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Thread: Coupla big posts WIP.
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24th February 2011, 05:41 PM #1Retired
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Coupla big posts WIP.
I was contacted by Jim Carroll who wanted some big gate posts to make a statement.
Perhaps he is opening a winery now?
After going through my pile of phone poles and logs we decided on an Ironbark pole that had been up since 1935.
The dimensions were 250mm diameter by 2900mm long.
The drawing.
Attachment 162431
It must have been a post on a corner because it had that many nails in it you could start a foundry.
After cutting to length we bought them in and put them on trestles to denail them.
Attachment 162422Attachment 162423
The pole ID plate gives timber type and date of erecting.
Attachment 162424
The next part is centering. We use a disc, a centre punch and a hammer.
This is then marked with a wax crayon.
Attachment 162433
Using block and tackles we then position the blank in the lathe with the biggest (or heaviest end) at the head stock and lock it in.
This is checked and rechecked about 3 times.
Speed and direction of rotation is checked also.
You don't want one of these bouncing off your chest.
Attachment 162434
When all this is done, the slings are released, the piece turned by hand and the tool rest put in place. We try to use a one piece rest as it makes getting flowing lines easier than if you have to move smaller rests all the time but we do use them. See later.
Attachment 162435
When everything is set, anyone within the firing zone is cleared and the lathe started remotely on the right hand side.
Whilst the log is rotating I keep my hand on the switch to shut it down immediately should any thing happen.
If all is good it is switched off and all locks are checked again to make sure that nothing has vibrated loose.
The speed at starting is 320 RPM in this case. Sometimes we have to start at the lowest setting. 57 RPM.
I start to get the log round now by removing the waste.
Attachment 162436Attachment 162437
When the log is close enough to round the speed is increased to 420 RPM.
Attachment 162438
This is the speed it will remain at until finished.
Once it is round I look for the narrowest point ABOVE where it will go in the ground.
I use the Ci1 rougher as a parting tool and get the log perfectly round at that point.
Note the reference point on rest in white. All measurements will be taken from this point. This is the bottom of the post.
Attachment 162439
I then measure this with calipers and note the size. I write this on the tool rest with a white paint pencil.
Attachment 162432 Attachment 162490
Using the calipers and the parting tool I mark out reference sizes about 600mm apart down the log.
The calipers are set about 5mm larger than finished size to allow for smoothing cuts and sanding.
Attachment 162440
Once these are in place we "join the dots" or in this case the grooves to get the post down to size.
Once we have that done, the lathe is stopped and I run the calipers over the whole post marking high spots with a crayon.
Attachment 162442
We start the lathe up again and take them out with smoothing cuts using a large gouge.
Attachment 162443
This is the difference between a roughing cut on the left with a smoothing cut on the right.
Attachment 162444
One parallel log ready to mark out.
Attachment 162446
If we don't have actual dimensions to work to (it happens a lot) I use experience and the drawing to get the balance right on the post. You have to remember that a post looks totally different vertical than horizontal.
After I have penciled in the lines at the details I sometimes stand on the lathe or turn my head sideways to envisage what it will look like standing up.
I then mark the tool rest with that white marker and write what the detail is. It is easy to put a cove in where a bead should be. Disastrous is the best description.
That way you end up with 2 reference points after the 1st one.
Attachment 162497
I then mark the post with a skew chisel. I do this for a couple of reasons. It gives a visual reference that something goes there and when you have to part in there is no tearout at the edges so keeping them sharp.
Attachment 162447Attachment 162448
If the post has enough bulk I will part out where the coves are going next. On smaller diameters I will do the beads first to keep the strength in the post until the last moment.
Attachment 162448Attachment 162455
I use a long and strong detail gouge (old style) for doing the coves.
Attachment 162457
With the coves done I cut the beads next with a traditional spindle gouge ground to a thumb nail shape.
Attachment 162462Attachment 162463
With the coves and adjoining beads done I clean up the fillets with a skew.
Attachment 162458Attachment 162459
With those done I run the taper.
Attachment 162460
Now I move up the post and do the top.
Where the bead meets the straight cylinder it is too tight to get a gouge or skew chisel in so we resort to something else.
We start the cut with a normal gouge but finish with a narrow detail gouge with a lady finger grind on it.
Attachment 162461
Getting near the end now. You will note that I have not reduced the post in size any more than necessary at the head stock. The old posts that we turn can quite often have cracks that will allow the post to snap out of the drive spur.
Attachment 162464
Again it is an anal clenching moment if that happens not to mention annoying.
If it looks like breaking we can put a steady in to support the post while we hasten slowly.
At about this point we sand the post starting with an angle grinder and in this case hand sanding to 150# as these are being painted.
Attachment 162465Attachment 162466
After sanding, the long rest is slid to one side and a small rest used to get in close to the final part. This is turned and sanded.
Attachment 162467
The first one done.
Whist working we sharpen the chisels about every minute. The grinders are not switched off.
Attachment 162430
Round 2
Next post in.
Attachment 162468
Normally we put the completed post behind as a pattern and reference for turning the next so that we can get curves and details the same.
Because it is so big we have to have it overhead.
Attachment 162469
And so it begins again.
Sorry about being so long.
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24th February 2011 05:41 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th February 2011, 11:14 PM #2
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24th February 2011, 11:32 PM #3
Great job (&TL), would love to make me one of those mini lathes. First I'll have to get a bigger shed. Great WIP.
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25th February 2011, 06:35 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Very nice tutorial, which also translates to those of us who do smaller work.
Tea Lady, please wear a mask when sanding. Fine dust in the lungs is not good for you.
I have not done this a few times - "oh just a quick sand, the exhaust fan is on", and paid with several days of coughing and occasional upper respiratory infection.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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25th February 2011, 07:03 AM #5
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25th February 2011, 09:13 AM #6
Nice WIP
That's a hell of an intimidating lump hanging over the lathe second time around! How long did each post take?
Can we get some pics of them installed?
Cheers,
Dave
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25th February 2011, 09:34 AM #7
Thanks
I see you were given very detailed blueprints at the beginning
And I agree with Paul's comments on the maskregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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25th February 2011, 09:51 AM #8Hewer of wood
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Awesome work.
Cheers, Ern
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25th February 2011, 10:05 AM #9Senior Member
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Hello and TL,
Do we get to see those monsters tomorro? What input was there from Jim, with a bit of imagination he should have been able to do this sort of job on his "stubby".
BR Joevan.
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25th February 2011, 10:07 AM #10
io! What about a dust mask while sanding??????
Trust some bugger to pick on something.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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25th February 2011, 11:02 AM #11Retired
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- Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
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Tell Jim he'd be better off with an orator then. He does a good job on his own.
Did TL get her jeans caught in the lathe again? No the dust extractors are the cause of that.
Fantastic work there .
About 2 1/2-3 hours. Jim will probably take some.
These are detailed compared to some we get.
Yes Joe. The drawing.
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25th February 2011, 11:05 AM #12Retired
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- Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
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Thank you everyone for the comments.
Twins!!!
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25th February 2011, 12:57 PM #13Senior Member
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Cool !
Thanks for posting
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25th February 2011, 02:29 PM #14Senior Member
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In a word
AWESOME !
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25th February 2011, 04:00 PM #15
Great work & TL
Is Jim taking them home on the roof rack??Russell (aka Mulgabill)
"It is as it is"
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