Thread: Chainsaws

Originally Posted by DJ's Timber

Do you have a link to this Bob?

I spent a few minutes trying to find it but no luck. I will ask my mates over on the arboristsite - that's where I first saw it.

Originally Posted by mach70

.....Electrics are also a lot quieter so if you are cutting in the backyard it wont upset the neighbours as much......

Where the fun in that?

Originally Posted by BobL

Not many people are aware that chaps don't work against electric chainsaws.

Still wear the chaps - far better the saw chewing up some material first.
I did a fair bit of research into injuries associated with wood turning etc and came across some very interesting US stats on chainsaw injuries - very few people get killed as a result of a tangle with a chainsaw - but the average injury involves some 110 stitches.

Go with the steel toe caps, chaps, helmet & visor plus a good set of ear muffs. It still surprises me the number of "professionals" who harvest wood without the minimum PPE as is mandatory in any commercial use of a chainsaw.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

Still wear the chaps - far better the saw chewing up some material first.

Couldn't agree more.

I just wish the chaps weren't so bloody hot to wear, especially this time of year. And they're so thick, I can hardly bend my legs to pick up anything that drops to the floor. (Approaching old age is also a factor though.)

Originally Posted by Timless Timber

If you don't buy a set of chainsaw chaps first - don't buy a chainsaw.

+1 on that.

I keep one electric chainsaws for working near the house (and neighbours) - they are quieter!

But a good electric one (Stihl or Husky) is still not cheap. The cheap ones have nylon gears that last no time at all.

If you can find one, a second hand Stihl or Husky electric would be a good buy. Most don't get much use and you don't have to worry about whether the previous owner got the fuel mix wrong.

Note: In some ways electric chainsaws are more dangerous than fuel models. They take much longer to come to a stop after releasing the trigger and the momentum of the electric motor can drag the chain through a lot of flesh while doing so.

Quieter is only safer for your ears.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

Still wear the chaps - far better the saw chewing up some material first.

Given a choice I would still wear chaps while using an electric saw because they better protect against other situations when cutting even if they don't do much for chain cuts. The sorts of things I am referring to are thinks like a chain coming off or knocks and bruises etc. Not only do chaps do little to prevent a cut from an electric CS they may make things worse.

All CS cuts are nasty because chainsaw chain tears about the same amount as it cuts. So as well as cutting, it removes "stuff" and leaves highly jagged wound edges that take longer to heal than a clean cut by a by a sharp instrument. The fabric covering on a set of chaps offers little more protection that a pair of jeans and a single sharp CS cutter will slice straight through it. Chaps rely heavily on their loosely bundled kevlar fibre innards being pulled out by the chain, jamming the drive sprocket and stalling the motor. This won't happen as easily with an electric CS which has much more torque at lower RPM than petrol powered saws. What then also happens is the (usually very dirty) bundles of kevlar fibres that are supposed to stall the motor are then continually dragged through the wound leaving an absolute mess for surgeons to clean up otherwise infection etc becomes a major issue. Even when regular clothing is cut it is torn and dragged into the wound and causes problems.

But - I would still wear them.

How many folks know about the need to keep chaps clean so that the kevlar or polyester fibres are free to run out of the cut and jam the saw and how to properly clean them.
Chap Specifications & Care

Originally Posted by BobL

How many folks know about the need to keep chaps clean so that the kevlar or polyester fibres are free to run out of the cut and jam the saw and how to properly clean them.
Chap Specifications & Care

I certainly didn't. Thanks for the link.

Chaps and good boots are a great idea but its pointless when you see how many people still use the left foot which is only inches from a serious injury to hold down what they're cutting

as for saws ,all good advise,but don't ditch the idea of the mcculloch,i know a few people that absolutly abuse them little saws and they just keep going,my brother has one and sad to say he treats it bad,its had 3bars in about 2 years numerous chains and i even seen him cutting corrugated iron with it,i think with proper care and maintenance it would be ok,personally i own mostly stihls ,i have repaired a few of those mitre 10 $100 saws and to be honest they are pretty good,only real let down with them is the garbage filter,fuel lines and carb gaskets,but if your mechanically minded or know someone that works on small engines for beer they are worth looking at

Originally Posted by CJR72

Chaps and good boots are a great idea but its pointless when you see how many people still use the left foot which is only inches from a serious injury to hold down what they're cutting

Or to cut up a fallen tree or branch above the ground they stand right up against the log with their boots under the log and cut by standing next to the saw and rotate the saw so the nose comes close to their boot. A guy I know felling trees in -2º C weather cut 3 toes off doing this.

A while ago I posted THIS THREAD asking about a cheap chainsaw and had pretty much the same replies and advice; but owing to the lack of 2nd hand stuff here in Bundy I ended up with an E-bay cheapy, THIS ONE. It cost me around $170 delivered and uses genuine Oregon chain and bar.

The purpose of the saw was only to get rid of a dozen or so palms. Since then it has been used very intermittently; on average it only gets fired up once every 4 months. The only thing I've done with it is replace the chain as I quickly discovered that: 1) electric chainsaw sharpeners take off WAYYYYY too much metal; and 2) don't try to cut palm tree root balls that are full of grit coz they blunt a chain quicker than I can blink. This machine has performed splendidly.

I would never pretend that this machine is a quality machine that will cut down a forest every year for the next twenty; but on the other hand with the amount of usage I give it it'll probably last that long anyway. It has completely paid for itself and if it self destructs on the next pull I'll just toss it and buy a new one as I expect the availability of 2nd hand Stihls will still be a bit poor. I might consider a new mini-boss but I couldn't justify the price of a bigger machine new.

My personal thoughts? If you can't afford a big brand machine try one of these, and spend the rest of your budget on PPE.

I know the safety issue is a bit off topic, but BobL, thanks for the injury info. I'm always happy to learn. I will cut next time with renewed caution.

Bruce

Originally Posted by BCC

I know the safety issue is a bit off topic...

IMO, safety issues are never off topic when it comes to chainsaws!

Originally Posted by NeilS

IMO, safety issues are never off topic when it comes to chainsaws!

Safety issues are never off topic when it comes to any powered tools subject.

When you read through accident statistics & research it becomes very apparent that if the injured person had taken the time to read the instruction manual supplied with the tool, obtained the recommended personal protective equipment and followed widely published safe operating proceedures, they most likely would not have been injured or at least the severity of the injury would have been greatly reduced.

The comment above re no PPE - no operation of the tool is to be considered a not negotiable no matter how small the job at work or at home.

A good mate who was a very experienced tradesman nearly lost all fingers to an angle grinder with a meat axe blade all because he just wanted to do a quick job. A minute changing to a grinding disk would have saved 6 months off work etc etc. At work he knew he would be sacked if he used the grinder in that manner. He was at home - no rules - but he knew he was doing the wrong thing and could "get away with it" because of his skill and experience as he knew the risk and how to control it. So so wrong!