here is a custom made clutch cover I made for my MS880 on mu chainsaw mill.
I haven't used it to make many noodles but when I have it never choked up.
clutch8802.jpg

Modified the exhaust as well.
allonn.jpg

Originally Posted by BobL

Here is a custom made clutch cover I made for my MS880 on mu chainsaw mill.
I haven't used it to make many noodles but when I have it never choked up.
clutch8802.jpg

Modified the exhaust as well.
allonn.jpg

Nice job, Bob.

I expect with the exhaust directed down in that position you will also get some assistance with blowing the shavings away.

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Originally Posted by NeilS

Nice job, Bob.
I expect with the exhaust directed down in that position you will also get some assistance with blowing the shavings away.

Yep - rarely have to walk on more than about a 1" thick layer of sawdust when milling even a large log.
This shot shows how far it sprays the saw dust.
The thickest layer of sawdust is abut 2m away from the log
Bobsnew-millingstyle.jpg

It was not deliberately designed that way - it's a complete fluke that it worked out