Thread: Ci1 Easy Rougher Review by Cliff.

No problems hanging on if you don't have too much overhang.

When I broke mine, I was still holding the handle when all the flying bits came to rest.

The biggest problem I have with this thing is getting hit with flying chips.

The chip deflector is a must &, if the blank isn't round & there is a lot of vibration, the chip deflector can come loose. Mine has popped off more than once & one time it went into the work & got batted around the room.

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

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At this stage I'm using the Ci1 to rough & then I'm cleaning it up with my HS1, this means that I don't have to sharpen the HS1 as often.
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I think this sums up the need/purpose of the Ci1 exactly. Having been following the various other threads re. cryo, different steel formulas and sharpening preferences et. al. the less material we remove from our gouges/chisels the better. Also less time at the grinder = more time at the lathe.

Originally Posted by rsser

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And the Rougher seems to me just to be a scraper on steroids.
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Thanks Ern, you've given me a reason to laugh and I needed it today .

Any time GJ ;-}

Cliff, thanks. What would be the prospect of mounting the cutter on a square shaft but at 45 degrees to the workpiece travel? That would send the chips a bit sideways and give a cleaner cut?

Originally Posted by rsser

Any time GJ ;-}

Cliff, thanks. What would be the prospect of mounting the cutter on a square shaft but at 45 degrees to the workpiece travel? That would send the chips a bit sideways and give a cleaner cut?

Good idea 99, sorry, rsser! but would it work? no, not another project!
The original deflector could easily be modified to stay put, no problem. For those thinking in trying to make one, remember all bench grinders have nice big deflectors, sometimes 2 of them, maybe steal one or order some as spares for those gouges in construction...!

Cheers
RBTCO

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

I think this sums up the need/purpose of the Ci1 exactly. Having been following the various other threads re. cryo, different steel formulas and sharpening preferences et. al. the less material we remove from our gouges/chisels the better. Also less time at the grinder = more time at the lathe.

Hi John,

In the end of the day, and being realistic about one's labour value, you are absolutely right...!

If you can afford it, get 2 or 3 Ci1's (one per cutter type) and the same for the Ci2. This way it will save you lots of time, meaning more turning possibilities, seriously.!

PS: No, I'm not contradicting myself, and yes, I'm guilty but, I just thing the truth should be told!(exception to the rule, could apply...!)

Cheers
RBTCO

Originally Posted by rsser

......What would be the prospect of mounting the cutter on a square shaft but at 45 degrees to the workpiece travel? That would send the chips a bit sideways and give a cleaner cut?

I fiddled with using the TCT cutting tips on a half round tool holder before Craig offered me the whole tool to review.

See here for pics of the set up & here for that first review.

Post 37 is where I said I didn't have any luck as a shear scraper but that was because of the tool holder, I had to have too much over hang & I couldn't control it.

That doesn't mean it can't be done.

Thanks again Cliff.

DVD on it's way btw.

How are these tools presented to the work on a metal lathe? In a similar way? Or just the point? What is their usual angle of attack? (has this been discussed somewhere else? )

Originally Posted by tea lady

How are these tools presented to the work on a metal lathe? In a similar way? Or just the point? What is their usual angle of attack? (has this been discussed somewhere else? )

It is my understanding from talking to Craig, that these carbide inserts are designed to cut wood, they are NOT just some metal worker inserts, bolted on to the end of a square shaft.

The similar kind of metal working carbide inserts are presented, IIRC flat and at the very centerline of the piece to be turned. Sometimes a corner is used, depending on what you wish to do.

Cheers!

Yup.

The tips for the Ci1 seem to be sharper than the ones I've seen for metalwork.

Sharpness is one thing, design is another. A square is a square, The only variable could be the bevel angle, but even for cutting wood we use various angles. I fail to see what "designed to cut wood" means, pardon my lack of acumen.

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

The only variable could be the bevel angle, but even for cutting wood we use various angles. I fail to see what "designed to cut wood" means, pardon my lack of acumen.

Hi,

My name is Billy and I work for Craig at Easy Wood Tools as our Director of Operations. We do get questions regarding the carbide cutters being the same as metal working inserts, and I can assure you that all carbide was not created equal. Essentially it all comes down to the tungsten to cobalt binder ratio. The more tungsten you have, the harder the insert, but less keen of an edge you can attain. For metal working you need a much higher tungsten:cobalt ratio, as a razors edge is unnecessary to cut metal but it must be as hard as possible to prolong the cutter life. We've opted for a balance that gives us a keener cutting edge that is capable of severing the wood fibers much more cleanly than a standard metal working carbide cutter could ever dream of. I hope this may help shed some light on things.

That makes sense.